Rebuilding a 722.369
 

Hey Guys,

Finally lost reverse in my '95 e320 Wagon. I bought a master rebuild kit and would like to do it myself. This will be a first for me.
My back round; I've rebuilt a V-8 Ford motor and removed and replaced countless motors, transmissions, clutches, heads and valve jobs, etc... I was a CH-47D Chinook Mechanic and Fight Engineer in the Army. I can do just about any task given the proper step-by-step procedure info.
So, can anyone tell me of any thorough threads or articles out there.

Thanks for any help,
Shawn

Welcome to the forum Shawn!

You can do it. It just takes patience, and accountability...

The magic tools: torque wrenches, 12point 30mm deep socket, 3" PVC plumbing coupling, some good o-ring picks(the Harbor Freight set will do), Transmission assembly grease, depth vernier, feeler gauges, one medium size electrical pliers(to remove the snap ring on the governor),and I made a B1 piston removal tool from a double-duplex metal punch-out metal plate with a ten-inch bolt.

Here is a meaty thread, yet in the end something went wrong:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/308281-help-stuck-road-722-3-no-3rd-4th-gear.html

Though this is for a 722.5, it is very similar:

Post 2 gives you an idea of the tear-down, and post 6 is the issue with reverse, and the use of the plumbing coupling to get to the reverse lip seal.

Post 12 & 13, are parts I would replace that are not included in your kit.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/321329-722-5-tear-down-side-start.html

I have all the service literature(factory 722.3 and ATSG manuals) on this transmission if you cannot get it from the link below. PM me we can exchange emails, and I can send it to you.The manuals are too large to post here.

Transmision work shop manual - Mercedes-Benz Forum

Replace K1 and K2(same part)

DIY Mercedes 722.3 722.4 722.5 Transmission K1 Piston Spring Repair Kit Install - Mercedes-Benz Forum

K2 spring number for tranny 722.3 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

The links from this post and the attachment should help:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/348463-300te-722-358-tranny-3rd-4th-gone.html

It is 12 midnight, and going blank, but maybe others have some meaty-links..

Let me know what else you may need. While the tranny is out. replace your rear engine seal, and Mercedes updated the rear seal bracket. The bolts were changed too. You will need new torque converter bolts, and pressure plate bolts too..

Sign-up for EPC to get the latest correct part numbers..Only works with Windows on Internet Explorer with JAVA updated..

EPC-net Online

Best of luck,

Martin

More data on topic
 

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/319957-722-315-pump-re-seal-pictures.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/142395-transmission.html


.

Replace the rear crank seal. Need new flywheel bolts to replace stretched old ones. Add torque wrench. 30 to 40nm. 8 bolts @$10 each from from MB. Or Amazon or ********az or **********. Do you have EPC.Startek for vin specific parts numbers...may help with sorting seals, etc.

Auto Haus az...RM euro pean

And may those of us timid masses who view auto trannys as black magic ask you to post your step by step work with lots of photos?

Rgds,
Chris W.
'95 E300D, 410K with original trans

Hi everyone, I know it's been a year since I posted asking for advice with my 722.369 Trans rebuild. I can't believe its been a :Dyear!
A big thank you to MAVA for the threads. I printed out the service manual and the 722.5 thread.
Well, I actually started today with it on my bench. I've got the pan and valve Body off and moving on. Bagging the bolts and watching out for anything that may spring out at me! Im taking some pictures along the way. Right now I'm working on it valve body up. Is that the way it'll stay throught the rebuild? I worried about bending the kick down lever if I roll it over, same with the shift detent. The shift detent looks like it will come out, but is the kick down arm pivot pressed in?
I'll check in later tonight,

Thanks,
Shawn

Shawn,

You went MIA on us. I'm alive and kicking...

No sure where you live(country wise?). I use the R/O/C/K-A/U/t/o rebuild kits, or you can peachparts kits...

Kickdown is pressed in. I did not touch it too...I replaced the B2 piston.. Use the epc diagrams for Mercedes. Do your main seal, but on the M104 you will need to replace the bracket and bolts, and rear seal.. (it has been updated). You should replace the pump bushings. If torque converter shaft is scared, replace it. BUy a CVC torque converter. They are under $200.. Buy new K1, K2, B1 pistons from Mercedes-The link is in one of the links.

Torque Converters Distributors Page - Consolidated Vehicle Converters, Remanufacturing Torque Converters for Automatic Transmissions

Martin

Hey Martin, I've got the trans torn down. I found a few things that may have caused problems. I have the used Trans that I bought as a replacement while I rebuilt the original. I'm pulling it now and going to tear it down this evening.
I made a cradle using some pieces of 2x4's, works well. My plan is to cannibalize the used one to complete the original.
This is the what I found when I removed the front pump. I don't think it's supposed to look like this!Attachment 128143Attachment 128144

Well I got the used trans out of the wagon and torndown. The front pump looks to be in good shape.
Tomorrow I'm going to reassemble the original trans with the rebuild kit and swap out the damaged part.
This is what came out of the donor trans. I'm going to make sure that all the part dimensions are the same before using them. I'll post a bunch of photos tomorrow.

Thanks guys,

Shawn

p.s. I live in Long Beach CA

FYI
 

You should replace the seals before installing that unit.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/319957-722-315-pump-re-seal-pictures.html


.

Thanks whunter, I got impatient yesterday and started putting things together without "reading ahead". I Assembled the clutch packs, brake bands, front cover/pump,
But I was having a hell of a time getting everything lined up to get the cover to seat all the way. Well, I read this morning about soaking the friction disks in trans fluid for an hour! So, I went out, took everything apart again and have them soaking. I saw your comment this morning about replacing the seals. I've been lazy about making a tool to compress the springs, but it looks like it must be done. It'll force me to slow down and be more thorough in replacing every Teflon seal and o-ring. I've been trying to take pictures along the way.

Thanks for the help. I'll check in again to let you know how it's going. Especially when trying to get all the disks and plates lined up to install the main shaft into the housing.

Shawn

Thanks for the head up on the pump. I found that that the donor trans had had the cogs, or tabs, inside the support that engage the torque converter are sheared off. Which is why the used Trans didn't work after being installed in the car. I went through both the original and the donor trans. I was able to assemble a good pump with new seals. I soaked the friction disks for a couple of hours or so, and reassembled the K-1 and K-2 with soaking wet disks and plates. I packed them up in gallon sized ziplock bags for safe keeping over night.
tomorrow I'm going to strip the tail support and replace the seals.
I'm trying to take photos along the way, but working alone with dirty hands makes it difficult at times. When I'm done I'll put together a series of photos showing what I came across and the steps I took to correct them.
A big thanks to whunter and MAVA for their guidance.

I don't know if you mentioned that you had the rebuild manual or not. But as a fyi, theres a critical stackup dimension for the B3 reverse clutch disks. Reason I would suggest you check this is you now have a front pump and B3 piston made from different parts so the stack up distance might be different. This could cause binding of the b3 clutch if its too long and wear out your reverse disks really quick. Just a FYI.


This is why, before lifting the trans into the car, it is "key" :D to ensure that the torque converter is properly engaged into the pump.

Hey guys, got the trans (722.369) rebuilt and installed. I started filling it with fluid when I noticed a leak. It was leaking from the Vacuum Modulator. When I installed the vac mod I did so with a thin o-ring. I have it out and looking at it, the O-ring is pretty thin. I downloaded the service manual and it called the part a "sealing ring" elsewhere
on other parts it'll say "o-ring". So, is the seal for the vac mod a rubber o-ring or a metalic sealing ring/washer like on the fluid lines?

Thanks,
Shawn