190E ignition switch
 

help. my ig switch has locked. cannot turn key. have dropped bottom panel on dash (no good)need to get switch out. how do i do this please. will the barrel come out in situ. or do i have to strip the top dash out. looks a major job to me. oh its a 1986 190e 2.3 16v( probably the same as an ordinary 190? regards kc (looks a great site to me wish i had found it sooner)

If u look at the switch, u will notice 2 tiny holes on opposing sides of the switch.

U will need a thin but rigid wire (abt 2mm thk galvanised wire or something like wire clothes hanger, welding rod - u get the idea).

Abt 8 inches long, bend it in half (u-shape). With the key still stuck, insert both ends into the 2 holes and push all the way in until u feel a click. This would release the ignition key switch barrel.

Pull at the key while maintaining "push" on wire and the whole barrel should slide out. Replace the ignition key switch barrel with a new one. Of course, not it means that you have 2 keys, the old one for the doors/trunk and the new one for the ignition. That's how my 190e turned out. No worries.

However, mine is a 1.8 and i didn't have to remove the dash bottom panel. I think on the 2.3, u need to remove the bottom panel first, then proceed as mentioned.

I will scan the diagram of the u-shaped device with it's dimensions (from my Haynes manual) and e-mail it to you soon. Gimme a couple of hours coz it's in the office and now, it is midnight in my home town...

Hang on and prevail!

Hi RR

I think you are well in the dwang!

If you cannot turn the key - you will NOT be able to withdraw the barrel with the special tool described above.

A small dollop of PE might do it;-)

Seriously this has been covered many times - do a search.

Good Luck

ig switch
 

thanks for your replies. the ignition key is not stuck. it just will not turn. when i insert it regards kc

Hi RR

You have me confused. But it is probably me!

Have a look at this thread from another forum UK based and see if it rings any bells for you.

http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/viewtopic.php?t=1943&highlight=ignition+barrel

NormanB

PS The 'key point' is you need to be able to turn the key to withdraw the barrel with the 'special tool'.

RR,

As Norman says, stuck in this context means won't turn. And as Norman says, check the archives.

With the consequence being you or a garage taking a big drill to the ignition tumbler, I'd spend 15 minutes or more jiggling the key in the tumbler until it catches. If you're lucky and it catches, do NOT turn it back to the 0 position until the ignition tumbler is replaced. You should be able to move between 1, 2 and start with no problem. Just don't go back to 0. A sore forefinger is nothing compared to the headache and/or cost of breaking the ignition tumbler.

Sixto
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

JUST did this!
 

Hey, I feel for you! I just came outside from fixing my ignition switch.

It locked up on me a few days ago outside of Blockbuster videos. Key would not turn, so I had it towed to a nearby shop, where they said the only option was to drill it out and replace the cylinder, and the expensive part that contains the steering wheel lock, etc. This job would run about $700 at the MB stealer, and the shop where I was wanted about $400(+/-) to do the job.

Quickly, I jumped into a nearby phone booth and changed into the superhero known as Cheap Bastard, who slayed the bill with his miserly habits. Cheap Bastard requested that they drill out the lock, but go no further. After doing this, Cheap Bastard reasoned, the car could be started with a screwdriver until funds could be found to do the job correctly.

I drove away for $95 bucks as Cheap Bastard waved and rode off into the sunset.

:D

Now, I could have stopped there, but instead I ordered a new cylinder and key for about $38, and a new black sleeve thingy (bezel?) that screws over the lock. I saved the original chrome trim ring.

When I got home today, I found the parts on the doorstep and started the installation process, only to find that the real problem was (and likely is in your car) the dead bolt lock in the expensive part (I forget what it's called). It seems even with a new cylinder installed, the key wouldn't unlock the dead bolt and I had to take it out, moving the dead bolt away with a screw driver (it takes some practice, so be a little patient with yourself).

To keep the dead bolt from causing me any more grief, I wadded up a little bit of paper and shoved it in the gap, holding the deadbolt latch permanently in the open position. I then installed the cylinder. Using a "paper clip in the pinhole" as described in other posts, I held down the little latch on the side of the cylinder while screwing down the black bezel thingy over the keyhole.

So now i have a working key (it dsoesn't match, Cheap Bastard bought the universal one versus paying $95 for a custom ordered matching lock.)

True, my steering wheel no longer locks, but since when has that ever been a theft deterrent in the first place?

For about $150 (including the tow), a few hours of my time and some liberally applied foul language, I took care of this and you can too.

:D :cool: :p


Gil

On my 190e, I had problems turning the key, especially when the steering wheel locked. It took a little wiggling before it would turn.

So I looked to my trusty Haynes manual for help and found out abt the "special tool". A friend of mine (who works in a metal shop) shaped a couple of pins for me and I was on my way back with a new ignition key barrel for a DIYer.

However, pushing the pin in as instructed, I could not get the barrel to come out (pulling at the key in position 1).

After 2 hours, I gave up on this DIYer and was on my way to a Merc shop.

Even those guys took abt an hour b4 they could get the damn barrel out. Turns out, the retainers at the end had broken, thus pushing the pins would achieve nothing.

Well, 20 bucks for labour? It was well worth the money.

Btw, the barrel cost me 60 bucks and now, I have 2 keys. The old one for the locks and the new one for the ignition switch.

That keyless alarm system i saw at the mall is beginning to look kinda' appealing right now...

Once you get the key to turn to position 2. Look at the following.

If you search, include the word TUMBLER in your search.

Search on "Help! Newbie has Tumbler problem" A picture of the U shaped tool that you will insert into the 2 pin holes as Azhari describes.

If you want the new key/tumbler to match your door and trunk. You must go to a dealer and order it. Bring your Vehicle Registration or some proof of ownership. MB dealer will not sell the new one without proof.


Good luck

which now explains why i need 2 goddamn keys instead of 1...:D

ig switch
 

hi guys just got back in from the merc. have taken the drivers seat out. (so as to make room) it looks like i have got to drop the steering column bottom shroud(how??) looked behind the dash all the main cables from the steering go across the lock looks like a bloody nightmare to me / any ideas? as there is no room at all. i wait your replies regards kc

ig switch
 

hi me again. the two holes as mentioned in the reports are situated at 5 to 5 (on the clock face) it is solid behind these holes at this position. so i cannot introduce any wire as suggested. the key position is at 12o.clock

If it is solid behind the holes then the key may not be at the number 2 position. Look in your owners manual, I believe it shows the positions.

Are you able to turn the key clockwise past the 1 position? This is the first step. If so do NOT turn the key back to the original position as was previously stated.

You should be able to see the holes.

Look at the thread "Help! Newbie has Tumbler problem". In figure 21.6 it shows the tumbler/barrel. You can see the hole and the slot/hole running through the tumbler. You can also see a little black tab between his thumb and index finger. This black tab is what you are trying to push down with the pin/wire you insert in the hole. Push this tab in and the tumbler comes out.

Not sure if you have a screw off black collar or if it just pops off when you release the tumbler as was the case on my E320. Any 190 owners know?

Hi RR

I can see you are making progress of sorts............

While not wishing to piss you off could I respectfully suggest you read what I and others have posted here and read the other 'barrel'/'ignition switch'/'steering lock' posts on this and the other forum I linked you to.

The idea is to benefit from the hard earned experience of others before launching off into the dark and often expensive journeys of discovery.

All the best

Sometimes the "custom cylinder" comes with a "free key"
 

Since rolls royce's alter ego Cheap Bastard mentioned the high cost of the custom keyed lock cylinder, I thought I'd share a bit of custom lock cylinder trivia. My 1986 300E came to us with only one key, so I anted up I think $30 at the dealer to have a key made from the VIN. Even back then the ignition was a little flaky and the key had to be wiggled sometimes before it could be turned. A few months later, the wiggling thing got bad enough that I decided to replace the lock cylinder. Ordered one of those, also custom keyed from the VIN for like $80, and when it arrived, I was surprised to find it came with a nice new key, our third. I told the parts guy if I'd known the cylinder included the key I would've ordered the cylinder instead of the key the first time and saved $30 in the long run. He said they don't *always* include the key, it is just that the way they make the custom keyed cylinders is to make a key first from the VIN, then match the cylinder to the key. Sometimes they leave the key in it, sometimes not. The moral of the story? If you're sure you need a new lock cylinder, and might need a new key, order the cylinder first. You might kill two birds with one stone. Oh, yeah. Getting the cylinder out with a homemade wire thingy ultimately worked, but I must've spent three hours at it off and on over several days before I heard the happy click and out it came.

try this, get a pair of needlenose vise grips and a can of penetrating oil. Lube and shake, if it'll turn one more time, get the cly out, then test the steering lock. If not, time for the hamfist methoed and chisel it out.



Joe

ig key
 

hi rr here just lashed out £15 on a haynes manual for a 190e. trouble is mine is a 190e cosworth. picture looks very nicechapter10/16 lots of room but my merc has the ig key as part of the top assembly. so it looks like i will have to take the whole bloody dash out to get at the back. can i just undo the pinch bolt release the detent pin without having to get the ig switch out first ?? and get it all out together.

Will it help any to pull the gauge cluster? That just takes two wire hooks and disconnecting some wires.

Sixto
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

Yup, getting the barrel out is a pain in the ass even with the recommended tool. I tried for 2 hours and gave up. Even the MB tech took slightly over an hour to get it out!!!

RR - you got a Cossie? I have seen one of those and it looks as though the dash has gotta come out first...anyone else own/seen a Cossie and care to confirm this?

I'm the Cheap Bastard!
 

Actually, it's me who has the alter ego, Cheap Bastard, but he's been known to make appearances everywhere in time of financial woe.

Gil
:D

PS: What the hell is a Cosworth Mercedes?? Hope it's better than those horrible Cosworth Vegas from way back.

Humm.....try a paper clip, comes out in about 5 seconds, order from MBZ, use your new key (flat blade screwdriver) for 3 or 4 days and, Pa..Pow! you get new cylinder with proper key!

Magic, well under $50.00

I love these car's

ig switch
 

message for gil. a cosworth is a 190e tuned by cosworth. tuned head. cams.formula one type exhaust(bunch of bananas). churns out 185 bhp. very quick. 147mph. mb use to race them

Isn't the head in the 190E 2.3-16 made by Cosworth?

Sixto
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

Any cosworths still around?
 

I never heard of those cars.. how many did the make, what years, and are any still around?

I'm sure they were never sold in America, but still it'd be a neat car to own.

Gil

ig switch
 

yes it is cosworth eng head. comes with factory rear spoiler deep front spoiler. sidespanel skirts. lowered. sport suspension. half leather trim. i have after market alloys.(3spoke as per the mb emblem).they use to race them in europe. years ago one did 50.000 km in 200 hours at an average speed of over 150 mph not bad is it. anyhow its bloody raining now and the in switch can wait.off on vacation chris day will have to take the roller.(tuff decision)

Is it an 8-valve head or a 16-valve head? What's the model number (201.xxx) and engine number (102.xxx)?

Thanks,
Sixto
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

Are you already drilling it out?

I had the same thing on my 190E. Key didn't even turn to align the holes for removal. Then I got a very helpful hint from this forum to vibrate it.

Insert the vallet key (steel on without plastic). Use something to generate vibrations on the key. I my case this helped and I didn't have to drill anything out.

I ordered a new ignition lock on vin number and got a shop tumbler during shipment of new one. I did only change tumbler itself.

The tumbler may sit thight there so do not give up on it on the first time swhen you insert removal wire tool. And it's very important that you got a diameter on the wire that is as large as possible. Otherwise it willl be harder to get locking plate pushed down. Also, if I recall right there should be only a locking plate in the upper hole.

Click here for my thread

BTW: Cosworth developed the 2,3 16 valve engine for Mercedes. This should be the same engine as any 16 valve US cars. And same bodykit.

ignition key jiggling
 

My wife has grown tired of jiggling the key to get it to turn CW to start the car...I say "ahh, c'mon honey, just jiggle it a little, I never seem to have any troubles" :D

Decide I better check this AWESOME site that has helped me plenty in the past and lo and behold I better get my A$$ in gear!!

Anyway, I'm a bit confused...Fastlane has the Ignition Lock Cylinder for $74 but I've seen posts that I can get it for less then $50, etc. Does the Cylinder from Fastlane come from my VIN so that I maintain only one key for ignition and doors (my wife would NEVER allow two keys :p) or is it a completely different key? AND, if it is the same key, how do they validate I am the correct owner as it has been mentioned that you need registration, title, etc. to provide proof of ownership??

Well, as always, I thank you so much for all of your help! Mike

I think that on-line and mail order parts places can no longer order keys or tumbler cut to a VIN. *BUT* check with Phil.

I'm guessing that what you get for $74 is probably a generic key and tumbler combo.

Some folks get a key when they order a tumbler cut to VIN from the dealer, some get just the tumbler. I've gotten a key twice. It was something like $110 for a W126 tumbler from the dealer.

The dealer checked my driver's license and a photocopy of my registration.

Sixto
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

If your lock set up is the same as mine (and make sure it is) then you'll want to see this:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/200554-1987-300e-key-stuck-ignition-post1640662.html#post1640662