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#1
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H9DC0 Spark Plugs
Happy Holidays!
Does anyone know if you can still get the Bosch H9DC0 spark plugs here at peach parts? The link that I had saved as a bookmark was working until recently, now the link brings me directly to this forum. Also, does anyone know what torque setting should you use when installing the plugs with anti-seize compound? The shop manual says 15ft-lbs, but that is without anti-seize compound. Thanks much! -Chris
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Streetside: 1987 Mercedes 300E Petrol Blue/Green 2014 Ford Mustang Grabber Blue 1999 Ford Ranger Green Dockside: 1968 Eltro 17 1985 Silverton 34C |
#2
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I don't recommend using anti-seize, just torque them to the correct spec and they will come out just fine without it.
In general I don't recommend anti-seize for anything other than keeping the tube of anti-seize filled. But if you do use it, the plug is being torqued up directly agains the head so I see no reason why the torque value would be any different, just because your threads are slimed up with that anti-seize junk. I did a search here for H9dco and came up with nothing, here is a link, good luck in finding them, I guess hard to get non-resistor plugs now. Non resistor spark plugs As an alternative you could get resistor plugs and put non-resistor plug wire ends on your current wires possibly? Or maybe that would require new wires.
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Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#3
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Thanks Gilly, I have read that you're supposed to use different torque values when you use anti-seize compound versus no compound. Just curious about others' thoughts on that.
Anyways, Happy Holidays!
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Streetside: 1987 Mercedes 300E Petrol Blue/Green 2014 Ford Mustang Grabber Blue 1999 Ford Ranger Green Dockside: 1968 Eltro 17 1985 Silverton 34C |
#4
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I can see where it would make it easier to turn in/out, but the torque value should remain the same IMHO. I would again also maintain that in a properly maintained engine the antisleaze is totally unneccesary.
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Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#5
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H9DC0 are available at the dealership. It might cost you a bit more, but at least you are getting the correct plugs.
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![]() 1990 190E 3.0L |
#6
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well, i'm a believer in using anti-seize on plugs on engines with aluminum or alloy heads where just a little dab will do ya
over the years have pulled alot of plugs with the head threads on them and see no downside from using anti-seize btw ~~~ have over a 100 bosch german h9dc plugs available PM me if interested ..
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1989 300ce smoke silver / brazil, in a constant state of flux ~~~ |
#7
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Quote:
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Streetside: 1987 Mercedes 300E Petrol Blue/Green 2014 Ford Mustang Grabber Blue 1999 Ford Ranger Green Dockside: 1968 Eltro 17 1985 Silverton 34C |
#8
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Quote:
I can't imagine getting in a state of tension looking for Bosch. RayH |
#9
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They just need to be non-resistor. NGK or Beru is fine as long as they don't have a resistor.
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68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500 Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i |
#10
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I used the Champion part number shown in my owner's manual; they were about $2.00 each, easy to get at my local NAPA and they work just fine.
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Robert Fini '12 ML350 BlueTec, 100k '06 E320CDI (x2) '05 T1N Sprinter 2500/Pleasure-Way Plateau TS, 70k '97 C36AMG, 319k (son's) '94 E320T, 249k '93 190E Sportline LE, 168k (daughter's) '84 190E-2.3/5spd (Stage Rally Racer) '66 230 W110 Sedan (Barn Find, Vintage Racer build in progress) |
#11
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The rule for antiseize or oil of any kind on a fastener is its OK to put it on the threads but not under the head. The head is where most of the friction occurs upon tightening. As long as you keep it off of the head area then it shouldn't affect the torque too much. There might be a spec somewhere. I would not reduce much on a spark plug. The consequences of it loosening are too serious.
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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine) 1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow) Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra |
#12
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I have searched for all the other brands and all are resistors. Even when I came upon some Champion plugs they were not what my manual recommends, which are S12YC, they were S12RYC )or something like that) and my understanding is that when there is an R designated in any manufacturer number of the spark plug it is a resistor in "almost" all cases.
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![]() 1990 190E 3.0L |
#13
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Plugs
My local Napa store did not have the non-resister Champions.
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![]() 1989 300E 2005 Acura TL 2011 Hyundai Elantra Limited Swing hard! Take chances! |
#14
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My napa could not get anything suitable for my 190E. A lot of plugs superseded, cross referenced, or came up as "OE" that were actually resistor plugs.
The guys I deal with at napa are really good, we searched for a while even got out actual books... A rarity in today's parts stores. R in a part number does imply a resistor according to NAPAs book. I ended up buying what rock auto claimed were their last 6 loose Bosch plugs.
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68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500 Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i |
#15
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You can still sometimes find the NGK BP6EFS or BP5EFS. The "6" is a slightly colder plug, specified for the Euro market (wonder why? Maybe cause they drive faster, or don't have as strict emissions stds?).
Both have been recommended by guys herein. DG |
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