W124 brake hoses - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

mbzman · #1 08-18-2018, 12:29 PM

I am going to be replacing all four rubber brake hoses on my '89 300CE.

I am going with the ATE hoses. Are they equivalent to OEM spec? Anything to watch out for when replacing?

Also, I found that there is a rear axle brake hose. Where does that hose run through and should it be replaced at the same time? I couldn't find much information about it.

Lastly, I am replacing my muffler. How many rubber hanger mounts and donuts will I need?

Sugar Bear · #2 08-18-2018, 02:12 PM

I'd use ATE hoses without hesitation. Are they OE spec? I don't know but believe they are an OEM. Soak the threaded tubing nuts and bleeder screws a couple of days in advance.

Re: exhaust hangers...one up toward cat about 2"X2", one at top back of center muffler and two on rear muffler. On all of these I'd only use genuine MBZ parts, got so tired of these failing that I used OE and made fail-safes out of wire rope with u-clamps at the rear muffler in addition to the donuts. They work like a charm. You can go a step farther by replacing the bolts and nuts at the converter/muffler junction with stainless.

If replacing the brake hoses as maintenance that is a good move, consider replacing the rubber hose from the fuel tank to the fuel pump at some point if it is original, they crack and leak at the worst time.

I don't recall a rear axle hose other than the ones at each rear wheel.

Good luck!!!

mbzman · #3 08-19-2018, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sugar Bear

I'd use ATE hoses without hesitation. Are they OE spec? I don't know but believe they are an OEM. Soak the threaded tubing nuts and bleeder screws a couple of days in advance.

Re: exhaust hangers...one up toward cat about 2"X2", one at top back of center muffler and two on rear muffler. On all of these I'd only use genuine MBZ parts, got so tired of these failing that I used OE and made fail-safes out of wire rope with u-clamps at the rear muffler in addition to the donuts. They work like a charm. You can go a step farther by replacing the bolts and nuts at the converter/muffler junction with stainless.

If replacing the brake hoses as maintenance that is a good move, consider replacing the rubber hose from the fuel tank to the fuel pump at some point if it is original, they crack and leak at the worst time.

I don't recall a rear axle hose other than the ones at each rear wheel.

Good luck!!!

Good point on the fuel lines. I am a bit confused as to which hose I will need as i think it is called something else other that fuel tank to pump hose. Is there a part number for reference?

Hirnbeiss · #4 08-20-2018, 07:08 AM

Consider a flare wrench to reduce the chance of rounding the nuts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNlvgp_YfQ0

Zulfiqar · #5 08-20-2018, 06:05 PM

invest in some knipex cobra head pliers, the fasteners simply give up as soon as they sense a cobra head is about to be used on them.

tyl604 · #6 08-20-2018, 07:24 PM

$30 for one pair of channel locks? They must be pretty good. Have never heard of the company.

Mike Murrell · #7 08-26-2018, 01:01 AM

I replaced front/rear hoses on my MB last summer while doing brake work. I found flare nut wrenches to be more than adequate. Pre-soaking with penetrant may have helped as everything broke loose w/o issue.

ESchwab · #8 08-26-2018, 02:35 AM

I used ATE hoses on my '98 e300dt. I am happy with them.

Zulfiqar · #9 08-27-2018, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tyl604

$30 for one pair of channel locks? They must be pretty good. Have never heard of the company.

With the cobra head knipex i have literally applied so much torque on a siezed flare nut that the entire car was moving - I dont think you can do that with a flare nut wrench.

I also own two knipex lineman pliers which are about 18 years old now, solid craftsmanship on those too, the wire cutting jaws are still very sharp.

John5788 · #10 08-27-2018, 03:43 PM

I've stripped brake hose nuts with flarenut wrenches before. I now use a pair of Irwin 4LW vise grips instead:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004SBBE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sometimes the flarenut wrenches will flex because it's not entirely closed (you are missing one of the six sides) and a way around that is to just vise grip the wrench like so:

tjts1 · #11 08-27-2018, 04:40 PM

Jesus ****ing Christ it's just brake hoses not rocket science.

ds190 · #12 08-28-2018, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John5788

I've stripped brake hose nuts with flarenut wrenches before. I now use a pair of Irwin 4LW vise grips instead:

Sometimes the flarenut wrenches will flex because it's not entirely closed (you are missing one of the six sides) and a way around that is to just vise grip the wrench like so:

Some of us don't wrench as much as we used to , and forget tricks. Thank you for sharing those tips.

Zulfiqar · #13 09-03-2018, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John5788

I've stripped brake hose nuts with flarenut wrenches before. I now use a pair of Irwin 4LW vise grips instead:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004SBBE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sometimes the flarenut wrenches will flex because it's not entirely closed (you are missing one of the six sides) and a way around that is to just vise grip the wrench like so:

the knipex use this same principle, it actually bites the fitting from 3 sides and the torque you can apply on it is hilariously high. I love my knipex pliers - I have not met a pipe or bolt or nut that stood up against it.