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#1
07-20-2014, 10:42 PM
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190e Wheel Bearing Question
I got this one done this weekend. I tightened the nut down by hand very tight, but could still freely turn the hub. The washer was locked. I backed it out a bit until the washer turned freely but with some resistance. I could not get any play in the hub in/out or side to side.
I put the rotor on and attached the magnetic part on the rotor and the dial on the nut. Wiggling back and forth I got readings of 1mm of travel. By feel only there was no play at all. With the wheel on there is still no in/out travel but some back and forth travel. Tightening by hand does not allow me to "lock" the hub/rotor. Should I be cranking that nut with channel locks or something? 
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#2
07-20-2014, 11:39 PM
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Even a little too tight will ruin a bearing in no time flat. They will run near forever when set on the loose side.
__________________
 90 300TE 4-M Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim T04B cover .60 AR Stage 3 turbine .63 AR A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control 3" Exh, AEM W/B O2 Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys, Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster. 3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start 90 300CE 104.980 Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression 197° intake cam w/20° advancer Tuned CIS ECU 4° ignition advance PCS TCM2000, built 722.6 600W networked suction fan Sportline sway bars V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff
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#3
07-21-2014, 07:48 AM
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The rotor can turn alomg no problem. The nut sits on the threaded spindle, which is fixed.
I use the "can just start to slide the washer" method all the time and have always been happy with it.
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Prost! 
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#4
07-21-2014, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
I personally like the advance by hand method and the correct quantity of good ol' american wheel bearin' grease fer them new fangled disc brakes
__________________
2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model) 1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017) 2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)
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#5
07-21-2014, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
I drove it in to work today and it drove fine. I think my steering rattle is finally gone.
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#6
07-21-2014, 01:36 PM
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The end play spec is 4-8 ten-thousands, which is very difficult to actually measure and much smaller and narrower of range than the 1-5 thousanths typical of my vintage Corvette and Cosworth Vega.
The nice thing is that infinitesimally adjustable pinch bolt nut. On a vintage Chevy you have a 20 thread per inch castle nut with two perpendicular cotter pin holes, so the nut has to be turned in 1/12 turn increments, which changes clearance by about .004". Bolt down the rotor and tighten the spindle nut to a few lb-ft torque and spin the rotor a few times. Then loosen the nut just to the point where you can barely feel play by wiggling the rotor sideways and tighten the pinch bolt to lock the nut to the spindle. You may want to do the above several times until you get a feel for when you can barely detect play. Do a final check with the wheel installed. As a general rule the smaller the wheel bearing end play, the more precise the steering wheel will feel. On my vintage GM cars I dressed down the washer a few thou so I could get the end play into the 1-1.5 thou range, by turning the nut an additional 1/12th turn. Duke
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#7
07-21-2014, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
put a lug bolt across from the set screw and tighten it down.
__________________
2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model) 1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017) 2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)
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