95 E320 Throttle Eratic... Sometimes. What could it be?
My ASR and ABS light are on at times and once in a while the throttle acts up. It will not go until I floor it then it reacts but seems like a bad pot or something. It's really eratic. Then I'll start it up and drive more and all is well. What are some possibilities?
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You'll find lots of comments about faulty wiring..both the engine harness and the ETA unit itself..I find a couple guys rewiring these units for about $400..If the wiring is bad be careful inspecting it BC you can kill a functional unit by disturbing the bad insulation causing the faults you are finding..
But if your ETA is good..Hmm ASR and ABS lights on..a bit scary! Good luck, let us know..I have ASR as well and so far so good..Thanks to the previous owner putting in a new ETA.. |
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I know diesels mostly. |
Could this mean my ASR and ABS system is to blame? The throttle will do nothing until WOT then it will jump and then back down to nothing if I back off. It's like a 0 1 0 1 0 1 (off on off on off on) thing with the engine's power as I try to maintain speed.
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777funk, it's possible that worn voltage regulator brushes are affecting proper charging of the battery and the ABS & ASR lights are illuminating. You may want to inspect the voltage regulator brushes, especially if you have never replaced the voltage regulator.
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Hi Funk..I thought you said your ASR light was on, the yellow triangle? Slip resistance system which keeps one wheel from spinning and comes on if you hit gravel or ice. Its an optional feature I understand and I think my 94 coupe did not have it but the 95 wagon I have does have it..Maybe I misread your post about warning lights..All I know is the ASR cars are more computerized and have an ASR module which can cause issues and the engine control through the electronic throttle is more complicated. Troubleshooting my wont start issue I suspected the throttle and everyone wanted to know if it was ASR or non ASR..
good luck, keep us posted on your success.. |
That's a good point. I will check those brushes. Great starting point (and possibly finishing point). EDIT: I just checked the voltage at the battery with engine on and I get around 14.3 to 14.5V regardless of RPMs. The original owner said it doesn't act up for a while though so maybe eventually it rises. I'll have to monitor this next time there's a throttle issue. The car had bad tires for what that's worth.
I just read for codes and got the following: PIN 8 Trouble Codes: 9 O2S 1 (before TWC) - voltage too high, circuit open or voltage implausible 11 O2S 1 heater (before TWC) - Current too high/low or short circuit. 42 CAN communication from ASR, EA/CC/ISC module or diagnostic module (OBD II) faulty 46 Resonance intake manifold switchover valve - open/short to ground or B+ Pin 14 Trouble Codes: 2 EA/CC/ISC control module (N4/1) or Safety contact switch (M16/1s1) or Stop lamp switch or Cruise control switch or Actual value potentiometer or Starter lock-out/back-up lamp switch or engine speed signal or vehicle speed signal or closed throttle position switch or safety relay in EA/CC/ISC control module 11 Closed throttle recognition signal to engine control module (HFM-SFI or Left LH-SFI) |
Clean up the CPS sensor .Engine is getting late signal fron Crank Possition Sensor .Easy job and it will cost you nothing, only time
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EDIT: to update this. Started it today a few times and everything is good. Then all the sudden it was hunting for idle and no acceleration until I get to WOT. Shut it down and restart... All is well again. Interesting. EDIT #2: I just took out the crank sensor and it only has a little oil on the outside plastic. The metal magnetic tip looks clean. It does look a little ground. Not sure if it's factory ground or ground by the crank. By the direction of the scratches (fine), it looks like they're a different orientation than how the crank spins. |
Any more ideas?
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Next time it dosent accelerate disconnect airmass meter and seet if it does if it makes no difference, try replaceing your overvoltage protection relay , its the big cude looking thing behind battery tray towards firewall area
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