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  #1  
Old 07-04-2013, 09:42 PM
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Gas additives reduce NOx?

Dealing with a euro 83 500 sec that failed NOX smog.

Getting parts to tighten up vacumms.

Was perusing a local auto shop
Sears & my eye came upon

Lucas productts. Someone had recomended them but I'm not sure.

Lucas Deep Cleaner for Fuel injectors & combustion chamber.

Specifically said will reduce NOX.

Lucas Oil Deep Clean Fuel System Cleaner : Lucas Oil

Anyone know if this snake oil is safe & effective w MB?
How does it compare with the Chevron Techron cleaner? Have added that from time to time but not recently?
Just wondering if they were similar?

Lucas also come with a gas additive which I bought
which seemed to be useful???

Lucas Fuel Treatment : Lucas Oil

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  #2  
Old 07-05-2013, 12:59 AM
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To get my wagon to pass borderline NOx I dumped 6 bottles of ISOheet into half tank of gas. Rubbing alcohol achieves the same thing, but I wanted to take it easy on the fuel system. I put in that Lucas product before the emissions and it certainly didn't do as much as the Isoheet. Spend the money on the isoheet than the lucas additive.
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  #3  
Old 07-05-2013, 05:12 AM
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iso heet or e85 50% works
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  #4  
Old 07-05-2013, 08:34 AM
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Iso heet

is just alcohol
sort of like rubbing ispropyl .70?\

Hmmm might pass on that.

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  #5  
Old 07-05-2013, 10:19 AM
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Nox is caused by high combustion chamber temperatures, in this environment Nitrogen is fused with Oxygen.

Is your EGR system working? When exhaust is recirculated into the intake combustion chamber temps drop.

There may be timing / fuel mixture causing high temps, have a look around the net for a emissions curve that shows fuel mix vs CO , CO2 , HC and Nox to get some idea what is going on.
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  #6  
Old 07-05-2013, 06:01 PM
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EGR Functional

Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 SL320 View Post
Nox is caused by high combustion chamber temperatures, in this environment Nitrogen is fused with Oxygen.

Is your EGR system working? When exhaust is recirculated into the intake combustion chamber temps drop.

There may be timing / fuel mixture causing high temps, have a look around the net for a emissions curve that shows fuel mix vs CO , CO2 , HC and Nox to get some idea what is going on.

EGR was checked by a mechanic & by myself & it opens.
I did find a cracked red ruv=bber hose connecting it to the egr vac line.
I replaced that.

I have some old rubber hoses leading to intake I will be switching for new ones.

The engine does run hot 90C.

I have to call around to see what smog repair shops will be able to diagnosis a 30 yo car.

I'm getting a temp gun.
What kind of operating temps of various componemts should I detect?
Can this help w detecting problems?

NOx seems to be a tricky one for the emissions to handle.

Thanks

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  #7  
Old 07-05-2013, 10:00 PM
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EGR gets hot

Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 SL320 View Post
Nox is caused by high combustion chamber temperatures, in this environment Nitrogen is fused with Oxygen.

Is your EGR system working? When exhaust is recirculated into the intake combustion chamber temps drop.

There may be timing / fuel mixture causing high temps, have a look around the net for a emissions curve that shows fuel mix vs CO , CO2 , HC and Nox to get some idea what is going on.

Does a hot EGr tube & valve mean anything?
This is on the engine?



its a euro engine so its different in some ways

The idle control valve is a air slide not electronic ignition as it was changed sometime in the life on the car.
This idle control valve was used on the 450 SL engines...wonder if this is adding to it??? I changed some rubber hoses in that area. Don't know how to get out the hose from the aux air slide valve to intake. May have to remove vlve so will leave that to a tech


Found a cracked hose connected to a valve on back of intake manifold. that is also big tubing I don't have so will have to adress it...

This wouldn't make it run great.
Hoses are hard. Will have to get around to have someone change the hose over the 4 valve ports.

Trying & it does seem to be running smoother

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Last edited by CamelotShadow; 07-06-2013 at 07:28 AM.
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  #8  
Old 07-05-2013, 07:51 PM
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How much did you fail NOx by?

You can't hand over these cars to anybody otherwise expect to pay them to learn your car.
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  #9  
Old 07-06-2013, 09:00 PM
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Post 10

US spec cars from the 70's and up have a vacuum diagram posted somewhere under the hood, not sure if Euro spec cars did the same. A repair manual should show vacuum diagrams.


Post 11

The O2 sensor looks at excess Oxygen then feeds that info back to the engine computer, the fuel mixture is then adjusted accordingly. This is called a closed loop system.


Post 12

A hot tube / EGR valve test is only valid when the engine is cold and the valve is opened. When running, everything under the hood will heat soak making the test less valid.

Stalling the engine / rough idle when the EGR is opened is a good test.


Post 14

" Late night in garage . . . .

. . . .Started about 7pm & finished after 2AM. "

" Time for a run...I slept in late & I'm limping around.

Still got some grease under my nails..

Oh, its not very lady like but I love my car & want to make it better. "


Working on your own car, on a Friday night, will you marry me?

(Latex or nitrile gloves go a long way to help keeping hands clean. )
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  #10  
Old 07-07-2013, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 SL320 View Post

Post 11

The O2 sensor looks at excess Oxygen then feeds that info back to the engine computer, the fuel mixture is then adjusted accordingly. This is called a closed loop system.
No computer on a 83.

Quote:

Post 12

A hot tube / EGR valve test is only valid when the engine is cold and the valve is opened. When running, everything under the hood will heat soak making the test less valid.

Stalling the engine / rough idle when the EGR is opened is a good test.
Engine did slow when I gulped air from egr valve so thats good

Quote:
Camelot
Post 14

" Late night in garage . . . .

. . . .Started about 7pm & finished after 2AM. "

" Time for a run...I slept in late & I'm limping around.

Still got some grease under my nails..

Oh, its not very lady like but I love my car & want to make it better. "

Quote:
Working on your own car, on a Friday night, will you marry me?
I admit I am emotionally attached to my 2 ton beast
but secretly long to be out at the beach
I use a hairdryer to soften hard rubber hoses for removal.
Learned my lesson after breaking those fragile plastic portd on thermo valves.

Quote:

(Latex or nitrile gloves go a long way to help keeping hands clean. )
I have the purple from Kimberly clark & they are pretty durable with good feel
Good nitrile gloves but after a while of snags & rips I just rip them off to get a better feel.

Time stood still in the garage. It was quiet & I took the time checking inspecting every part trying to catch things.

Did pretty good at tear down & installing new parts except for one front air idle valve hose. It took me forever to get it back on.

Car is running very smoothe (best its ever run) but economy guage is still up.
I actually think it stinks less...

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  #11  
Old 07-07-2013, 12:00 PM
GemstoneGlass
 
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no computer but

you do have a LAMBDA which is a control box. It does affect Air fuel mix. Its likely yours is fine.
When are you going to bring it over for a pre-smog test to see what the difference is now that you have fixed vacuum issues? I suppose once you test the Cat. out. Remember, when you do, to drive it around just before taking the temp measurement.
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  #12  
Old 07-11-2013, 05:09 PM
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Got temp gun

Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Doner View Post
you do have a LAMBDA which is a control box. It does affect Air fuel mix. Its likely yours is fine.
When are you going to bring it over for a pre-smog test to see what the difference is now that you have fixed vacuum issues? I suppose once you test the Cat. out. Remember, when you do, to drive it around just before taking the temp measurement.

Had to take a break for life.
Got some vac lines & things coming from Pelican.
Need to call to see if they have larger black rubber line in meter length.

I tried to test out the tg on the Volvo.
Had it just idling so it wasn't so hot.

Exhaust pipe coming out of engine read in the low 400 degrees.
A aluminum tubung was about 160 & I noticed a small pinhole in it.
I tested the pinhole temp & it was 220.
So the gun was able to find that leak which was hotter.
I'm guessing that the temp gun is working correctly.

I tried to get the temp at the cat & in front & back but I never got temps over 160. The car was not that hot & it was just idling.

I'm going to have to see what I did wrong as I'm thinking the cat should be hotter in the Volvo. I've thought I heard the dreaded rattling a few times so it might be toast. It was replaced a couple tears ago with aftermarket.

I'll have to call around still.
Having trouble finding a smog repair that can deal with a 30 yo MB

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