W124 300TE SLS Accumulator replacement tips?

[ps2cho]

So I ordered two Genuine MB SLS Accumulators, because mine are definitely dead now.

Any tips or suggestions for replacement?

I got myself a set of open box wrenches already....

EDIT: Looks like there are crush washers and my EPC has expired. I tried to renew and it just gives me an error and to try again later. Can anybody find me the part # for the crush washers?

[pwogaman]

Not quite the typical part number, but here is one:

[duxthe1]

You'll be fine to re-use the crush washers. Don't bother to remove everything to get the interior panel covering them out. Drop the seat backs and take the screws out the front of the panel and just pry it up to get room. If you bend it a little its ok you'll never notice with it screwed back down.

[DieselPaul]

The hard lines are tedious but my car lived in ohio for 14 years and replacing the accumulators was nowhere near the ordeal friends and forums told me it was. Really did not take very long either.

I removed my SLS reservoir from the car so I could dump it out and wipe out the crud in the bottom so I got as much fresh fluid in the system as possible.

I also bought my accumulators at the dealer with my discount there were the almost same price as aftermarket. I also used OEM fluid, it was cheaper than Febi. If you haven't bought the parts might be worth a call to the dealer to price genuine stuff. While the jobs not hard I didn't want to do it twice.

Edit somehow missed the first sentence, you've got OE parts.

[ps2cho]

Got the Genuine MB Accumulators yesterday after a week mailtag with Fedex because they are "hazardous shipment". Apparantly for them "3rd and FINAL NOTICE", means they will try the house 6x before leaving it at the facility for me to pick up lol.

I am planning the replacement Monday. Thanks MLK!

Anybody have a decent DIY with photos for the interior removal on the wagon?

Hoping no issues with the hard lines since I don't have a spec of rust anywhere. It looks as simple as disconnect the hard lines, unbolt the accumulators, lift out from inside the car, and vice versa?
Since the SLS is self bleeding, I shouldn't even need to do anything after right?
I have plenty of new fluid, and a new filter. 6 months ago I removed the reservoir when I replaced the cracking line to the pump, so all the crud is gone and it is squeaky clean.
Looking forward to having a nice ride again.

[pwogaman]

Here are some reference pics to help get you part of the way. Good luck.

[ds190]

So the big tip about this is:

After you put the new accumulators in place, do not tighten those bolts all the way, but leave some play. That will make it so much easier to next connect the hard lines. After those hard lines are in place but just a tiny bit loose, tighten the bolts to the accumulators, and lastly tighten the hard lines.

[ps2cho]

Can anybody give me the part # for the crush washers? My EPC still gives me the unable to process error when I try to register. No clue why...

I've searched ALL over the internet and I cannot find one post that states the part #. All I find is "replace the crush washers" but with no part number included. Without the EPC I am kinda blind

[Shortsguy1]

Hopefully the part you need is identified in one of these images.

[ps2cho]

That N# looks like it. Thanks!

3 more weeks then I will enjoy a smooth ride again. Can't wait.

[ps2cho]

So for future readers in text:
part numbers you need for a basic SLS accumulator replacement no excuses:
got these from parts.com


Accumulators: two @ $264 total

Banjo Crush washers: 007603016103 (need 2, buy 4) Item: RING,GENERAL (total price $5.32)

Gasket to frame: 1249970940 (need two) $4.32

Will post photos in 3 weeks time when I get started (what fun I have during my spring breaks )