722.3 transmission removal - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ps2cho · #1 02-15-2010, 11:35 PM

Took all afternoon, but she is out!

Any comments/suggestions are greatly appreciated!

With crossmember removed.

Transmission mount was not too bad, but I bought a new one anyway. I did find the top bolt was loose though and I could turn it with my fingers...Not so good.

Interesting to see though is that Flex Disk has 30k miles on it. You can already see a very small gap emerging. This is testament to keeping an eye on this item.

With speedo cable removed.

Nice clean and washed exhaust shields...They were coated in oil before.

Breaking free for the first time in her life!

I don't see the main seal leaking as there is no oil that side, but I will do it anyway to save me having to pull it again in 20k miles

Going to wash and clean it tomorrow and figure out my gameplan to rebuild or not as it has no shifting issues at all. 100k on it. At the very least I will do the K1 kit and the main seal. I have been dumping fluid ALL over the road in the past year as it progressively got worse and worse.

ps2cho · #2 02-16-2010, 03:47 PM

My list:

Replace rear engine oil seal
Replace main tranny seal
Install K1 shift kit (opted against the ultimate one because it shifts fine other than 2-3)
Replace crush washers
Replace shifter bushings
Redline synthetic ATF and filter change

I think I am going to leave the insides of the transmission alone...Anything else I should replace since it is out?

Hirnbeiss · #3 02-16-2010, 04:23 PM

Nice pictures. It brings back memories (of back pains and head bumps)

latief · #4 02-16-2010, 10:13 PM

how about the seal right before the flex disk towards the end of the tranny? i think there is one over there...

For the front seal, my understanding is that there are two..which one is usually causing the leak?

As i commented on your other thread AWESOME JOB!!!

ps2cho · #5 02-16-2010, 10:22 PM

Anybody know what is involved in replacing the B3 band? Does it require pulling everything apart or can it be accessed with the cover removed?

I did some searching, but most people just said they handed it off to a mechanic. The part itself is $7.50 and it seems they give out with or without warning. If it is easy to access without tearing everything apart, I think it would be wise to do it since the cover will be off anyway to reseal.

Good idea about the rear seal towards flex disk, I had it on my list but forgot to post it.

Job is far from over yet...Biggest thing will be making sure it does not leak and then adjusting the modulator to proper specs. I took the car to an indy a few years back and he messed with the modulator after saying it was shifting too hard.

compu_85 · #6 02-16-2010, 10:30 PM

So how hard was it to get at the top flywheel bolts? I'm going to be doing this job soon myself...

-Jason

ps2cho · #7 02-16-2010, 11:19 PM

Difficult...Access to all but the top are possible from either side, but the top one you almost certainly have to reach with extensions all the way back to the propshaft. It was the only way I got it.

ps2cho · #8 02-18-2010, 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ps2cho

Anybody know what is involved in replacing the B3 band? Does it require pulling everything apart or can it be accessed with the cover removed?

I did some searching, but most people just said they handed it off to a mechanic. The part itself is $7.50 and it seems they give out with or without warning. If it is easy to access without tearing everything apart, I think it would be wise to do it since the cover will be off anyway to reseal.

Good idea about the rear seal towards flex disk, I had it on my list but forgot to post it.

Job is far from over yet...Biggest thing will be making sure it does not leak and then adjusting the modulator to proper specs. I took the car to an indy a few years back and he messed with the modulator after saying it was shifting too hard.

question bump.

iwrock · #9 02-18-2010, 04:45 PM

Ehhhh it was easier for me to yank the engine and trannie as a pair and do trans work than to pull them out seperately lol

ps2cho · #10 02-20-2010, 01:34 PM

nobody?

S-Class Guru · #11 02-20-2010, 06:41 PM

Ps2cho, it's been a few years since I disassembled my 722.3, so take this with a grain of salt. I tried my best to forget all that "fun".

1. I can't remember a B3 "Band", and couldn't find it with a quick memory jog looking at the tranny dwgs. There are the B3 brake clutch plates (4 soft plates) which are the big ones that control Reverse and 1st gear.
These are right in the front, around the K1, and should definitely be checked.
Per my experience and study here, these are the first to go. Mine were trashed, which is why I went into the tranny.

2. The K1 clutch uses smaller plates. I discovered mine had too much clearance even after new soft plates were installed, so I purchased a slightly thicker end plate from the dealer to tighten it up a bit. Check the plate spacing when re-assembling just to be sure it's okay.
You said K-1 kit, so I assume you mean new soft clutch plates.

3. There is a B-1 band around the K-1 clutch that I had to remove to get the B3 and K1 out. The servo has to be released (under the side cover) and it's under about 40 pounds spring pressure. Getting the cover plate and c-ring on while holding the spring down is kinda tough. Rig a lever using a bolt in the nearby threaded hole as a fulcrum, and it can be done without special holding tools.

4. You may know that there is a K1 shift-feel kit, consisting of a couple of little springs, that goes into the valve body. I installed this later, as I was still not able to get that perfect 2-3 shift i wanted. It worked really great.

5. You do have one of the tranny assembly manuals that are available online here? Do a search and download one if you haven't yet. You might also search some of my old posts about my journey into the B3 and K1, and the search for the best manual. at my age, it's good to have the old archives to refer to - Ha.

Oh, when you replace the engine rear main seal, loosen the seal cover/holder bolts, but before prying the cover/holder out, try to separate the oil pan gasket from it by gently sliding a razor blade just above the gasket. If you can leave the gasket attached to the pan without tearing, that will improve the chances of no leaks in that area. But still coat it with gasket sealer when reassembling.

DG

pawoSD · #12 02-21-2010, 12:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iwrock

Ehhhh it was easier for me to yank the engine and trannie as a pair and do trans work than to pull them out seperately lol

Same here....when my trans began its journey to death last July I just pulled the whole motor/trans out and swapped it....and put it back in.

Only took about 1.5 days from start to finish!

ps2cho · #13 02-27-2010, 04:29 PM

Alrighty starting to get deep into this now...Couple questions:

1) Are they normally this clean?
2) Are those bearings shown in the last picture meant to be bent over like that?
3) Should the output shaft have slack in it? I can move it around slightly, it is not solid. ^http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6EOSbfLfMGc once it finishes processing