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#1
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question regarding a/c compressor oil/designation
A couple of years ago I put a Rollguy Sanden system on a w123 including the fan run when a/c on option. I left the car r12. Now it is back in in the shop. With the correct amount of r12 I'm getting vacuum on the lo side of compressor and 150 or so on hi side (ambient 75dF). No cold air, site glass is clear with plenty of air blowing out the dash vents.
My question is, when I got compressor it stated for r134. I worked with the assumption that if I flushed compressor out I could convert it to mineral oil for the r12 operation. Was this a good assumption or no? I'm still nosing around on this one. I will probably end up getting a p-flow condenser and convert to r134.
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Jim |
#2
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Sounds like you have a clog in the system or the expansion valve is pinched off/stuck. The compressor is the same for R12 or R134a, it's just what kind of oil it came with. If you use POE or PAO oil, you can run either refrigerant. Mineral oil is only for R12, PAG is only for R134a. POE or PAO are "universal".
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#3
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Save yourself the trouble and just use r152a. I'm coming up on my second summer with it and I'm still getting 20°F sometime less at the vents.
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1990 190E 3.0L |
#4
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You have a control problem or you're full of it. The A/C system has a control in it to prevent the coil from freezing. Older cars were a fluid filled probe with a set of mechanical contacts, newer cars used a thermistor poked in the plenum next to the coil to shut the compressor off when the coil reached ~38˚F. Letting the coil freeze lets all the condensation it's pulling out of the air freeze to it, forming a massive block of ice. Then your cooling stops and you defeated the purpose of having A/C.
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#5
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Quote:
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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model) 1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017) 2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017) |
#6
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Quote:
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1990 190E 3.0L |
#7
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I don't care about your temps at the vent. If you live anywhere except a desert with 0-10% humidity, you'll be experiencing an iced coil with those kinds of vent temps. I'm speaking from experience here, not just heresay.
R134a is the same cost or cheaper than R152a and on a properly charged and functioning system cools just as good if not better than R152a (especially at idle where R152a struggles). Last summer with it being 109˚ in the summer here, my SDL's A/C was blowing a cool 38˚ at the vents running on 134a and the completely stock system. When set up properly and charged by someone who knows what they're doing, it works just fine. |
#8
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Where? 18 oz can of r134a is like $43+ which includes a $10 core. Either way, OP will hopefully get his a/c functioning properly and can consider his options.
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1990 190E 3.0L |
#9
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Maybe in California? It's $4.12 for a 12 oz can here at Wal-Mart. I just bought some this last weekend to service the leaking Honda's A/C.
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