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Need some pointers: Looking to buy a 93 300te 4matic
I have been looking around for a s124 wagon for a while now.
I dorve by the other day and saw a 93 300te 4matic. Ill be looking at it tomorrow am. I have a few questions, and need a few pointers. Does anyone know what engine it is supposed to have? How do I test the SLS if it has one? Do they all have it? Any 4matic specific tests? Where are common leak points? Any specific s124 rust spots? Wiring harness year? The car seems well maintained with an advertised 119k. It does have heated seats and grey leather interior. Original radio, etc... Paint is nice and glossy, but at some point it was backed in to something stationary and did some minor damage to the rear hatch, and r,r panel. Also broke out tail light. My guess is that it is a 500-1k repair if I dropped it off to the dealer to get repaired. Any info is welcomed and appreciated. Thing is, he's asking $3500. At that price, it should be nearly perfect. What would be a fair price? |
According to this page
Mercedes Benz EPC 124.290 Chassis Information | Everything Benz The engine is a M103.985 Automatic transmissions 722.342 or 722.346 (probably not this one as it was Europe issue) Here the 4Matics are cheaper than the other equivalent models because they are expensive to fix. All the W124s I've seen rot like any other Mercedes I've seen with rust issues in four main places => behind the front wheels and in front of the rear. I've noticed that cars with rust behind the rear wheels and in front of the front wheels are usually more gone than the others with just rust in the four corners of the floor pan area. (Massive generalisation I know - but we like sweeping statements here) |
I popped the jack plugs and everything seemed ok. The w124 is notorious for rotting there. Ill check the wheel wells when I see it tomorrow.
If it has anything more than I light surface rust on the underbody, Ill be passing on the whole bit. |
If the 4-matic light comes on and then goes off when the engine is started then the 4-matic system should be functional. Test it by finding a gravel patch and spinning the rear wheels taking off. It should illuminate the triangle warning in the speedo and immediately lock the t-case and pull off without further spinning. Under the hood check the fluid level in the hydraulic reservoir on the drivers fender. It should be at least 2/3s full, pull the dipstick and check its level.
Check the SLS by sitting on the rear with a (portly) friend while idling. You should feel it slowly pump up as it levels out your weight. Also check that the rear hatch holds itself up. The struts are buried and a real PITA to replace. Additionally check the function of the rear wiper motor. A sluggish motor is cause for concern as they aren't cheap or easy to replace. Check that the rear washer works as well. They break the hose in the right tailgate hinge and that isn't an easy fix either. Lastly make sure the tailgate power latches. You don't slam them, just set the tailgate down on the latch and it should pull down and latch automaticly. If it has the factory sound system.... they tend to crap out due to water leaking in around the antenna seal. Open the cover in the right rear and inspect the audio components in that vicinity for corrosion or water ingress damage. |
Excellent info, thanks. Any idea on value of these things?
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Value
Not sure I can help on the value, but I think you've got a good negotiating point on the damage to the rear you mentioned. You might even take it to a body shop and get a written estimate for further leverage. Good luck.
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i think most people will tell you not to get a 4matic. I lost a 100 deposit on one last year... best 100 i ever in spent.
i wish i did complete due diligence before i put down the deposit... but i wanted a wagon so badly at the time... now i am looking at another without the 4matic.... we will see how it goes. |
I think there is a general fear of 4 matics for no real good reason. From my limited research, it doesn't seem like they are especially failure prone. The only drawback to me is that when it fails, the rebuild will cost twice as much.
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@stretch: I must agree with you on that but I do admit, watching the thread where you took apart the 5 speed gearbox was pretty intense.
I'm going to look at it in about 30 minutes. Ill report back when I can |
So i looked at the 300te and im a bit dissapointed.
The rear damage is a bit more that I anticipated. I went to open the rear interior side panel and it was basically jammed. THe rear pillar was definitely pushed in an 1/8 of an inch give or take. It really sucks because that is exactly the type of wagon I am looking for. The rear wiper worked, but could not get washer fluid (didnt check bottle). Self closing rear latch inop Interior is nice less one small burn hole on the back passenger seat. shift linkage needs bushings. Car was alreay @ operating temp when I got there (can we say red flag?) I say so because this car is supposedly never driven and has not moved in the 3 days I have been looking at it. I was unable to test the 4matic, but all the lights turned on when I started the car. There was a hydraulic bottle on the fender, does that mean it has SLS? What would you guys offer on a car like this? Other than the above, the car is in pretty good shape. It was never meticulously maintained, but not beat to death by any stretch. Err, also, very little/ no service history. |
I'd keep looking - but there's probably more of a choice here - are W124 wagons hard to find?
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Personally I'd find a Rear drive one and spend some money on a extra set of wheels + snow tires. It will do just as well.
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The miliage is on the low side, which is a positive as well. I offered the guy 2k. He said no. The problem we have is that even with the body damage, and other issues, he thinks the car is in excellent condition. And, he is pricing based on KBB.com which is useless on a 20 year old car. There where a couple of minor rust bubbles as well. |
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My must haves on a wagon are: Working SLS No Rust M103 engine Leather interior. No body damage otherwise No major wear on the interior. Bonus given for: Heated seats Mint exterior Mint leather interior Service history minimal fluid leakage After buying my 300e for 1k dollars 7 years ago, I know exactly how expensive a cheap Mercedes is. Id be willing to pay 5 grand for a REALLY good one. |
My 87 sedan with the 103 is excellent in the snow. I can't see any reason to have the 4 matic, even though I always kind of wanted one. I have a set of 4 soft and knobby winter tires that grip like crazy and with that 2nd gear start, she crawls through the snow and ice about as well as anything I've ever driven.
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Once you've had a 4-matic you'll never want anything else. Adverse conditions OR dry pavement the amount of grip is insane. The t-case initially locks in a 60/40 split, but will go on to lock in a 50/50 split if lack of traction continues. In addition it will also lock the rear differential though I forget the order in which it does it. I think it goes 60/40, rear diff, 50/50 but not 100% certain at the moment. Point being GRIP and lots of it. I personally dare anyone to push a 124 4-matic wagon to understeer on dry pavement. On very slippery surfaces it does take a bit of getting used to but once you're familiar with how it will behave it is very controllable. I live in the Denver metro and have never put snow tires on my daily driver 4-M wagon. Even still I'm not afraid to plow snow with the front bumper.
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How is the 4matic handle with the turbo? I could only imagine traction would be excellent
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4 wheel power slides are a blast :D
I think I'm getting pretty close to stripping the splines on my front driveshaft but I've been trying for a while and will call it an accomplishment when I do.:D |
Getting off track, what did you do for the additional fueling?
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I currently run a standalone programable EFI and Ignition, Megasquirt. In particular MS2 Extra. Previously I had used an old Mosselman enrichment box with the CIS and stock EZL. I could run 9 PSI up to 5K RPM with the old set-up. With the programable EFI I run 18 PSI, but its also with an engine I built up better for boost.
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Low miles doesn't necessarily help an engine => http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/343215-calling-all-petrol-engine-combustion-gurus-m102-based-qu.html |
The mileage won't make a difference other than the indication of less use.
I have factory mosselman turbos that where designed for the m103 engine |
I actually sold a Mosselman setup several years back. When you go to hang yours on a 4-matic I may have a couple of tips to help you along. Personally, I prefer a single turbo to twins. I always tend to do things a little different though.
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I think the car you are describing is a 6-800 car. People are scared of them and any body damage kills the whole thing. I gave $300 for mine and have been enjoying the heck out of it. Trans has no reverse but its not a big deal; found a jy trans and will rebuild it. Also; high mileage means nothing on these; this is my first 4matic but it won't be my last!
Edit: in my experience, the wagons do not rust as badly as the sedans. I'm not sure why that is but its what I've observed. |
If you can find me a 93 4matic with good leather, practicallly no rust, and heated seats that runs well I'd gladly pay 800 plus a finders fee
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