Climate control temperature wheel tape replacement

[donbryce]

Background: I searched around EBay and web suppliers for a fresh tape to replace my temperature wheel temp indicator, and ended up getting one from the dealer for <$10.00. That was 2 years ago. I finally installed it yesterday, so thought a quick post on the how-to might interest some of you.

First steps are to follow the manual and remove the ash tray and radio. Then, 2 screws underneath where the radio cage is will allow detaching the wood panel covering the controller unit. The wood panel is pulled out at the bottom, to clear the climate control buttons, then pulled down to release from the groove in the consol at the top.

At this point, have patience and unplug all of the switches (my 380SE has 5) mounted on the wood panel, above the controller. Note the fibreglass button lighting cables that go into the switches, as forgetting to replace one is very annoying at night.

Now, the wood panel with all switches can be removed, exposing the climate control unit. This is held in place with 2 8mm bolts that have nuts in a sliding capture-cage (for adjustment). Before loosening these to remove the control unit, paint around the bracket/bolt-head and on the top of the control mounting part with whiteout (correction fluid). This will help a lot later to replace the control unit in the same position just before you place the wood panel.

Loosten the 2 bolts and carefully slide the unit forward, CAREFULLY pry out the bulb holders that illuminate the switch buttons. Now is a good time to check all bulbs and replace as needed. Mine had 2 blown, and I broke one taking the holder out. BTW, if you do break a tab, use hot-glue to resecure the bulb/holder in the socket. It's quick setting and you can continue the job without waiting.....

After unplugging the 2 plugs at the sides , you can now remove the unit. On the bench, unclip the temperature wheel unit from the main body. Then, put dabs of whiteout on the side of the wheel and the housing so later alignment is easy. Turn the wheel to minimum setting (or max) and unclip the circuit board from the wheel housing. Don't lose the little ball bearing that sits on the side of the wheel! Be careful not to disturb the position of the reostat soldered to the board either, so re-fitting into the indent in the wheel at assembly will be easy (that's why you set the unit to min or max, at full travel position).

Now you can peel off the tape and replace it on the wheel. I cleaned up the contact surface on the board with radio contact cleaner, and the little copper feet (3) in the wheel that slide over it. I put a tiny dab of dielectic grease on each of the 3 little feet too, and on the ball bearing.

Re-assemble the wheel unit and check for smooth operation. Note: be especially careful that the tiny tang on the reostat (attached to the circuit board) fits into the recess on the side of the wheel. The whiteout dabs help a lot to ensure this is easy. Re-attach the wheel unit to the main housing.

From here, it's a matter of assembly being the reverse of removal.

Hope this was of interest. Sorry I didn't take any pictures.