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#1
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NEED SOME QUICK ADVISE!!! Stuck door panel.....
I'm trying to remove my left rear door panel ON 1994 E420 to fix the window but can't get the panel off. I have removed everything else but the panel won't budge. And yes, I'm pulling UP!! NEED SOME QUICK ADVISE!!
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1973 280 - Sold 1980 300SD - Sold 1982 240D - Stolen 1988 300E - Sold 1989 260E - Sold 1989 560SEL 1994 E420 - Sold 1997 E420 2005 CL500 |
#2
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You need to release the door panel at the top edge first. You may have to pry it up so use something that won't damage the door panel.
FWIW, for some reason first time removal of rear 124 door panels are a real pain.
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Scott Diener 89 300E 93 300E 92 Volvo 740 Wagon aka "Mutt mover" |
#3
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Read the "Door Check Strap Replacement" instructions in the D.I.Y. section at the top of the page. Make sure you have everything removed, like the thing that surrounds the strike door latch. I nearly forgot to remove it Sunday night when working on my door speaker.
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#4
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Thanks for the advise. Any suggestions as to what I should use to pry the top edge off? Is it best to do this with the window down and pry it up from the outside of the door? Do I need to remove the wood trim to get the door panel off?
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1973 280 - Sold 1980 300SD - Sold 1982 240D - Stolen 1988 300E - Sold 1989 260E - Sold 1989 560SEL 1994 E420 - Sold 1997 E420 2005 CL500 |
#5
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Try lifting up from the rear edge toward the front. The weather strip goes with the door panel. There are metal clips (3 or 4) holding it in place. Keep track of them, they're known to disappear prior to reinstallation.
If you have a puddle light at the bottom of the door, you'll have to unplug it from inside the door panel after the panel is detached but before you can set it aside. |
#6
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No you don't need to remove the wood panel...
The window switch/door handle plastic needs to be dislodged from the panel. There is also a 10mm bolt that holds the top of the door pull to the door shell. Assuming here that you have removed the black plastic panel on the top of the door pull and unbolted this. The top of the door panel is held onto the window sill with several (three or four) anodized spring clips...these will go flying when you get the top of the panel dislodged fron the window sill. The window can remain up when removing the panel...recommended as fewer parts are lost that way. Install is easier with the window down however... Also, you removed the philips screw that holds the door jamb trim piece to the panel?
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2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle 2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car 2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver 2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car |
#7
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Thanks guys....I'll take some digital pics for others use and let you know how it goes.
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1973 280 - Sold 1980 300SD - Sold 1982 240D - Stolen 1988 300E - Sold 1989 260E - Sold 1989 560SEL 1994 E420 - Sold 1997 E420 2005 CL500 |
#8
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Ok.....I got the panel off. How do I determine what is wrong and why my window won't close? What should I see or not see happening?
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1973 280 - Sold 1980 300SD - Sold 1982 240D - Stolen 1988 300E - Sold 1989 260E - Sold 1989 560SEL 1994 E420 - Sold 1997 E420 2005 CL500 |
#9
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Alan, what are your window's symptoms? Goes down but not up? Doesn't respond to switch at all? Act like it has jumped the track?
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#10
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The motor is working fine. The window does go up and down but stops short of closing by about an inch. Also, when it goes down it makes a clunking sound.
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1973 280 - Sold 1980 300SD - Sold 1982 240D - Stolen 1988 300E - Sold 1989 260E - Sold 1989 560SEL 1994 E420 - Sold 1997 E420 2005 CL500 |
#11
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Most likely, if you look at the metal track that the window glass sits on, there track rides on a plastic-and-metal pivot piece that is attached to the cable. It has probably separated...
If so, it will cause the cable to bind on the upward travel (gravity assists on the way dowm). If this is the case, you can obtain the replacement part for about 2 or 3 dollars. Not sure of the source as I ended up replacing the entire assemblies on both of my rear windows when it happened to me...
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2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle 2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car 2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver 2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car |
#12
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Does anyone have an idea where I can buy the small pieces that are mentioned above??
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1973 280 - Sold 1980 300SD - Sold 1982 240D - Stolen 1988 300E - Sold 1989 260E - Sold 1989 560SEL 1994 E420 - Sold 1997 E420 2005 CL500 |
#13
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Could this be what you need? You may have to get in there to find out what is broken.
http://www.performancemotorcars.com/catalog_f.php?l=year-make.jsp&partner=pmc&make=MB |
#14
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The metal-backed plastic piece has separated as G-Benz said. The plastic rotates around on the pin and causes the window to "hang" from the cable. You need to rotate the plastic piece back into position, drill a little hole and put a sheet metal screw in it to keep it from rotating again.
This probably makes sense to someone who has done it, and I hope it helps when you dig into it and see the parts for yourself.
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D.H. 04 ML500 02 E430 Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it. |
#15
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Thanks for the tips! I just successfully replaced the right rear window regulator in my 300D! I think the hardest part was removing the door panel!
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-------------------------------------------- 1960 MB 190Db w/ full sunroof 1985 Toyota Pickup 2006 Honda Odyssey EXL R&N 2001 VW Jetta GLS TDI |
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