Hi,

I have changed my sparkplugs many times. Last year I installed a new set of bosch sparkplug wires. Removing the wire/boot was a breeze with the old set but one pain on the neck with the new set.

Two months ago or so I was able to remove the first three sparkplug boots (300E) damaged the third boot when trying to remove it. (Basically the inner plastic was so stuck to the plug that when pulled out the plastic came outward from the metal casing.

After that happened I was so bummed out that I didn't try changing the other three plugs.

Below is a picture of my sparkplug boot metal casings.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/512BTSYC70L._SS500_.jpg

Any suggestions on how to go about loosening them up? I need to finish the job and replace the other three sparkplugs as the car is starting to run rough, changing the first three plugs actually help but I definetely need to replace the last three.

I read somewhere else that applying some WD40 externally may soften the boot plastic and make it easier to remove. Seems like it can be a challenge since the boot is inside the metal jacket. - Any other suggestions, Any idea of what tool may work with this specific issue?

Thanks

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89 300E - 240k +

Can only tell you how to prevent it unfortunately. Can you make a tool to pull it away at the bottom?

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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra

300E, don't know of any tool that will help with your stuck spark plug boots. Try turning each stuck boot before attempting to pull it off. In the future apply a light coating of dielectric grease to the inside of the boot before installation.

Prefer Beru spark plug wires over Bosch.

__________________
Fred Hoelzle

I use a special pliers, makes it very easy.

Rob

Prevention:
Apply Dielectric Spark Plug, Boot And Connector Grease when installing spark plug wires..
http://www.google.com/images?um=1&hl=en&safe=off&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&tbs=isch:1&btnG=Search&aq=f&aqi=&oq=&gs_rfai=&q=Dielectric%20Spark%20Plug%20Boot%20And%20Connector%20Grease




.

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Those pliers look interesting, something from a James Bond movie?
I have tried several types of pullers, but couldn't get them down the plug hole far enough - those might do it though.

Over the years I have learned to warm the engine up a bit before pulling on the boots, this seems to help a lot. Same with removing stuck threads on the plugs, they seem to come out easier when warm.
Best way I found to pull on them is grab the metal part by hand and pull/push in a very straight line. The pushing-back motion seems to help loosen them up, sorta rocking them in-out.

But, get that dialectric grease on them next time.

Oh, you do know that the wires just unscrew from the boots, at least on the original wire sets. If you break a boot, and have an old spare, you can screw the new wire right into the old boot.

DG

http://www.google.com/images?q=spark%20plug%20boot%20puller&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1&rlz=&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi

http://www.google.com/images?q=spark%20plug%20boot%20pliers&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1&rlz=&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi

http://www.google.com/images?q=spark%20plug%20boot%20removal%20tool&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1&rlz=&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi

http://www.google.com/images?q=spark%20plug%20boot%20tool&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1&rlz=&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi

Holy Cow Hunter - makes my teeth hurt.

DG

Thank you, I was able to remove the rest of the spark plug wires with 45deg pliers, barely using the tips to grasp the boot and twist a little. I used the grease when I first installed the cable set but I suspect when the test only (smog) shop worked on the car some months later, they might (or perhaps I did not put enough grease) not have added some - hard to tell.

One thing I noticed when I was able work on the remainder sparkplugs is that the one cable that had the inner plastic sticking out, seems to not have been making full contact with the spark plug.. upon removing that cable again... I noticed there was white dust around the inner metal casing, the top of the sparkplug and the inner porcelain? connector of the cable? the inner plastic slipped off as well.

I believe there must have been some arcing happening inside. Trimmed one end portion of the inner plastic sleve so It would fit since the length had increased due to it being streched and wrapped the metal boot externally with electrical tape (in case it was arcing externally).

Car has been running rough since then, I suspect a new cable set is needed. (granted the car has other issues too being 230k+)

I obviously need a new cable.. whichs means new set. Is there a way to test if I may need a new distributor cap? and how hard is it to take off? lengthy process? I now live on an apartment and cannot take too long fixing a car per se, also extremely living on a very tight budget so I must try to test and be sure before replacing any part.

Thanks

__________________
89 300E - 240k +

think, remove the black cover to access the distributor cap. Use an allen wrench to remove the distributor cap and inspect the condition of the terminals inside the cap and the distributor rotor arm too. Both are wear items that should be replaced every 30,000 miles. At a minimum clean any deposits off the distributor cap terminals and the distributor rotor arm before reassembly.

It will be easier to clean up the distributor rotor if you remove the 3 allen head cap screws, and lightly filing the rotor arm.

__________________
Fred Hoelzle

I use them myself. There is however, a purpose-made MB factory special tool for pulling the boots. I looks like an open end wrench with a bend at the business end. You work it under the boot end and lift or pry up to pop the boot off. Sorry, I don't have a picture of it but I'm sure someone does. Check the "TOOLS" catalog on this site.

If you have aluminum cylinder head, be careful about unscrewing the spark plugs while the engine is too warm.

That tool is a Hazet 2771 Valve Adj. Wrench (MB Part No. 110-589-01-01-00). It is essentially a 17mm open end wrench with a slight offset on the handle. The wrench engages the last ridge on the boot and with a prying action pulls it straight off. It works great on the M112 where there is little clearance for a pair of 'boot pliers'. Not sure if it's applicable to other engines.

The ignition wire set is not original, I purchased it at Napa auto parts (BOSCH) #09146 - and I didn't know about the boot being replaceable.

Looking at the shop here, it seems they do sell just the sparkplug connector - http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1631473&itempk=77570&mfr=Bosch&weight=0.12 - perhaps I can just buy this, instead of the whole set. hmmm

__________________
89 300E - 240k +

That is a good option if the wire is not damaged.

I am going to replace the whole wire set (even If I could just replace one boot), just to rule that out, and also install a new set of sparkplugs. (New BOSCH #09146 and a set of H9DC0 sparkplugs - sparkplugs I have been using all these years).

I may not check the distributor cap just yet (mainly because I will be replacing the wireset away from home and dealer (since that process will take me at least 1 or 2 hours).

I figure once I replace wireset/new plugs, I can see how the car runs, and proceed to check the distributor cap/rotor if it still runs rough.

My issue right now is the car has trouble starting (need to press gas as soon as it starts otherwise it dies) but once its warm, it starts just fine. There are days when the car starts and if I am not quick to press gas, or press too much car dies and then it wont start at all, but the next day car usually starts - (cold weather may also be playing a part) --

Note: Most days I hardly drive the car, so now I am trying to warm up the car everyday regardless of me needing to drive it or not - and so far so good - Tue it didnt start, but wed/thu/fri it did.)

Backtracking for some historical info...
On Dec 24 night, I ran almost out of gas (I think this added to the trouble), and in the past two weeks or so I added some seafoam to the gas tank (about 75% of can to 3/4 of a gas tank). Still on that tank. Tomorrow's trip to my family place should give it some sustain 55-60mph drive.. a chance for the seafoam / gas tank to run its remainder got 1/4 of tank left. Banking on this too to help.



RE: dist cap
Right now, I am afraid to remove the distributor cap since I will be doing the work away from the dealer - figured once the cables are replaced.. if car still runs rough, has trouble starting.. then I can check the dist cap at home, (will probably not take as long to remove the wires at that end.. and remove the cap to check it (I could probably get away with doing that in my apt parking spot).




How do you remove the black plastic cover? I am looking at 15-3010, I guess the black plastic cover is called the screening cap. I see two top allen screws.. but do not know where the bottom screw located at?

Is the screening cap and distributor cap held by the same three screws? (I guess so).

Does anybody know the size of the three external (screening cap) socket screws? and the size of the ones that hold the rotor?

Do you suggest I buy the follower (Is this the part where the rotor attaches to)? is the follower also attached by a screw to the camshaft?

Also, the sealing washer and o-ring.. does that go bad, should I also purchase those?

Since I have not replaced / removed the dist cap, I am afraid I may pull it apart and maybe something will break (maybe I just worry too much) but just want to be as safe as possible (If I do proceed with this).

Overall, the goal here is that the car needs to be smog, but if the car starts /runs better without touching the dist cap, then I would just leave as is for the time being.

In general I do not drive the car much, maybe 3-4k this last year, mainly short trips to the grocery store and a few longer trips to the next town maybe once a month. Car has been mostly parked.. which I figure may actually not be helping it.

__________________
89 300E - 240k +