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  #1  
Old 11-01-2020, 01:53 PM
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Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 82
Rebuilding m103 fuel distributor tool info

Hey guys, on my journey to restore my 260e I have come to fuel system.
Here is the problem with my car, on a cold morning I just have to tap the key it fires up no problem, but if I don’t let it warm up for awhile the first time I try to take off from a stop sign, the car doesn’t react to giving it gas for a second then BAM! It takes off, almost feels like it’s winding up but not reving.
I have replaced all of the following with the nicest quality parts I can get
-plug and wires
-cap and rotor
-O2 sensor
-fuel filter and air filter
-temp sensor for injection system
As well as the car has been swapped
To a manual transmission so it isn’t the transmission slipping. And the car does run better once warm, but does have a slight surging idle and I’d really like t get it as smooth as possible
So that’s why I have landed on rebuilding the fuel distributor.
I have seen countless videos on rebuilding it, and have zero hesitation on that, but I can’t seem to find info on where the fuel pressure tool hooks up and what stock levels should be.
If anyone can link a video, or a write up or just info on the steps to dialing it in once it’s been rebuilt.


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1989 Mercedes 260e
1972 GMC shorty van
1982 Harley Davidson Ironhead
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  #2  
Old 11-01-2020, 02:27 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Madeira Beach, FL
Posts: 57
There's a bunch of black magic involved in rebuilding a fuel distributor. I have yet seen one successfully done.

Have you checked the duty cycle?

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  #3  
Old 11-01-2020, 02:49 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayare View Post
There's a bunch of black magic involved in rebuilding a fuel distributor. I have yet seen one successfully done.

Have you checked the duty cycle?

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I went out and bought a multimeter that had the function Hz% but of it isn’t reading any Hz in any range on the #3 pin so I’m gonna exchange it thinking it has a malfunction. But I will be testing that.
I also replaced the fuel injector seals and thinking of replacing the boot on the bottom to rule out any vacuum leaks that could be causing the slight surge idle as well as the tiny brass fitting/ filter on the side just for peace of mind, maybe swap the injectors for new Bosch ones as well.
My plan was to get a donor one from a junkyard car and try and rebuild that one so if I fail my car is still drivable as it’s my daily.

Has anyone had theirs built by that shop in the south? I have heard good things but I really enjoy doing thing myself. But if they aren’t expensive maybe just trust someone who knows what they are doing would be best


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1989 Mercedes 260e
1972 GMC shorty van
1982 Harley Davidson Ironhead
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Old 11-01-2020, 02:55 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 949
Fuel distributors rarely go wrong and you can test it for even delivery.

Make sure that the plug for the eha valve has wires coming from the top (possible to plug it in backwards).
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  #5  
Old 11-01-2020, 04:26 PM
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Location: Oregon City, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by christuna View Post
Fuel distributors rarely go wrong and you can test it for even delivery.

Make sure that the plug for the eha valve has wires coming from the top (possible to plug it in backwards).


Thanks for the info, just checked and wires facing up.


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1989 Mercedes 260e
1972 GMC shorty van
1982 Harley Davidson Ironhead
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  #6  
Old 11-01-2020, 08:19 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 82
Rebuilding m103 fuel distributor tool info

So I got a can’t get a good reading to save my life. With the car warmed up, key on but not running, I have black in pin 3 and red in to pin 2. I have a 85% reading.
But once running it goes to 0%
If I swap the leads I get a 99.7%

Any ideas?
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1972 GMC shorty van
1982 Harley Davidson Ironhead

Last edited by Zacharyrip; 11-01-2020 at 08:31 PM.
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  #7  
Old 11-01-2020, 10:52 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Oregon City, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharyrip View Post
So I got a can’t get a good reading to save my life. With the car warmed up, key on but not running, I have black in pin 3 and red in to pin 2. I have a 85% reading.
But once running it goes to 0%
If I swap the leads I get a 99.7%

Any ideas?
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Well I figured it out so I’ll add this Incase anyone else has this issue
I posted this problem on benzworld and a guy in there came in with the solution
Turns out my car needed to be put in diagnostic mode(possibly being a California car), going to the battery and where you would read codes there is a button that you press and hold for a second a couple times until the light next to it comes on, once that light came on the multi meter read correct at 18.7, I adjusted it to 50 (+/- a couple) and it’s much better. Hope this helps someone as it did me
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1972 GMC shorty van
1982 Harley Davidson Ironhead
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  #8  
Old 11-02-2020, 08:36 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 871
9 pin obd pins means federal cars, 16 means calif cars. and diagnostic mode is only 16 pins.

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