M110 280CE Valve Adjusting - Any Pointers?

[Squabble]

hey all, i'm planning on adjusting the valves of my 280CE this weekend. i've got about three days to get it done so i've got plenty of time to mess up and get it right...

i've done valve adjusting on turbo diesels before, is this anything like that? do i absolutely NEED to buy the special/bent wrenches?

i've got this to go by: http://mercedes.thatchermathias.com/w123CD1/Program/Engine/110/05-210.pdf

in Step 1, it says to "remove rubber seals." what are they referring to?

is there anything else i should purchase to replace if need be while i'm in there?

can i turn the engine with the power steering pump? do i need to remove the spark plugs if/when i do this? can i use a crescent wrench instead as i'm pretty sure i don't have a 27mm socket?

thanks for the help, i really appreciate it!

[duxthe1]

I think "rubber seals" may have been a typo, it happens especially when translating from German. I do not think there is anything special that is being referred to. I do think that the special crowsfoot wrenches will make the job 100 times easier but you may be able to pull it off without them. Some sort of crowsfoot will be better than nothing.

[teezer]

get the special wrench !!! it is so easy to do with it

the rubber seals should be part of a valve cover kit, they fit between the valve cover and head, around the spark plug valleys

engine turns over easier with the spark plugs out

[280EZRider]

There is only 1 adjustment wrench needed. If you want to do it the cheap way, you can heat up a 17mm open end wrench - the head needs to be slightly thinner than most - and put a 45 degree bend right where the head starts from the handle, and then drop it into a container of old oil to restore the temper.

However once you have used the clawfoot socket, you'll never go back to the open end wrench. The adjusting nuts are quite tight as there is no locking nut, so the socket makes the job much easier and since valve adjustment needs to done every 12,500 miles, the cost of the socket is more than worth it.

You will most likely have to remove the spring clips (#1 in your diagram) to allow room to put the wrench onto the adjusting nut. When reinstalling them, much sure they are COMPLETELY ON.

Definitely remove the plugs. You can use the PS pump to turn the engine, but you will have to remove the charcol canister and windshield-washer reservior for room. Turning the engine at the crank bolt (27mm) is much easier on you and the PS pump.

If the rubber seals are still soft, they can be reused, but the VC gasket and crush washers should be replaced.

And as long as the VC is off, you can check timing-chain stretch.

Turn the engine CLOCKWISE only! Clockwise as you face the engine from the front of the car.

[Squabble]

Originally Posted by 280EZRider

If the rubber seals are still soft, they can be reused, but the VC gasket and crush washers should be replaced.

what rubber seals are you referring to? the triangular ones around the plugs?

do you have any info on the size of the crush washers or a source for them? is this just a Lowes/Napa shelf item? i think they might have been included in my VC gasket set... i'll have to look again.

Originally Posted by 280EZRider

And as long as the VC is off, you can check timing-chain stretch.

got any info on how to check that?

thanks for all the help!

[280EZRider]

Originally Posted by Squabble

what rubber seals are you referring to? the triangular ones around the plugs?

do you have any info on the size of the crush washers or a source for them? is this just a Lowes/Napa shelf item? i think they might have been included in my VC gasket set... i'll have to look again.



got any info on how to check that?

thanks for all the help!

Yes. The rubber seals can be removed after the VC is removed.

If you get the VC gasket and seals in a kit, the washers will be included. I don't know if they come with just the VC gasket alone, but if they don't they can be easily matched up to copper washers at any good parts store.

Facing the engine, there is a mark on the right cam gear and the front cam tower. Line up the two and check the reference point against the harmonic balancer on the crank. If the reading is extremely far off, then your are opposite TDC. Turn the engine another rotation, line up the cam marks and again check the timimg of the harmonic balancer. As long as you have no more than + - 4 degrees off TDC, the chain stretch in fine. Keep in mind this is not the most accurate way to check chain stretch, but it gives you a good idea of the condition of the chain.