Getting ready to do drop the pan on my transmission but want to get one detail straight.

There is a lot of info on the 722.6 and making sure it's fluid level is correct and how to check it, but is making sure the temp is correct as critical in the 722.3?

The service manual does state 80 degree Celsius but just says "run engine for 1 to 2 minutes", the write up on Pelican Parts for the 722.6 states to check the temp with a IR temp gun.

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89 W124 300TE - 136,000 miles

I can speak of experience of my 722.4.

the cold marking of 30C is very vague, doesnt make sense to me. because the manual tells to fill it 11mm lower than the 30C mark when cold and engine started.

My car's dipstick has a curl on the end and makes itself a pointer mark - I put the ATF level right at the edge where it becomes like a pointer arrow. After a 60 mile run to work I checked the ATF level while engine was at 90C and it was exactly at the top mark of the 80C. Shifts perfectly etc.

I believe the 722.3 dead cold fill is more like 5 or 6 mm lower than the 30C mark.

I checked my 722.6 level cold and put it at the cold mark, after driving similar mileage I checked and it was between the 80C marks

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

Thanks for the info Zulfiqar. Could the difference be in the type of fluid used?

What type of fluid are you using in your 722.4? I am not sure when the last change was done on mine but I am very surprised at how clean and clear the fluid appeared. I have not dropped the pan yet because bottom, and right up to the top of the kick down solenoid, was covered in oil from a leak along with dirt. I ended up scraping the thick stuff down, putting on engine degreaser, wire brushing, and rinsing it down.....So I am making sure things are dry before I pull the pan.

From the accumulation of oil and dirt I am guessing (hoping) it is the kick down solenoid. But, I am interested in one thing. How do you know if the kick down valve (the part that looks like a hex bolt) needs replacing? It looks like I just need to replace the solenoid if it is cracked and get new o rings and seals for the valve, but if it did need replacing how would you know?

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89 W124 300TE - 136,000 miles

I have used tractor supply co. house brand ATF and also Brad Penn ATF III-H - with perfect results, shifts very nice, not slippy not too firm, just right.

these are budget ATF too.

to make sure you dont have any leaks - make sure you use some sort of torque wrench to tighten the 6 bolts of the pan, I tightened to 60 inch/lbs and left it there.

The bolts actually dont bottom out, so the 5 or so lb/ft you are applying is just squishing the rubber gasket to seal. If you overtighten it the thing leaks btw once you install the filter do not unscrew it to adjust. it has a cork type material crush seal that only seals once.

The kickdown solenoid has a bolt through it which has a few O rings and a seal washer too. replace all - about 5 dollars worth of parts. If the casing is cracked and is leaking heavily - replace it. however mine is cracked and still not leaking.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)