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#1
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Need some insight on W124 cv half shaft with ASR
I'm helping a friend trying to resurrect a 1994 E320 with traction control. The left rear half shaft is bad. I now forget if it was the inner or outer CV that was bad, but I think outer though.
The axle is out. The aftermarket unit that he bought works, but I discovered the bolts keep backing out as the inner CV is a good 4mm thicker than OEM. At this point I'm looking for a clean used MB unit. From pictures online it shows that the outer CV should be smooth all the way across for cars with traction control. But what came out of the car has an outer CV that is kind of sectioned/raised. I found a couple axles, and they match what we pulled. But I'd like the ASR to work so... I know these cars are getting old. Hopefully someone still here remembers exactly what I'm talking about. From what I can see peachtree doesn't have these anymore either. This is a link to the aftermarket units out there. You can see the difference that they show between traction or without traction. I feel like either I'm looking at this in reverse, or they have the pictures reversed. https://www.showmetheparts.com/trakmotive/ thanks in advance. |
#2
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At the risk of being thought a radical, give a bit of consideration to obtaining longer bolts, and a bit of Loctite.
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#3
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For Loctite to work best the threads on the bolts and in the holes need to be decreased/dry.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#4
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yes longer bolts is an option now that the problem has been identified. But at the end of the day it's a low end knock off that sells for $55 on Rock Auto and the one review I can find on it says even after buying longer bolts, they got vibrations from it that they never had from the MB unit.
So if I have to put effort it to make it work, I'd rather at least attempt to get a good used MB part first. |
#5
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CVJ axles in CO may have one. They're good to work with and rebuild used genuine axles.
Good luck!!!
__________________
"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer |
#6
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Or it doesn't.
You cite other's rumors of vibration, but not your own experience. With the exception of the bolts does the shaft work correctly, or not? |
#7
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Quote:
I'll take a used OEM any day over that. As for whether it works or not, that is debatable and now no longer relevant. |
#8
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These guys were great. I was on hold a good while, while they checked their notes, but they gave me the info I needed to identify the axles. $425 for them to remanufacture the one we have. Not sure if we'll do that or try for a used. But I do now have my answers. Thank You.
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#9
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Quote:
I removed the axle and stubshaft, - popped the axle off the shaft, undid the crimp to see that the manufacturer couldnt be bothered to fill any reasonable quantity or quality of grease either, it was rusted inside and had maybe a tablespoon of grease, while the inner joint of this car takes 200 grams of grease according to the factory service manual (which is a copy of the mazda book) I sourced a used item from a junkyard - cleaned it up and installed it and the vibration is gone. This is becoming a nuisance, no matter what brand car you drive.
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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model) 1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017) 2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017) |
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