w201 ac reseal and recharge

[JamesDean]

hello everyone,

I had my ac recharged last year and well it leaked out. So I might go reseal the system myself. It doesnt seem to terrible (at least in my mind)

I'd get a new dryer and expansion valve.

Seals at the:
condenser lines
dryer lines
expansion valve
compressor connections

I dont imagine some of these being too difficult. The expansion valve might be more difficult.

Am I missing anything?

[slk230red]

The expansion valve is easy to get to so that shouldn't be a problem, but the compressor connections might be.

Are you using R12 or 134a?

[JamesDean]

Not to spark a R12 vs R134a discussion...

When I first got the car, I had it charged with R12. That leaked out about two years later.

So I had another shop charge it up and t hey used Freeze12 and that leaked out within a year. It was pretty cheap to charge up compared to the R12 @ the time....

So, after I reseal it. I'd probably use R12 direct.


Hit Man X, directed me to this kit, which is both R12 and R134a:
https://www.ackits.com/pc/CP3025/vehiclespecific/CP3025+-+1989+%26+Prior+European+Import+System+O-ring+Kit

[JamesDean]

Parts List:

1408300484 - Expansion Valve - $26.97
2018300083 - Dryer/Accumulator - $23.26
AC Seal Kit - R12/R134a Comp - $10.00

Should I pickup new switches for the dryer too? They're not pricey around $15-17/each.

[slk230red]

Originally Posted by JamesDean

Parts List:

Should I pickup new switches for the dryer too? They're not pricey around $15-17/each.

That's your call....I don't think you need to replace them, but for peace of mind it might be good idea.

[Matt L]

You should not assume that it is leaking at a seal.

[JamesDean]

Originally Posted by Matt L

You should not assume that it is leaking at a seal.

what would you recommend that I do/assume?
The chassis has 220k on it.

[Matt L]

Originally Posted by JamesDean

what would you recommend that I do/assume?
The chassis has 220k on it.

You should give it a sniff test, or take it to someone else for it. If it's charged with pure refrigerant for the test, that refrigerant must be reclaimed. You can dump the charge into the atmosphere if you use 4oz of R22 and nitrogen to pressurize the system.

It's illegal to charge a system that is leaking, unless you attempt to find and fix the leaks. Perhaps more personally important to you, there's no need to be wasting R12.

[JamesDean]

Perhaps, after replacing the seals, I should charge it with the Freeze12 rather than waste R12?

What is this sniff test? What does one sniff and what smell is one expecting?

As far as I can tell none of the lines are rusted/breached. All still shiny metal.

[slk230red]

You never stated if you found what was causing the leak. It could be the evaporator, condensor, hoses, O-ring, etc.
After you vacuum the system it should hold vacuum.
Yes, a sniff test would be a good idea.

[JamesDean]

hm I did just assume that it was seal related. You're right it could be one of the larger parts.

[Matt L]

It would be best to try to find out where it is leaking before you take anything apart. The sniffing isn't with your nose; it is with a refrigerant detector. These aren't extremely expensive, but expensive enough that most people won't want to own one. Note that you use a different detector for hydrocarbons than you use for normal refrigerants.

Replacing seals isn't a bad idea if they need it, but you should flush out the parts and lines if you're going to disconnect them.