87 300e W124 M103 Water pump removal - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Camohall · #1 02-08-2009, 07:58 PM

Does anybody have any suggestions on the wrenching gymnastics to remove the water pump on an 87 M103 engine (in line six)?
Got the front upper, back upper, and back lower bolts removed but struggled and couldn't get the front lower bolt. Did everything I could imagine, just couldn't get to to easily without having to remove the tensioner. I need to replace the O-ring between pump and cylinder head.
Advice anyone?
Anything is greatly appreciated.

deanyel · #2 02-08-2009, 08:25 PM

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/M103WaterPump

Camohall · #3 02-08-2009, 08:39 PM

Hey, thanks for the reply. I used that DIY article for the waterpump removal but nowhere in the article does it discuss removal of the front lower bolt. I was able to get the other three off without issue.
Any suggestions?

wbain5280 · #4 02-09-2009, 01:37 AM

You have to unbolt the tensioner and the power steering pump. Move the PS pump out of the way, remove a few pulleys and the bolts will be accessable. Use some grease to hold the O-Ring in the water pump housing that's bown low. Get a new short hose between the pump and cyl head.

ps2cho · #5 02-09-2009, 03:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wbain5280

You have to unbolt the tensioner and the power steering pump. Move the PS pump out of the way, remove a few pulleys and the bolts will be accessable. Use some grease to hold the O-Ring in the water pump housing that's bown low. Get a new short hose between the pump and cyl head.

x2. There is not enough space to angle any tool in to get to that bolt. PS Pump and the bracket that goes across gotta come off!
Again x2 on the head to water pump hose...you won't be accessing that hose again for a long time so spend the few dollars it is and get it replaced.

J.HIDALGO · #6 02-10-2009, 10:38 PM

Normally, if the pump is leaking. The pump is bad.

Ivanerrol · #7 02-11-2009, 07:14 AM

Here is a copy of a post a put in another M103 water pump thread yesterday.

Did this job myself last week on my W124 M103 260e. Water pump was O.K. just a leak from the bottom.
What a barsteward of a job to replace a $ 3.00 O ring. The Aircon hoses are in the way of the rear bolts of the pump.

While removing the components to get at the pump I rocked the water pump pulley back and forwards to determine whether or not the pump front bearing was O.K. The rocking backwards and forwards of the pump exacerbated the O ring leak and it was quite easy to see coolant dripping out from the bottom area of the pump and not the bearing assemblies. The rubber O ring between block and pump body flat, hard and leaking

Items removed to facilitate job: Fan shroud, fan and clutch, fan and power steering pulleys, Dipstick and tube removed, belt tensioner, power steering moved out of the way, removed distributor to get at bolt holding heating tube to block, first two injectors and lines, moved IACV out of the way, radiator hoses.
Time taken to complete entire job 8 hours - including time to look for dropped bolts hidden in inaccessible locations

New items: O ring for pump body, O ring for heater tube, new bypass hose between block and thermostat housing, lower radiator hose.

Ivanerrol recommends purchasing a flexible extension - extremely handy.

gmercoleza · #8 02-11-2009, 12:17 PM

I didn't have to remove the PS pump when I did mine. I think I loosened but did not completely remove the tensioner. I have posted about this sometime in the past...

Camohall · #9 02-14-2009, 08:28 AM

Ivaneroll, you rock.
That was an awesome posting. The pics help out a bunch.
And yes, I have the same problem: a leak from the bottom of the pump.
Slow and steady.
Just as you described, I'm going to have to remove the PS pump and tensioner simply to get to one bolt (!!!). 8 hour job for a $3 part....what a pain.
Thanks again.

Ivanerrol · #10 02-14-2009, 07:55 PM

You don't need to remove the PS pump completely just remove all the brackets and push it out the way.
Don't forget to clean the faces of the water pump and block with a little gentle wet and dry paper before you reassemble.
I removed the two first injectors so I could get access to the top bolt with some ring spanners. My car being RHD and a Japanese issue car has the aircon pipes in a very pesky position for access.
Of course next time I do this job it will only take around 4 hours

(or less)

colrose · #11 05-28-2014, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Camohall

Ivaneroll, you rock.
That was an awesome posting. The pics help out a bunch.
And yes, I have the same problem: a leak from the bottom of the pump.
Slow and steady.
Just as you described, I'm going to have to remove the PS pump and tensioner simply to get to one bolt (!!!). 8 hour job for a $3 part....what a pain.
Thanks again.

1. Remove radiator and hoses (7mm clips aarg)
2. Note the track of the serpentine belt with a piece of chalk (or a photo)
2. Remove and mark 13 mm bolts (different lengths) using (air tools if possible) 13mm socket and 19mm socket plus a 13mm spanner. remove all pulleys. Note locking bar hole on back of top pulley to counter hold the pulley.
3. Undo steering pump left side bolts 13mm. Push pump to the right.
4. Remove 19mm tensioner bolt. Remove tensioner with shock absorber.
5. If you have cap screws, remove the 4 cap screws (6mm) holding the pump to the block. A long Allen key and a short Allen key on a 1/4 flexible extension bar with a ratchet drive works well.
6. If you have bolts (13mm) I used a spanner on top front, a 1/4 drive socket (13mm) with a wobble end and extension bar and ratchet for the top back and bottom back. Bottom front is easy (relatively).
Practice makes perfect. I can do it in 30 minutes now.
7. IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE TOOLS DON'T EVEN TRY THE JOB. SUICIDE WILL BECOME ATTRACTIVE!!http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/images/smilies/mad.gif

optimusprime · #12 06-03-2014, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Camohall

Does anybody have any suggestions on the wrenching gymnastics to remove the water pump on an 87 M103 engine (in line six)?
Got the front upper, back upper, and back lower bolts removed but struggled and couldn't get the front lower bolt. Did everything I could imagine, just couldn't get to to easily without having to remove the tensioner. I need to replace the O-ring between pump and cylinder head.
Advice anyone?
Anything is greatly appreciated.

check out TECH INFO top of page put w 190 2.6 replace tensioner ,its half your job explained.

paul roberts · #13 06-09-2014, 09:39 PM

Remove the fan shroud and fan. Remove the waterpump pulley, tensioner
shock, #1 intake manifold bolt and WP bolts and you can roll it out. Nothing else needs to be removed or loosened.

lee polowczuk · #14 06-09-2014, 11:47 PM

oh boy...does this bring back memories... i took out the radiator and everything else..except the power steering pump... a couple of bolts and move to the side like others said... it seems like the key for the tough bolt is a universal joint...that you have to tape up with electrical tape... it gives you some flexibility but will stabilize and get the socket on the nut.... of course you can have a hex instead.... i have had both the hex is actually easier.

if none of this makes sense... keep working the board... i have done 3 water pumps... always takes about 5.5 hours......