edge,

I think supporting the outlet from the outside such as you have done is the way to go.

When my repair failed, it was definitely because of the coolant working on the inside repair with the JBWeld. It simply started breaking down.

Question, was your outlet broken completely off or just cracked? Did you put any Crazy Glue on it as well?

Haasman

__________________
'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)

About 1/4 was broken off. I krazy glued it back on but when I removed the hose it came apart again. Then I lost about 1/6 of the outer ring trying to get the end piece out. I think it fell down the hose, but I took the hose off and couldn't find it. Maybe I will get it when I do a flush this weekend. By reinforcing on the outside, you don't impede the coolant rushing it. Also clamping on the copper saves the plastic from getting crushed. I think this may hold because it's very snug. Even if the end ring falls off, I've still got the copper flashing to fall back on. It only cost $1.49 at Home Depot...but the girl just let me have it because it was late and we both didn't want to wait for a clerk to price it. Good luck.

It's been three years since I did the copper bushing fix and, to be honest, I am surprised it is still holding.

I am reminded of this thread because this past weekend, on the first warm day of the year, I had to do my annual radiator hose clamp-tightening. (The clamp loosens a bit during the winter, and on the first warm day of spring the car regurgitates a puddle of coolant through the loose space around the hose at the radiator neck.)

If I did it again, all I would get is just the bushing and steel/metal expoxy putty. That is all that is needed for a quick, cheap, permanent fix. (FYI: JB Weld is strong and heat resistant, but not waterproof, and will not endure, something I learned early on in the process.)

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2008 E350 4matic / Black/Anthracite

------------------------------------
Gone but not Forgotten:
2001 E430 4matic, 206,xxx miles, Black/Charcoal
1995 E320, 252,xxx miles, Black/Grey
1989 260E, 223,00 miles, Black/Black

Hello, my neck just broke off again on my 300ce I now have a little over

1/2" on my neck remaining. Would you recommend this fix? Sure would be a lot
cheaper than buying a radiator and $120 for labor.

What kind of copper pipe did you buy and where from?
What I want to do is clean the inside of the neck off with what? Place

some JB Weld and/or epoxy putty (any specific brand) inside the neck, insert
the copper pipe and let dry and that's it?

__________________
1986 560 SEC *Sold* < Big Mistake I miss my baby!
1988 300SE *Sold*
1989 300CE - current car, but not for too long

Talk about "back from the dead"

My meager tip about "preventive maintenance" is to keep an eye on your motor mounts, since the less vibration those hoses and clamps see, the better.

Yes,

I would definitely recommend it. I had none of my radiator neck left when
I did this fix about three years ago, and the repair is actually better when
there is none of the old neck left.

The copper was a 1-inch bushing from Home Depot. The epoxy putty was a
high-temperature steel/metal type. It may be with the other epoxies at Home
Depot, or in the automotive section at Wal-Mart or any automotive store.
(The regular JB Weld is strong and heat-resistant, but not waterproof, and
will fail. I believe, however, they now have a waterproof version.)

The bushing should fit tightly within the radiator neck. Push it as far in
as you can. It will stop when it hits the "L" part of the plastic radiator
pipe. Before you do that, dry the inside of the neck and sand it lightly.
Also sand the outside of the copper bushing to roughen it up a bit. Most
important, sand the remaining neck all the way back to the top of the
vertical part of the radiator pipe. This is what the epoxy adheres to, to
hold the copper bushing in.

Once the bushing is in, you will simply form the epoxy around the exposed
copper, and the remaining radiator neck, to form essentially a new neck to
replace that which broke off. Just form small portions of the epoxy into
"worms" and wrap and form them around the bushing, and remaining neck,
pressing and kneading the epoxy until it starts to stiffen. Then proceed
with the next worm until you have formed a new neck. If possible, mold in a
small bump or ridge at the top as far forward as possible. This will
prevent the hose from sliding off by blocking the hose clamp's movement.
(The radiator necks all have that.)

That is all you need to do. Let the epoxy cure for about two hours,
reattach the top hose from the water pump, and start the engine. You may
see some minor seepage from the reattached hose, which will stop once it
heats up and forms itself to the shape of you new epoxy neck. Then it will
stop. Also, although you will be able to over-tighten the hose clamp, there
is no need to do it. Very little pressure is required to keep the hose on.

Hope this works for you.

__________________
2008 E350 4matic / Black/Anthracite

------------------------------------
Gone but not Forgotten:
2001 E430 4matic, 206,xxx miles, Black/Charcoal
1995 E320, 252,xxx miles, Black/Grey
1989 260E, 223,00 miles, Black/Black

i had the same problem and i bought another radiator from ebay and
while putting that radiator in i let my son tighten the clamp on the niple leading to the resevor and we broke it off.... i went to autozone and they had a universal vacuum connector with flares on each end... i popped it into the whole and it works perfectly no expoy or anything.... and i leaks probably a tablespoon a month....

plus, the neck brake your talking about occurs from preasure so i hope this little 2 dollar thing will pop out instead of my neck breaking on the radiator...

Preventive maintiance:

Replace radiator every 10-12 years and you will probably never have a neck snap. Provided you use MB coolant flushing it every 2-3 years and don't over tighten the hose clamp.

__________________
2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Well, I have the whole top assembly that I purchased from the oem supplier for the radiator. You have to uncrimp the old one and recrimp this new one. You can have it for $35 shipped.

__________________
85 300CD Signal Red/Tan sold
83 300D Manganese Brown 109K
97 E420 Midnight Blue 197K sold
98 BMW 328i Vert White 100K, sold
95 BMW 525i White 125K, sold
93 BMW 525iT Red 193K, sold
95 E320 Green Wagon 125K, sold
94 E320 White 127K, sold
85 300SD 156K Grey (Annie), sold
84 300D Lapis Blue 170K (Judy), sold
99 ML 320 Black (lease), 1998 C230 White (lease)
00 Honda S2000 Red (lease)
86 Mercedes 300E (sold)
84 Porsche 911 Red (sold), 1965 Porsche 911 White (sold)

Edge -

Mine broke yesterday a.m. (on the 560) - Where did you order the top assembly from?

Kevin

__________________
"Dangerous with a wrench...and not smart enough to know it"

Stable (in order of acqusition):
'84 500SL, 280SEL (Euros)
'77 280SE. '90 560SEL
'79 450SEL 6.9,
'95 C280 (totalled by daughter 8/07)
'81 280SL (rescued) '88 300CE
'86 560SEC '95 C36
'01 CL55

DD's: '04 S500 4Matic (SWMBO)
'04 F150 Crew

I will sell you mine for $35 shipped. It is new and absolutely OEM. Email me at edgehillcm@aol.com if you want it. They don't sell it to retail. I had to impersonate that I had a radiator company.

__________________
85 300CD Signal Red/Tan sold
83 300D Manganese Brown 109K
97 E420 Midnight Blue 197K sold
98 BMW 328i Vert White 100K, sold
95 BMW 525i White 125K, sold
93 BMW 525iT Red 193K, sold
95 E320 Green Wagon 125K, sold
94 E320 White 127K, sold
85 300SD 156K Grey (Annie), sold
84 300D Lapis Blue 170K (Judy), sold
99 ML 320 Black (lease), 1998 C230 White (lease)
00 Honda S2000 Red (lease)
86 Mercedes 300E (sold)
84 Porsche 911 Red (sold), 1965 Porsche 911 White (sold)

Mine always had correct coolant and changed every 3 years.

The radiator still died with plastic imbrittlement. For epoxies, there is a operational temp range. Pulled a MG head one and the valve seat was being held in with JB weld. Well, I would have stake it and at least re-ground the offending valve. The prior owner relied on what appeared to be JB weld.
Fix was easy.
Boating story: Many ppl car epoxy repair kits. West was a big brand. Others opted for 4? or maybe it was 5minute epoxy which is WAY less expensive. The repairs came loose and reading the epoxy packaging- it wasn't completely water resistant!!
Metal fortified JB weld has probably the same epoxy matrix w/metal. Hence, it will have the same water/chemical resistance. The metal will give it a higher psi compression strength. Shear properties are a function of the epoxy, not the reinforcement.
Michael



Michael

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Michael McGuire
83 300d
01 vw A4 TDI
66 Chevy Corsa
68 GMC V6 w/oD
86 300E

Epoxy will not stick to plastic.

__________________
2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Well, I used some epoxy by the name of "Magnum Steel" by Devcon. I did the fix Monday and it cracked all the way around last night as soon as I pulled in my driveway. I'm not sure if it was due to the heat or what. It was supposed to be ok up to 300 degrees. It was supposed to permanently bond to steel, metal, plastics, etc. and it is supposed to be waterproof. I applied it on the outside of the neck. So, I cleaned off the copper pipe and chiseled away the excess epoxy. This time I used the same stuff, but I put the epoxy thicker on the outside of the neck as well as on the inside to bond the copper piece to the inside of the plastic neck. We will see how this holds up. I got my fingers crossed. I was thinking the epoxy I used wasn't working the best. We shall see. I am letting it dry at the moment and will attach the neck in the morning (5 minute setting time, 1 hour to completely cure).

__________________
1986 560 SEC *Sold* < Big Mistake I miss my baby!
1988 300SE *Sold*
1989 300CE - current car, but not for too long

I recently replaced the waterpump in my '89 300E and, thanks to the discussion here, I also placed an aluminium tube in the neck as well, although there were no leaking problems. turns out now I do have a small leak, not at the radiator neck, though, but at the point where the overflow tube (from the expansion tank) enters the radiator. there is an elbow that seems to insert into the tank via some 'latches' it appears...... anyone have any ideas of why it might leak there? Is there an o-ring inside?? Can't appear to get it off - easily anyway.

cheers and thanks