C230 stalling with rough idle
 

2006 c230 stalls at idle runs extremely rough changed the crank sensor and new plugs wires look good as well but don’t know why it stalls and runs so rough. Any help appreciated


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No Suggestions??


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which engine is in it?

V6


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I’d take a look at the maf sensor. Seems like there should be a code popping up. Was it ever recently overheated? A bad head gasket leak can cause similar symptoms. Just tossing ideas out there

No overheating just shakes real hard and dies


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Might need the MAF replaced but was aiming toward pump I got crank sensor code and misfires on I believe one side of the engine


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When I checked the plugs they all needed to be replaced but the side that has a code had really burnt tips like the person I bought it from just drove the car on three cylinders or sumn


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Ignition coil possibly. Have you confirmed spark in all cylinders?

No I haven’t but the guy I bought it from said all the coils were new and they look like they haven’t been used much


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I threw new plugs in and changed the vacuum things in the front of engine because one was missing


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I still need to do a fuel pressure test and figure out how to check spark in cylinders never perform that type of work a newbie with cars kinda


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It very much sounds like maybe a MAF problem cuz the car starts every time and just dies out like it gets fuel just doesn’t have proper ratio or sensor failed


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https://www.harborfreight.com/In-Line-Spark-Checker-63590.html


I use this it’s pretty easy.

There’s other ways by taking the plug out and then grounding it near the chassis to see a spark. I always get shocked so I don’t like that method. Swap a coil from a working side and see if the miss changes to the new side

I am going to get some more money over the weekend because I’m short just bought a bmw but will get back to you maybe Tuesday and let you know how it works out. Thanks for helping out


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With the maf., with the car running unplug the maf. There should be a very notable difference with the idle. Unplugged vs plugged. If no difference then I’d look more into the maf.

Found out by diagnostics from a mechanic it’s the timing chain [emoji24]don’t know if it just needs a new tensioner. Mechanic said a rod is probably bent and causing knocking though most likely. The chain isn’t broke because the car starts but timing might have skipped some teeth [emoji2365]


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Scan for codes 1200 /1208 are balance shaft fault perform
compression test compression should be over 150 all 6, if that's ok check the timing marks at 305 degrees cam sensor should be in inspection holes in the center, if only the right side exhaust is out may just need a new timing chain, if all that checks out get it to your shop and see if they can scan the car identify if a particular cylinder is misfiring , don't guess