spring compressor

[rsmartin]

Why is the official Mercedes spring compressor over $500? Why can't one use the ones that cost 1/10 of the price?

[Christine in FL]

Because they either won't fit, don't provide enough travel or they are simply not safe for the application. You can however, rent a Klann or a knock-off copy of one from several places (including a few members on this site) for a reasonable fee. Spring compressors are one tool that you should NOT compromise on. The penalty for doing so is often serious injury or death.

Christine

[Billybob]

Originally Posted by rsmartin

Why is the official Mercedes spring compressor over $500? Why can't one use the ones that cost 1/10 of the price?

Does the $50 spring compressor work on Mercedes springs?

[rsmartin]

does the spring have to come out to change upper control arms?

[Billybob]

Originally Posted by rsmartin

does the spring have to come out to change upper control arms?

123 or 126 chassis, no!

[ashedd]

e-bay has several "Mercedes" spring compressors. I think I paid $200 for mine... works great and is quite stout.

[rsmartin]

but it does for lower ball joints right? on 86 560SEL

[Billybob]

Originally Posted by rsmartin

but it does for lower ball joints right? on 86 560SEL

On the 123 and 126 chassis the shock holds the spring in place by preventing the LCA from moving. To be safe it wouldn't be a bad idea to use something to prevent the spring from escaping "if" the shock or its fasteners failed for some reason. If you're going to replace the lower ball joint the vehicle can be positioned so that the chassis is supported off the ground and a jack or stand can support the LCA when the spindle is removed to replace the ball joint.

[rsmartin]

great. thanks for clearing up that i don't need to worry about removing the spring for doing either lower ball joint or upper control arms

replaced tie rod ends so far. i just used a two hook gear puller to separate the tie rod ends. why do people try to use a pickle fork or bfh on them when a gear puller works so easy?

have to do idler arm bearing/bushing next. then track rod mounts, which I thought I had replaced a couple years ago, but at least on the drivers side it's bad. can see it move in and out when some one moves the car back and forth with the brake on. at least i know what the crunching sound under my left foot is from! but frustrating that it wore out so quickly. also had lower ball joints replaced, but boot is torn on both of them. car only has 91K on it but time is the enemy i guess. 86 560SEL

[hookedon210s]

OE ball joints are tough to remove from the LCA while the LCA is in the vehicle since they are pressed out from the bottom of the LCA and can be a very tight interference fit. However, since yours have already been replaced maybe they won't be as difficult. Also, depending on brand of replacement ball joint without the special tool (about $400 now) they are next to impossible to install properly. Mark

[Billybob]

Originally Posted by hookedon210s

OE ball joints are tough to remove from the LCA while the LCA is in the vehicle since they are pressed out from the bottom of the LCA and can be a very tight interference fit. However, since yours have already been replaced maybe they won't be as difficult. Also, depending on brand of replacement ball joint without the special tool (about $400 now) they are next to impossible to install properly. Mark

On the 116/123/126 chassis cars the lower ball joint is located in the spindle, the lower ball joint's stud on its top side attachs to the LCA. To replace the lower ball joint the entire spindle is removed from the car after seperating and disconnecting the upper ball joint and then seperating the lower ball joint from the LCA, then the ball joint can be removed from the spindle usually with it secured in a vice and beat out with a hammer and drift. The new ball joint is then pressed into the spindle.

[hookedon210s]

On the 116/123/126 chassis cars the lower ball joint is located in the spindle,

You're correct---brain fart. I remember standing on the workbench and pounding the ball joint out of the spindle on a Euro 450 with an 8 lb. sledge and suitable socket. What do you do about installing the new ball joint without the special tool since you don't have 360 degree access to press the new ball joint into the spindle? Mark

[Billybob]

Originally Posted by hookedon210s

You're correct---brain fart. I remember standing on the workbench and pounding the ball joint out of the spindle on a Euro 450 with an 8 lb. sledge and suitable socket. What do you do about installing the new ball joint without the special tool since you don't have 360 degree access to press the new ball joint into the spindle? Mark

Well there are a couple alternatives:

There is a tool that can be bought for about $125 that allows the ball joint to be pressed in using an H frame press

Some people make use of an AutoZone rental press (I believe this press is likely to damage the ball joint's socket because the force is directed onto the top section of the socket and not the outside ring designed to accept the force)

Pull the entire spindle and find a shop that can get the job done

Or last but not least, rent the factory tool and do the job according to the FSM! I strongly recommend this approach if you want the job done right!

P. S. although it could appear this to be a shameless plug as my factory tool is available in the tool rental section! But seriously having the tool designed to do the job makes it easier, quicker, and less stressful all around. I usually rent the ball joint installation tool, and two ball joint separator tools, one for the upper ball joint (this joint almost any method will easily separate) and the factory separator tool to disconnect the lower ball joint's stud from the spindle (this part of the procedure takes a minute or two with the correct tool and can be a real ball buster taking an pickle forks with one tine shortened, many hammer blows that can't be landed, giant leverage that can move the car off the stands! and lots of swearing an frustration!)