01 E430 Front Brake Pad Replacement - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

EricSilver · #1 03-24-2013, 07:25 PM

I started to replace my front pads today and saw that there are two torx bolts that I need to deal with to open the caliper.

Research shows they are T-45 torx which I can buy pretty much anywhere. Is there anything else I should be aware of? It seems like an easier job than on my 124s.

Ferdman · #2 03-25-2013, 07:48 AM

Eric, not familiar with your specific vehicle, but you shouldn't need to "open the caliper". I would be leery of doing that without causing major problems. I own older MB models and there is no need to disassemble the calipers to remove/replace brake pads.

Hirnbeiss · #3 03-25-2013, 07:52 AM

Here is a DIY. DIY Brakes, with pictures... - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum

RichardM98 · #4 03-25-2013, 11:04 AM

I think he is referring to the guide pins. On floating calipers, the guide pins need to be retracted in order to remove the floating portion of the caliper and remove the pads.

Things you'll need are - a few packets of MB brake grease and a couple of wear sensors. Put the grease on the metal contact points between the pad and pistons and on the guide pins. Also, it's a good idea to measure the thickness of the discs. W210 discs are not meant to be turned but rather replaced when the thickness reaches a certain point.

EricSilver · #5 03-25-2013, 12:07 PM

Correct -- the guide pins.

I bought Akebono Euro ceramic pads, which came with sensors and grease. Now I need the T45 torx bit and I should be set. (The wear sensors on my current pads must have been incorrectly installed since the pads are paper thin and I never got a warning.)

Thanks everyone.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichardM98

I think he is referring to the guide pins. On floating calipers, the guide pins need to be retracted in order to remove the floating portion of the caliper and remove the pads.

Things you'll need are - a few packets of MB brake grease and a couple of wear sensors. Put the grease on the metal contact points between the pad and pistons and on the guide pins. Also, it's a good idea to measure the thickness of the discs. W210 discs are not meant to be turned but rather replaced when the thickness reaches a certain point.

RichardM98 · #6 03-25-2013, 12:33 PM

The sensor is only a piece of vinyl coated wire. You should get a warning message if you touch it (metal exposed) to the disc. If not maybe a problem up stream. I believe the vinyl should be rubbed away when the OEM pad thickness reaches 2.5mm. That is designed to give you time to schedule a pad replacement.

EricSilver · #7 03-25-2013, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichardM98

The sensor is only a piece of vinyl coated wire. You should get a warning message if you touch it (metal exposed) to the disc. If not maybe a problem up stream. I believe the vinyl should be rubbed away when the OEM pad thickness reaches 2.5mm. That is designed to give you time to schedule a pad replacement.

Understood, but mine never did.

I'll probably see why when the pads are out.

pmckechnie · #8 03-25-2013, 03:43 PM

The front seem to be the sliding caliper single piston type brakes used by most manufacturers of cheap cars. Be sure to clean and lube the sliders as they give more problems than the rest of the caliper.

Paul

EricSilver · #9 03-25-2013, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmckechnie

The front seem to be the sliding caliper single piston type brakes used by most manufacturers of cheap cars. Be sure to clean and lube the sliders as they give more problems than the rest of the caliper.

Paul

Actually, and what confused me initially, is that these are double-piston calipers, which I did not see cited in the sources I researched.

vince · #10 03-26-2013, 06:35 AM

I have over 60,000 miles experience with the Akebono Euro Ceramic pads on my 2000 C280 and my 1999 E430. I had real problems with load squealing when I installed the Akebono pads with the old, but still in spec, rotors. The deposits impregnated in the rotors from other pads cause the squealing. Use new rotors. Expect a very slightly higher pedal pressure and much, much more progressive response (as opposed to the on-off switch response of the conventional pads). I did some braking tests from 60 and 80 mph on a local abandoned road and I can't detect any difference in stopping distance. Repeated stops came within +/- 3 feet compared to the the conventional pads.

EricSilver · #11 03-31-2013, 02:28 PM

Fred & Vince,

I might never find out how those pads are because I went to install them today and discovered they are too small. (See pic.)

Is this because it is a 4-Matic, which I am assuming uses a larger pad (and those dual-piston calipers)?

EricSilver · #12 03-31-2013, 02:45 PM

Just found the answer to my own question -- the 01 and 02 e430s (or just 4matics?) require larger pads.

RichardM98 · #13 03-31-2013, 05:47 PM

I find that EPC-net ( https://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/home.jsp ) to be useful for confirming part numbers.

vince · #14 03-31-2013, 07:28 PM

The EPC is fine for factory part numbers, but the OP was talking about using aftermarket parts.

EricSilver · #15 03-31-2013, 09:11 PM

Found the correct fitting pads so it looks like I will be able to try them after all.

I agree with the sentiment regarding OEM pads, however, cleaning brake dust is costly in both time and $$.

After a wash, my front wheels stay shiny for about 2-3 days and by day 6 are dull, dirty gray. For 10+ years I overlooked Akebono pads, wondering if they were just a fluke or fad. But I cannot continue to ignore the positive reviews the Euro Ceramics are getting. I am willing to sacrifice 1 or 2 seconds in stopping power in exchange for saving hours, and $$, in not having to clean the wheels.

These two dry runs were useful. I estimate I can do each wheel in 10-15 minutes -- assuming no problems pushing back the pistons.