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#1
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2003 BMW 745i E65 Master Combo Driver Door Issues (I realize this is not a BMW site)
Good morning all,
I am having some issues after replacing the window regulator on my E65. The following post I placed on the Bimmerfest site and I am not getting the help I need. It is my hope that someone can shed some light on my issue. While assembling the door panel I connected the combination switch on the driver's door. It's the switch that controls the windows, mirrors, and child proof locks. None of the functions of the combo switch are working. The child proof locks doesn't light up or engage. When operating the windows from each other door, the windows function as they should. I also noticed that the courtesy light on the bottom of the door is on and working. The same electrical connection powers both items. Because the courtesy light is working and the combo switch doesn't have power, it leads me to ask if there is a fuse to power the switch? Which fuse and where is it located? What other items should I look into? I'm open to all suggestions. Is there a trick to getting the outer door panel to hook I'm the clips along the top of the door? Last evening I decided to check on fuses that may be related to the window issues. I checked the glove box #19 and #21 fuses. Both fuses appears to be in good working order. I changed the #19 fuse just for good measure. After changing and checking the aforementioned fuses. I have to connect the driver door panel master switch to see if it works today. I did notice that with the driver side master switch not connected, the two rear door windows did not work. Is there a sequence that is required for all of the windows to work? I did attempt to operate each window for it's door and not the master switch. The front window does function independently. Is there something I'm missing or need to be aware of? When it was working last week, all windows work both independently and from the master switch. It only stopped once I reconnected and the cables. I checked the fuses in the trunk last night and both the fuses #58 and #60 to the RH door are in good working order. Can any assist me in identifying the problem? Thanks Ron
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![]() Last edited by ron59b; 07-25-2017 at 04:42 PM. |
#2
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If you had a wiring diagram some help could be offered.
Generally, power windows that don't run through a body computer / window module run power for all windows to the drivers switch. No power to the drivers SW, no power to the other SW in the car. |
#3
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Thank you for your feedback.
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#4
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To expand on this, if the drivers SW is unplugged, power won't be fed to the other windows.
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#5
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Got it!!! what is a way that I can check to see if the problem is the master switch vs. wiring?
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#6
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I'd need to see a wiring diagram to go any farther.
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#7
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Good Morning
Here is a copy of the door module that I located. Let me know if you need more. Thanks for your assistance thus far. Ron
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#8
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You are going to need the factory diagnostic tree and a scan tool ( if the system can be read by scan ) . This system is full electronic not discrete wires running from a SW to motor. It also monitors motor speed / position by using hall effect sensors at 90* to each other. ( quadrature with a A and B channel )
I wonder if there is a relearn procedure you need to do. On Mercedes key on / run window full down / let go of button / run window full up to stall and hold button for a few seconds. When system sees command for up and stopped motion, it considers this the " home " position. From what I can make of the descriptions. P-BUSF = MIGHT BE A COMMUNICATION BUS GNDFA = GROUND ? ENHALLF = SOMETHING CONNECTED TO THE HALL EFFECT SENSORS, MIGHT BE POWER / GND PWMF1 = PULSE WIDTH MODULATION , THIS IS EITHER A SIGNAL LEAVING OR GOING TO THE MODULE. PWMF2 = PULSE WIDTH MODULATION , THIS IS EITHER A SIGNAL LEAVING OR GOING TO THE MODULE. VMOTF1 / VMOTF2 MOTOR VOLTAGE IN EACH DIRECTION? MFFA30 = POWER ? MFFA31 = GROUND ? HALLF1 , HALLF2 = OUTPUT FROM MOTOR HALL EFFECT SENSORS. |
#9
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I would tackle this with a multimeter and trace the fault. See if the switch is getting power and if the grounds are good. Trace your way back to the battery if you need to.
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Follow the team at: http://www.forthesakeof.racing/ https://www.facebook.com/ForTheSakeOfRacing/ Current: '74 450SLC '89 190E '95 E420 Previous: '94 E320 '87 300E '73 350SL '75 450SL '95 C36 '99 C43 55 swap |
#10
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Thank you, I'll start chipping away at it.
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#11
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Go to Bimmerforums. They have some experts over there.
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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine) 1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow) Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra |
#12
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Thank you for your recommendation.
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![]() Last edited by ron59b; 08-08-2017 at 09:55 PM. |
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