Brake Pedal Lacks Firmness. Not sure what next to do... - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JamesDean · #31 11-03-2012, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ferdman

Textar brake pads are softer and perform more efficiently than the harder, ceramic Akebono brake pads. Softer brake pads produce more friction, therefore the car stops faster with the same brake pedal force. MB automobile braking systems are designed with soft brake pads so the braking system functions even if the power assist is unavailable ... for instance, if the engine stalls.

Many owners install Akebono ceramic brake pads to reduce brake pad dust, but reduced braking efficiency occurs also. If there was a suitable alternative to the soft OEM brake pads surely the MB design engineers would specify those instead.

In my long trek through brake pads brands, Textar/Pagid is by far the best responding .

So far my best-to-worst list:

Textar/Pagid
Axxis ULT
.
.
.
.

Akebono

MBeige · #32 11-03-2012, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesDean

In my long trek through brake pads brands, Textar/Pagid is by far the best responding .

So far my best-to-worst list:

Textar/Pagid
Axxis ULT
.
.
.
.

Akebono

Have you confirmed the Akebonos were the culprit?

JamesDean · #33 11-03-2012, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MBeige

Have you confirmed the Akebonos were the culprit?

No not quite yet. But I am a bit premature in that assessment. The car is still at the shop, so maybe next week I'll do more bleeding work on it.

just-n-time · #34 11-08-2012, 11:31 AM

Hi James, I have gone threw your brake trouble and notice that nothing has been said about the equalizer, do you think that it might be slightly stuck to one side? This could cause a turbulence in the fluid flow. My 420 had a brake issue and it turned out to be a piston that would wedge and after some use you could feel a sudden pop in the peddle, but in my case the piston was tight and I had uneven brake pad ware and rapid ware on that pistons pad. Before I replaced the calipers I could not get the air out because of the one piston that had stuck. food for thought , good luck.

tilac1 · #35 11-09-2012, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldsinner111

the only way I can get a firm pedal.Is take a 2X4,and wedge the brake pedal down,and the other end to the seat.Leave it this way overnight.Repeat until pedal is firm.Mercedes are hard to bleed than any car I've had.

I need to try this but need more details. Do you leave the nipples open or closed overnight? I have a Motive power bleeder that works great but I can't seem to get a hard pedal. Using the 2x4, leave it in place while bleeding or not? Thanks.

MBeige · #36 01-27-2013, 04:29 AM

Curious if there was an update? Here's mine I can share:

I bedded-in the Akebonos in the 300D (W123) and 300TE (W124) and been experimenting here and there to see if it will make a difference. Now, my 300D W123 stops with good pedal feedback, quietly but strongly! The 300TE had warped rotors so I could not do a valid experiment until I had them replaced. Since that job was done recently, I test drove the 300TE and I can say it brakes better than before!

JamesDean · #37 01-27-2013, 11:03 AM

A few month ago I swapped out the akebono's for a set of Textars. No difference. I think, maybe my problem is inadequate brake fluid pressure somehow. I bought a 400/500E brake booster. When the weather warms up I'm going to mate it with a 500E master and eliminate the booster/master as a source of the problem.

Maybe after that and a bleed of the system it'll be done with.