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  #1  
Old 09-17-2009, 12:36 AM
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No power 3rd brake light W210 1997 E320

Like the title of the thread says, no power to the third brake light. Where do I start tracking this down? I checked under-hood fuse and there wasn't anything for a third brake light, same with the door-jamb fuse box (that one did have some sort of brake light fuse, but it wasn't blown). The regular tail brake lights work.

I removed the fixture and tested for voltage at the terminals that the wires plug into; reading was zero.

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  #2  
Old 09-17-2009, 08:07 AM
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On the fuse box on the side of the headlight switch.
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  #3  
Old 09-17-2009, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.B.DOC View Post
On the fuse box on the side of the headlight switch.
Thanks for the reply. Are you talking about the one to the left of the headlight switch - in the doorjamb, on the side of the dash? I checked fuse #2 in there and it's good. Is that the fuse you mean?
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  #4  
Old 09-17-2009, 08:41 AM
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Is this car equipped with a bad bulb warning system, if so is the third brake lamp bulb monitored? The 210 had tremendous issues with defective electrical attachment at the hat shelf. The contacts overheat allowing the plastic to melt and loose contact.
Bill
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  #5  
Old 09-17-2009, 08:52 AM
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Yes, it has the bulb warning system. Interestingly, the 3rd brake doesn't seem to be monitored. I guess I'm trying to determine where the contacts and wiring go beneath the hat shelf, since I have tested the exposed parts with my meter and there is no voltage there. As mentioned before, I checked fuse #2 in the cockpit fuse panel and it is OK.
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  #6  
Old 09-17-2009, 09:31 AM
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I would be surprised if the third brake light mounting isn't the problem. The light housing slides rearward into a pair of guides that locate it on two electrical contacts. Remove the light rear cover, in this case it will be the front as you look back at it from the seat. With the cover removed a attachment clip should be located and releasing it should allow the lamp housing to be removed. The contacts should then be visible, prior to testing with your meter use it to test battery voltage, I have seen many failed voltage tests due to equipment. With that being said you will test acrossed the two contacts for system voltage with brakes applied.
Bill
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  #7  
Old 09-17-2009, 10:05 AM
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What you describe is exactly what I did - like I said, I removed the fixture and tested at the contacts, and there was no voltage there with my wife stepping on the brake pedal. My VOM is functioning properly as tested at one of the tail bulbs.

The purpose of my post was to find out why there is no voltage at the terminals.
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86 W126 560SEL
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  #8  
Old 09-17-2009, 10:10 AM
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Do you have voltage @ the #2 fuse?

Have you traced any wiring that goes to the 3rd light and tested for voltage there?

Could simply be a defective wire, broken inside the insulation. It happens more than you think, and ususally occurs near the termination points (like the contacts). I don't suppose you have any insulation piercing probes...?
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Last edited by dhjenkins; 09-17-2009 at 10:22 AM.
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  #9  
Old 09-17-2009, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhjenkins View Post
Do you have voltage @ the #2 fuse?

Have you traced any wiring that goes to the 3rd light and tested for voltage there?

Could simply be a defective wire, broken inside the insulation. It happens more than you think, and ususally occurs near the termination points (like the contacts). I don't suppose you have any insulation piercing probes...?
Good ideas - I'll give these a try. It's been a while since I've had to troubleshoot an electrical issue; I need to get back into logic mode...
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  #10  
Old 09-17-2009, 11:01 AM
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OK, there has to someone watching that still has access to the MB net. Look at the diagram and see where the light monitor function is done. No single light circuit is fused seperatly. Newer cars used the head lamp switch and older used a multifunction relay in the fuse and relay center, I just don't remember. Someone give a hand here, I don't want to move half my garage to find a book. The light wiring doesn't go through a hinge as in the trunk or door hinges so wire failure isn't as likely.
Bill
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  #11  
Old 09-17-2009, 11:32 AM
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Headlight switch IS bulb-out monitor IS fuse box on side of dash IS most likely the problem.

Power comes from that unit to all 3 of the brake lamps.
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  #12  
Old 09-17-2009, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.B.DOC View Post
Headlight switch IS bulb-out monitor IS fuse box on side of dash IS most likely the problem.

Power comes from that unit to all 3 of the brake lamps.
Sorry MB Doc, and thanks for your help, but I'm not understanding what you typed. Are you saying fuse #2in the dash fuse box is most likely the problem? I checked it and it's fine??? I'm puzzled...
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97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280
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  #13  
Old 09-17-2009, 12:51 PM
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I just said that the headlight switch is most likely the problem.

As long as fuses aren't blown.
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Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times)
44 years foreign automotive repair
27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer)
MB technical information Specialist (15 years)
190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold)
1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold)
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  #14  
Old 09-17-2009, 01:04 PM
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So the 3rd brake light is wired through the headlight switch?
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08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280
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  #15  
Old 09-17-2009, 02:05 PM
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Smile

Thanks Doc, being as you have the diagram you can check the light wire color and pin assignment so he can verify a good circuit to the third brake lamp. Diagnosis complete
Bill

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