I am trying to replace the front shocks on my TD. Now, I have done this on my SD, but the spacing is different on this car. I am having trouble getting to the inside 10mm bolt, the one nearest to the spring. It seems the angle of the shock is getting in the way of putting the socket straight on. I do remember on my W116 I had to use a box end for this bolt, but with this car I can't seem to get even that over the bolt. Any tips would greatly be appreciated.

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1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi)
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi)
2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi)
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I think you can get the clearance you need by turning the wheels all the way to the right or left. Or I'm not visualizing your problem correctly.

Sixto
91 300SE
87 300SDL
81 300SD

Yeah, I already tried that one. Actually the bolt I am having problems with is the one between the coil spring and the bottom of the shock. It is because of the spring that I can't get the boxend wrench in there very well. The bolt nearest to the wheel, I was able to get out with no problem. Maybe I will have to look at my SD and see if my memory to clear up.

__________________
1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi)
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi)
2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi)
MBCA member

I remember needing kind of an odd tool ( I think it was a 10mm 12 point socket ) but I don't recall having any difficulty accessing it.

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disconnect the top of the shock first,then depress it so you can move it out of the hole in the fenderwell and outward. then you'll have room for the inboard bolt.good luck..paul

I found using a wobble-end 3/8 short extension worked best with the 12 point 10mm socket.

Jeff

The bolts are indeed 10mm/12point. I'll try the compressing idea. I of course first tried removing the wheel, but that didn't turn out as I expected.. This is the first time I have tried to remove the wheel my self. I used a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter into a 17mm socket. Well a couple of the bolts were in WAY too tight. I put some muscle into it and sheered my Craftsman adapter. So I have been attempting to do this shock change with the wheel inplace.

__________________
1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi)
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi)
2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi)
MBCA member

leave the wheels on and let them set on the ground and then remove the 17mm nuts that hold the top of the shocks.lift up the car.to do the left side turn the wheel hard left. grab the top of the shock,pull down on it until it comes out of the fender well hole. then you can move it outward.after doing it this way,the next time you'll be able to do one side in 15 minutes....paul

Forget about your socket set(s) and use a 10MM, 12 point box end wrench. I've done it many times.

As mentioned by previous responders, simply turn the wheels one way or the other to get them out of the way.

Good luck,

I have just mounted my front shock....where it connects with its "socket" (the one with the 2 screws you can't move) it has the rubber end that is fixed in place with a sort of riveted fitting. Try taking it out with a drilling machine , then there will be a lot of space ...
excuse my english ...

I did mine about 6 mos ago and used his approach. A day or so of soak with penetrating oil also helps, but with the approach that Paul describes, it is a 15 minute job, the key being remove the top shock mount first. That gives you just enough play to get better access.

JCD

I agree with paul. Remove the upper shock mount and compress the shock, swing the shock outwards. The inner bolt can now be easily removed with a12 point 10mm socket.
Installing: bolt new shock to lower mount; align upper shock stud with mounting hole, then clip the safety wire and let the shock extend into the wheel well mounting hole!
It took me about 10 minutes to do each one last month, once the car was 'jacked' up and set to go.

the Bern

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It should be pointed out the "compress the shock" is often times much easier said than done. With gas shocks and especially new ones, it sometimes requires a good effort to compress them enough to allow the shock to swing-out.

Thanks for all the replies. I went to Sears and bought a angled 10mm/11mm boxwrench. This enabled me to get to the bolts easier. As for compressing the shocks, well that was real easy because these shocks were completely shot. I am gathering these are the original shocks, that would be 19 yrs old. Originally I was going to use a 10mm stubby wrench but with the bolts sitting like they do, I figured a 45 deg. angle wrench would do the trick, so that's why I bought that.
Now that I have corrected the frontend, now I am waiting on the aircells to fix the backend. Thanks again for the tips.

__________________
1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi)
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi)
2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi)
MBCA member