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Tech Help for Busted Ball Joint on 1993 W124
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I am a newbie to the board with some intermediate mechanical experience as a DIYer. I recently changed out the front pads, inspected the rear pads, and removed a ton of air from the brake lines on a relatively well maintained 1993 MB 300E 2.8 (W124).
2 days after completing that I notice a slight wobble and check and inflated all 4 tires. On the way back from the beach I pull over and as I am making a slight right turn... POP and dragggggg... :mad::mad::mad::mad: I have an attached the pic that I took immediately after it happened and before I had it towed home. Does anyone have experience and know the DIY level of experience to fix this mid-major job? As well as the options for MB loaner or local parts stores that may carry them. |
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http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/268050-how-replacing-ball-joints-w124-300e.html If you decide to go that DIY route I have the ball joint tool seen in those pictures |
I think for the '93 you have to replace the whole control arm.
Here's a DIY: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-W124/81-SUSPEN-Front_Wishbone_Replacement/81-SUSPEN-Front_Wishbone_Replacement.htm |
I have a homebrew press which has removed about 2 dozen W124/201 ball joints to date.
Its not too bad of a job, it can be tackled anywhere from complete caveman level of literally hammering out the old socket and using a jack to push the new in to DIYing a press to using a MB tool or replaceing the arm. It all depends on how much time/money you are willing to spend. |
Inspect the control arm bushings before you decide what to do, if you suspect them...and you should at 200k+...you are really better off buying new arms. At least for me it made sense due to the time involved to swap bushings and ball joints as I did not own the tool to do either on the W124.
If you do R&R the arms, be sure to mark the eccentrics in relation to the subframe prior to removal. It will make initial alignment settings that much closer. |
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Thanks all. And more time than money, but the tool at this point is what I need most.
I may just bite the bullet depend on the quote from a local mechanic then look to acquire the tool as I'll be looking to replace the other side soon considering the mileage on the car. |
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The ball joints for model years 93 - 95 are not replaceable. You are going to need to replace the control arm. Best to carefully inspect the other side as well. If the one side is that bad, the other side might not be much better unless it is not the original.
EDIT: Not all 124's had nonreplaceable ball joints. See post 14 by Zulfigar. |
+1 replace the entire arm. You will need a spring compressor and some wrenches, and the car will need an alignment when you're done.
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Option A:You could press in a new ball joint with a c-clamp or hammer it in place. Newer bushings are cheaper than a new control arm, but you will lose time. It's up to you what you do.
I'd choose the cheaper route, do my own labor and save $$$. Option B: Replace whole control arm, acquire spring compressor, pay for an alignment. Option A is a better choice in my opinion on a boring Saturday or Sunday. |
There is no option A. Ball joints are not replaceable on W124 model year 93 (and 94, 95).
EDIT: Not all 124's had nonreplaceable ball joints. See post 14 by Zulfigar. |
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the 95 diesels have replaceable ball joints - I replaced them on my car, the 93 300E 2.8 have replaceable joints (done them too) the only cars having non replaceable joints are the E320 E420 E500 or any car bought/built with sportline package. the picture in the first post is quite blurry - I cannot see any ears on the arm boss denoting its an arm in which the joints can be swapped out. |
I do apologize. I hate when people give incorrect information on forums.
That arm does look however to be one without the replaceable joint. I wonder if it had been replaced previously. A closer picture of the joint would help. |
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