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#1
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can't depress clutch
The clutch on my 79 240D won't go down. The car has been sitting for over a year and I am trying to get it back in working order.
Is it the clutch slave cylinder? I hate to replace it when it might be the master cylinder.... |
#2
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That happened to me once, the rubber hose between the master and slave got clogged cause some rubber slipped out from around the crimp, real weird. I just cleared it out with a drill bit.
Try disconnecting the line between the master and slave and press the clutch, that at least tell you which one is bad.
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5 speed '91 190E 2.6 320,000 mi. (new car, fast, smooth as silk six, couldn't find any more Peugeots) 5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.5l Turbo Diesel 266,000 mi. (old car, fast for a diesel, had 2 others) 5 speed '01 Jetta V6 (new wifes car, pretty quick) 5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.2l Turbo Gas 197,000 mi. (wifes car, faster, sadly gone just short of 200k ) 5 speed '83 Yamaha 750 Maxim 14,000 mi. (fastest) 0 speed 4' x 8' 1800 lb Harbor Freight utility trailer (only as fast as what's pulling it) |
#3
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I vote for the slave.
Water collects at the lowest point (the Slave), and rust seizes things up. It seems unlikely that the master would seize. Also, (statistically) across the years with various cars, I have had far more slaves fail than masters, like 1 Master to 5-6 Slaves. 1) Open the bleeder. If the pedal moves and fluid squirts out, it's the slave. 2) If the pedal does not move, slave may be too clogged to bleed- disconnect the hose at the Slave. 3) If the pedal moves now, and fluid squirts out, it's the Slave. 4) If there is no dripping, or only a little dripping, but the pedal still does not move, hose may be clogged like the problem Jim had (very unusual case)- remove hose at Master. 5) If the pedal still does not move, I lose my bet, and I'm a humbled diagnostician. Best of luck
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1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi. |
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