Please Help Me Out Here! 1991 190e starts and stalls - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Yaboyma · #1 01-17-2013, 08:36 PM

I have a 1991 190e mercedes benz that I have been trying to work on for a while now. The problem is that it will crank, but only run for about a minute and a half to 2 minutes, idles down, revs back up then shuts off! It does this over and over. I have changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs and spark plug wires and now it runs a minute longer but does the same! Can someone help me out on what to do next?

partsman225 · #2 01-17-2013, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yaboyma

I have a 1991 190e mercedes benz that I have been trying to work on for a while now. The problem is that it will crank, but only run for about a minute and a half to 2 minutes, idles down, revs back up then shuts off! It does this over and over. I have changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs and spark plug wires and now it runs a minute longer but does the same! Can someone help me out on what to do next?

Check the dist. Cap and rotor. I seen the rotor get.erroded away and the center tip on the cap cap be worn or. Burnt.
just check the plugs.see.if they look okay.
From there you need to see.if the lambda is ossilating. On the 91 2.3 L they haves intake manifold heater between the intake where it meets.the head.they have a1 pin connector going to it.make sure your getting voltage to the plug if so ohm out the.heater on the pin to ground.and see what the ohms.are report back with have to look.for.values it shouldn't be shorted nor.sure.to have Mega ohms.

Also has the car.sat.for.a.while? And is the ABS or.antilock light on? Of so you have a bad or.going out over voltage relay.

I.would.check the fuel pressure and differential pressures. If you have a way to check it?

LMK. I'd.like.to help if I can.its.hard when the car.is not.in front of me.

Ivanerrol · #3 01-18-2013, 02:53 AM

Fuel Pump relay. Behind battery.

Yaboyma · #4 01-20-2013, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by partsman225

Check the dist. Cap and rotor. I seen the rotor get.erroded away and the center tip on the cap cap be worn or. Burnt.
just check the plugs.see.if they look okay.
From there you need to see.if the lambda is ossilating. On the 91 2.3 L they haves intake manifold heater between the intake where it meets.the head.they have a1 pin connector going to it.make sure your getting voltage to the plug if so ohm out the.heater on the pin to ground.and see what the ohms.are report back with have to look.for.values it shouldn't be shorted nor.sure.to have Mega ohms.

Also has the car.sat.for.a.while? And is the ABS or.antilock light on? Of so you have a bad or.going out over voltage relay.

I.would.check the fuel pressure and differential pressures. If you have a way to check it?

LMK. I'd.like.to help if I can.its.hard when the car.is not.in front of me.

I will look at what u speak of in the morning..i bought the car a couple days before christmas and yes the owner said the car sat for more than 2 years

Yaboyma · #5 01-20-2013, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ivanerrol

Fuel Pump relay. Behind battery.

I pulled the battery out and looked for it but seen nothing unless its behind a panel or something.. and what does it look like?

pawoSD · #6 01-20-2013, 10:58 PM

They are behind a panel behind the battery. From the description it does sound like a spark issue though. Distributor rotor and cap are first suspects to be checked/replaced from those issues.

partsman225 · #7 01-21-2013, 08:15 AM

I would guess after sitting 2 years. I will most likely need a fuel pump, fuel filter,possible pressure accumulator , unhook both fuel boths fuel lines together and runs the pumps. So that the fuel is getting returned back to the tank you may have to put a battery charger on low also.let run for an hour ..while doing than take all the injectors.out. and lines off the fuel distributor. Blow them blow out all injector lines and injectors some.B-12 will help run them Ito the lines and blow out again.as for the injectors just spray the top of them leaving some B-12 on the top when to blow the compressed air through them.both that a couple.of.times for.each injector. Don't reinstall.lines and injectors just yet. Now you can unbridge the.fuel pump relay and hook both the fuel lines back up..pm bridge the fuel pump again don't get over the fuel dist back away some and press down on the air flow plate a few times for couple of seconds. See what come out the. 4 holes they should flow about same soaked as the rest of them. If all good install the injector lines and injectors. If fuel didn't flow.the.same.rate you have a bad. Fuel dist. OK al.good.bridge the fuel pump push down on the air flow.plate till you here fuel or a hiss.unbridge relay install relay

And try starting it....if.I.was.doing all that I would.pull the tank and clean it
Good Luck!

Gilly · #8 01-21-2013, 03:51 PM

Black relay will say "6 zyl" or "4 zyl" on top, along with an RPM which is the fuel cut-off speed. You can jump 2 of the sockets which will power the fuel pump directly, as a test.
I agree with all that is being said here, it is pretty easy to test the relay in this manner to eliminate the relay as the problem, so would do that as a first step.
Gilly

dynalow · #9 01-21-2013, 04:51 PM

Believe it or not, I had both problems. with the (1988) 300CE M103. (I beleive the 190 2.6 is the same motor?) First to go was the FPR. Then after about 3 years I experienced the same symptoms. Stalling in traffic. Pull over or drop in neutral while moving, flip ignition off then restart. Took it to the dealer and they changed the rotor, cap & ignition wires two years ago this past fall. Problem has not occurred since (in probably12k miles).

A little o/t, but what are symptoms of a failing cat converter on a W124. Just curious. Stalling? No pickup? low speed?

Gilly · #10 01-21-2013, 06:57 PM

Low power output (failing in this case means plugging up)
Can verify by a short roadtest with the head pipe loosened up at the exh manifold.

Yaboyma · #11 01-21-2013, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by partsman225

I would guess after sitting 2 years. I will most likely need a fuel pump, fuel filter,possible pressure accumulator , unhook both fuel boths fuel lines together and runs the pumps. So that the fuel is getting returned back to the tank you may have to put a battery charger on low also.let run for an hour ..while doing than take all the injectors.out. and lines off the fuel distributor. Blow them blow out all injector lines and injectors some.B-12 will help run them Ito the lines and blow out again.as for the injectors just spray the top of them leaving some B-12 on the top when to blow the compressed air through them.both that a couple.of.times for.each injector. Don't reinstall.lines and injectors just yet. Now you can unbridge the.fuel pump relay and hook both the fuel lines back up..pm bridge the fuel pump again don't get over the fuel dist back away some and press down on the air flow plate a few times for couple of seconds. See what come out the. 4 holes they should flow about same soaked as the rest of them. If all good install the injector lines and injectors. If fuel didn't flow.the.same.rate you have a bad. Fuel dist. OK al.good.bridge the fuel pump push down on the air flow.plate till you here fuel or a hiss.unbridge relay install relay

And try starting it....if.I.was.doing all that I would.pull the tank and clean it
Good Luck!

Pumps and filter are brand new.. i have unhooked them and went through that process.. i took out all the injectors and lines from the distributor and blew through them as said and also used B-12.. i also unhooked the line from the fuel filter and fired it up to blow any trash out that may have been in the line.. and i did the bleeding to make sure the air cleared out of the lines.. at this point, it actually runs a little longer, about 3 to 4 minutes now.. but still the same outcome..

Yaboyma · #12 01-21-2013, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dynalow

Believe it or not, I had both problems. with the (1988) 300CE M103. (I beleive the 190 2.6 is the same motor?) First to go was the FPR. Then after about 3 years I experienced the same symptoms. Stalling in traffic. Pull over or drop in neutral while moving, flip ignition off then restart. Took it to the dealer and they changed the rotor, cap & ignition wires two years ago this past fall. Problem has not occurred since (in probably12k miles).

A little o/t, but what are symptoms of a failing cat converter on a W124. Just curious. Stalling? No pickup? low speed?

I replaced the rotor and distributor cap but not the ignition wires.. could that be the problem?

Yaboyma · #13 01-21-2013, 10:00 PM

I also just now changed the oil in it today but havent tried to fire it up yet.. it couldn't have been changed for a while even when the previous person had it because it was very thick and looked exactly like MUD.. i doubt if that has anything to do with it but maybe it would make a little of a change?