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#1
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How to remove ignition lock wiring harness
To the wonderful group of knowledgeable people out there:
Car: '96 E320 W210 I removed the knee bolster and took this picture behind the ignition lock from underneath. My question is, how do I remove the wiring harness that plugs into the rear of the lock? I see this little thing that can be pushed in as if it would release something, but nothing budges. Thanks. |
#2
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The key must be turned to the 1st position for that to move.
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MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES) ASE Master Technician Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times) 44 years foreign automotive repair 27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer) MB technical information Specialist (15 years) 190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold) 1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold) Retired Moderator |
#3
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Thanks M.B.DOC, once the key is in position, and the llittle button is depressed, the rectangular keeper slides smartly in the direction away from the wires, and the connector comes off nicely. Here's a picutre for others who might need to do the same thing.
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#4
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How to remove ignition tumbler 96 E320
Just curious, is removing that part needed to work on ignition? or what? why did u need to remove yours?
And now, how do you remove the ignition tumbler for replacement, E320 1996. Having a sticking ignition problem and in the process of trouble shooting I did remove the panel below the steering wheel/column the one above the gas and brake pedals, to get to the ignition, and found where the ignition switch interlock ended on the ignition unit assembly, no kidding right? it had the silver turning end to it, I twisted it off while the key was in at the first turn position (the one after inserting the key pass the stuck ignition position) and the key turned like silk but it just wont come out of the ignition, I was tempted to leave a key in the ignition and keep it concealed to eliminate the sticking problem, but the thought of someone getting into the car and having easy access to starting and driving off with it, slapped sense back into me. But the point is that the key turned flawlessly like silk with the ignition switch interlock cable detached, which seems to tell me that the tumbler is working fine so it must be something with that cable that's causing the problem. Any ideas and does anyone know where the adjustment for that cable is and how to adjust it? More news I finally dared to venture deeper into trying to adjust the ignition shift interlock, back into the center console removing it completely this time then removing the cold/heat air duct to get at the end of those two cables on the right of the gear lever covered with a plastic cover which you would just pry off with a flat blade screwdriver, but be carefull use the flat part of the scr driver to twist and seperate exactly at the studs where the plastic is attached to, two of them. One cable is for the ignition lock release and the other for the break pedal release, tried a few adjustments from the two small bolts that coincidently I could see without moving all the other stuff but it was worth it to actualy see what was happening when I made adjustments to the cables. The're were both hook latches on opposite sides of the gear shifter mechanism under where you just took the black plastic part off from. Well needless to say nothing with MB couls be moderatly easy and all the above procedure did not resolve the sticking ignition but I now know have more knowledge of how some of the parts move and work ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by black beaut-E; 03-17-2008 at 03:13 PM. |
#5
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Not very knowledgeable myself, but I don't think you need to remove that to replace the tumbler. You do need a special tool to remove the metal ring around the lock on the dash though.
I was fooling around the ignition lock area because I was suspecting it as the culprit for my intermittent "crank but no start" and "no crank at all" problem. It turned out I was right. I had the lock changed, and never had a problem again since. One other symptom I noticed each time the intermittent problem occured, was that the climate control display wouldn't come on with the key turned to position 2. I wouldn't leave the key in the ignition if I were you, but for other reasons. First, I don't think you can lock the car with the key in the lock, and second, doing that over an extended period would probably drain your battery, because as soon as you insert the keys, certain electronics are turned on in the background. |
#6
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I have a 1986 E3 20 with the same problem I Can’t turn my key at all I’m wondering can I still remove the ignition module tried pushing in that button and it won’t come loose
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#7
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1999 S320 W140
Hey Sir
I need help on my ignition lock/switch issue. I had issue with my switch so I replaced it but, I have another issue. The steering column won't lock and the buzzer always on when the key is on position 0 and 1. Any idea? |
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