https://youtu.be/S04PnYxS0W8?si=JGBx4XRSrkySpWNo

Hey Sugar Bear,
I posted the link to the video and kit I purchased from **************.com as this YouTube video can explain it better than I can. The install tool to slip over the race without rolling the seal was a piece of PVC pipe that was the same diameter as the race. I just put a little grease on the pvc pipe slipped it into the seal and then slid it onto the race.

If the lip of the seal is up on the race IMO you are good to go. I don't believe the seal being flush is any issue at all.

__________________
"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

I just ended up pulling the seal and replacing the crank seal again.As it was pressed in a bit far after looking at it some more. So far so good as of now. Cooled the shaft and heated the balancer up to the engines operating temp range with a torch being careful not to warp or crack it. Went on semi easily and then torqued to spec with the 2 new dowel pins in there. Kept everything lined up obviously with the timing marks.Brand new 6 pulley bolts with a little bit of red loctite on the end and torqued to 35 nm (25-26 foot lbs). Installed all the belts and tightened everything up. Cleaned the clutch fan and installed with new bolts that the heads of the bolts are harder so they shouldn’t round off. Fired right up with barely a turn of the key after sitting for 3 weeks. 279,000 miles .

https://youtube.com/shorts/umgZ3PylGfM?si=nDBeV17dkfJYBa8z

Good work, drive it and don't be too easy on it. Get it to full temp and use the right foot.

__________________
"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer