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#1
03-29-2018, 12:46 AM
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380 SL stalling
Hi All!
My friend has a 1984 380 SL with about 300K on the clock. A couple of years ago, it developed a problem of stalling for no apparent reason. It happens within a few minutes after start up or she can go 20 miles and it suddenly quits. I replaced the ignition module and fuel pump relay, as I recall. It's been over a year since I last worked on it until recently, when I replaced the fuel filter. I replaced the two vacuum check valves and some cracked vacuum hoses. The oil temp sensor was loose and leaking oil, so I removed it and tested it in hot water and it worked fine. It's tight now, so it's got a good electrical connection to ground. The idle is just fine, except for an occasional hiccup with the RPM dropping, then it clears up and runs fine for several minutes, then does it again sporadically. The last time it stalled on her, it had sat for about 35 minutes at Costco, so she called me up to see if I could find the problem. The sparks were good and I got a few jolts there, but it wouldn't light up. Cracking a fuel line at an injector got some fuel weeping out when she cranked it. Then I was checking for power at the cold start valve (not knowing what it was at the time!) and there was no juice in Run position. When cranking, there was still no power to light up my test light, but then it fired up and ran all the way home just fine, except for those damn hiccups now and then! Any ideas on what to look for or has this problem been solved before? Thanks to all, Randy 
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#2
03-31-2018, 10:18 AM
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It's an intermittent electrical issue, the most infuriating and defeating problem in mechanics. Have been fighting nearly an identical problem on a Volvo V70 I sold to a friend that was running PERFECTLY for the three years I drive the crap out of it (I put almost 35,000 miles a year on a car). On hers, it turned out to be a bad ignition switch was a large part of the issue.
First thing I'd suggest is to look at the ignition switch. If she has a big wad of keys on the ring with the car key, that can beat a switch to death and cause exactly that kind of thing. Next thing I'd suspect is the O2 sensor. My 300TE would barely run with a bad one. They are pretty easy to swap and if you used the Ford ones and splice the wiring, they are a cheap experiment. Sadly, about all you can do is swap parts until you figure it out, which can be expensive and drive you absolutely crazy.
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#3
03-31-2018, 04:56 PM
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On my 1983 380sel, I had an issue where it would cut out for no apparent reason. It always started back up. It happened a few times and I couldn’t figure it out. It then cut out out and wouldn’t start. Unfortunately I was about 100 miles from home. I had it towed to my Indy and he found a faulty coil. Problem solved!
__________________
07 E350 4Matic wagon, 06 S430 4Matic, 99 SLK 230 retired W210 (x3), W124, W126
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#5
04-01-2018, 11:28 AM
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Coil breaking down could definitely cause that, but then you'd get no fire when it didn't run-end quote
a weak coil can still have spark, just not enough to fire the mixture under compression. what's needed is a kv tester- just an example, not an offer to sell or reccommend. good luck, chuck.
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