Make the sqeaking stop!!! Strut Problems

I figured out where the squeking is coming from this morning. FYI, my left front tire was squeking whenever i turned the wheel, so I jacked it up and had a friend turn the wheel while i listened. Turns out my poor never changed (146xxx) struts are on there last leg and squel when i turn the wheel. So I was hoping there was a quick solution until i get my check. Like could i pour/spary/drop some sort of lubricant where the shiny metal shaft comes out of the strut?? that noise is just so annoying...btw, it only happens at low speeds, ie. parking or just driving thru a parking lot.

Thanks in advance

to add, I went upto a tire shop today to see how much 4 new shocks/struts would be, got a quote of $577. Not too bad, less than I would expect and that includes a 4-wheel alignment. The only problem is I have to get all my suspention linkage work done before all this or else the alignment will come right out...looks like this is gonna be a costly expence, 1500??? sure hope not

[MTI]

If the car is jacked up, why would the strut make a sound when the wheel was turned since it's not being "stroked"?

You might want to check to make sure that the sound isn't coming from the tower mount of the strut or the mounting point on the hub. If it is coming from the strut body, then something in the front suspension is really out of whack, causing some sort of torque on the strut.

For alittle bit more info, when the wheels turn, the metal shaft going into the strut turns also, thats where i think/positive the sound is coming from. I've attached a picture to beter show ppl what im talking about. also the struts have been leaking fluid for quite some time now, keep that in mind.



This picture was takin when the car was under load, it's snowing here now and i don't really want to get into jacks in this weather

[Moab_dan]

I thought I had the same problem on my 190e. Bouncing the front left hard would get a bad squeek. Jacked up the car turned the steering wheel, horrible sqeak from the front left of car. Thought it was a strut, on a hunch changed the ball joint (much cheaper). When I took the old joint out, it was dry as a bone and full of dirt.
Squeek all gone now. Also eliminated a vibration I couldn't figure out.

My 2 cents!

Ok, so i got a quote for my ball joint a few months back because I thought I had that problem with the other front wheel, it was about $320. Does this sound right to anyone?? That was a Mercedes specalist which does charge more, I was debating in taking it into my local gas station where iv takin it before and see how much they charge.
thanks

I was going to change the ball joint myself, but it turns out i just don't have the tools...coil spring compressors, ball joint press....etc...

[mplafleur]

I had both ball joints replaced last year. It was $220 total.

[csnow]

That sounds high for just the balljoint on one side.
If you get a whole new complete arm in the deal, ok.
This procedure is not rocket science, so you might be able to find a better deal.
The only potential 'gotcha' is that if they replace the control arm bushings, the bushing orientation is important, and a non-MB mechanic is unlikely to be aware of this.

$220? really. Well I'll find out was $320 all intailes... But hey, i just rememberd. I took my car to a shop a few months ago, they checked all the joints and linkages and said they were all fine, now I don't know if the cold weather could have done a number on the joints, but i just checked them out and they seem all in good condition, no cracks in the rubber shroud. Could have something gotten under the bellow and slipped into the strut???
Thanks for the help so far

I had the exact same noise, it was the left ball joint.
I got the ball joint from an online benz shop for $52, rigged a coil spring compressor from bolts and a piece of chain, and autozone loaned me a little press, 3 hrs later, new ball joint in place.
Examine the boots around the ball joint closely, perhaps they are cracked in the back or something that has let water in and thus dried them out.
Good Luck.

[csnow]

The balljoint boots do not need to tear for the joint to fail.
They are made of a very pliable rubber that is not as prone to tearing or cracking as typical boots found on other cars.

In order to check for balljoint play, the control arms need to be supporting the weight of the car on jack stands. Otherwise, the force of the spring will take up the play, and mask the problem.

They may indeed be fine. Your struts could be the whole problem. The struts are the upper steering pivot point as you say. They may even have some ice in them, and perform poorly in cold weather. I've seen that before on a different car.

The thing is, at 146k, if they have not already been replaced once, the balljoints are probably at or towards the end of their useful life anyways.

On the other hand, if you are very lucky (and there is no visible balljoint play)- the struts are very easy to replace, and you need them anyways, so you do not have much to lose. Put another way, there is not much in terms of a labor savings advantage in doing the balljoints at the same time you replace the struts.

Best of luck.

More evidence leading to the strut.. Today when i got out of my car, there was a slight squel. So i went over and pushed up and down on the strut. Amazingly it let out a huge squels. Then i took it over to my local gas station and he agreed it was the strut.
heh, well atleast i'll be spending money on something i'll notice...
thanks for everyones help