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#1
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Looking for advice on a potential purchase
I am considering traveling to look at a '85 190E 2.3 8 valve, manual transmission car.
The current owner admits to it running poorly until it is warmed up, suggesting that it needs a "tune up" and that it needs brake work, what ever that means. I'm not at all concerned about the brakes, but... Can someone give me a run down about what might be behind the poor running/idling when cold? As far as I know the present owner has owned it for 6 months, so I am thinking he has decided not to fix or run the car as planned. ALSO, what would be a fair price for a Clean '85 190 w/ a stick? assuming excellent sheet metal, and good to very good interior? The car is reported to have 140,000 on it. Coming from 100,000 miles in a '85 300D, I am uncertain of the gas jobs, but interested in a W201. Oh yeah and the present asking price is around $2700. Thanks, |
#2
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You'd need to do full troubleshooting on it. Test each component... Could be a part or two, or could need "everything". Asking price sounds way too high based on your description. How is the tranny? Ac and heat? All interior stuff working? Windows go up and down
, etc. Oil leaks? Diff leaking? Rough samples seem to go for 500-1200. |
#3
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Quote:
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1989 300ce 129k ( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone) 1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus 1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k ![]() 1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it [/SIGPIC] |
#4
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2700$ !!!!
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![]() 90 300TE 4-M Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim T04B cover .60 AR Stage 3 turbine .63 AR A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control 3" Exh, AEM W/B O2 Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys, Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster. 3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start 90 300CE 104.980 Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression 197° intake cam w/20° advancer Tuned CIS ECU 4° ignition advance PCS TCM2000, built 722.6 600W networked suction fan Sportline sway bars V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff |
#5
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140,000 on a poorly running 190e 2.3 I'd say its worth about $800 tops if the body/interior are in nice shape. Getting a M102 gas engine running properly if it is not is a PAIN and $$$$$. I'd run away, or offer $800 and convert it to diesel.
My 190 used to be a 2.3 gasser also, and it was a mega pain and never ran right. Ended up ditching the gasser and swapping to OM601 diesel. Now its an awesome car ![]() Sounds like this guy is trying to find a sucker to reimburse his bad decision, or a sucker to make a bunch of $$ off of.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#6
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 401,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 26,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. 99 Mazda Miata 183,xxx miles. |
#7
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I too love the diesel (particularly OM617) but don't think the gassers are that bad... Running rough when engine cold? Cold start circuit (eg. The valve) working correctly?
Had a 2.3E (W123) for a while about 6 months ago. That thing hauled a$$. What a fun thing to ride! Benz gassers are not at all terrible even when aged, if properly kept up!
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1983 300SD, 1999 200 cdi and 1998 1,6 (gasser) |
#8
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Pop the distributor cap and check the condition of the rotor and the cap.
I've seen some poor running gassers come back to life with a simple cap/rotor/wires/plug refresh. Jim
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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles 95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles 94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles 85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles |
#9
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Thanks for the replies. . I am not gonna hurry into this particular vehicle, but may call the dude and have a chat. I agree that he may be trying to dump a mistake, and at 2700, he is asking at least twice to three times what it is worth to me. If I go see it, I will be back with my evaluation.
best, Jason |
#10
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My race car is a 1984 190E 2.3/8-valve/5-speed with a completely stock drivetrain that has never, ever given me trouble. The engine is a junkyard unit out of a 1985 190E and has only ever needed regular maintenance over the 15 years I've been abusing it. I do have some trouble with it stumbling and stalling when the engine gets very wet, but other than that it has gobs and gobs of torque and pulls like a freight train until the cows come home. It's very light and tossable and simply a blast to drive hard (can you say "trail brake?").
That being said, I agree with Jim to start with the simple stuff and see where that leads you; be very methodical, beginning with the ignition and then getting into the injection system, checking for things like loose wires and broken connectors and cracked vacuum lines. The fact that it runs fine after warming up tells me that there's nothing seriously wrong with the basics. While $2,700 does seem a bit high, the key to value is in the body - if it's really clean, with excellent sheet metal and very good interior, it's worth the money.
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Robert Fini '12 ML350 BlueTec, 100k '06 E320CDI (x2) '05 T1N Sprinter 2500/Pleasure-Way Plateau TS, 70k '97 C36AMG, 319k (son's) '94 E320T, 249k '93 190E Sportline LE, 168k (daughter's) '84 190E-2.3/5spd (Stage Rally Racer) '66 230 W110 Sedan (Barn Find, Vintage Racer build in progress) |
#11
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ALL great advise.
I would want to know how firm the guy is on price, as well as evaluate it in person. Without seeing it, the price sound astronomical to me.
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'06 E320 CDI '17 Corvette Stingray Vert |
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