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  #1  
Old 02-28-2003, 08:43 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Mountain Island Lake, Charlotte NC
Posts: 376
valve cover leak on my 560sl

How difficult is changing the Valve Cover Gasket? I think that this is my problem. I have noticed a burning smell coming from the engine. The car isn't running hot at all and isn't burning oil.(except maybe from the gasket). There is definitely a burning oil smell.

Is this a hard job?

About what would it cost to have a private shop do it?

Thanks!

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  #2  
Old 02-28-2003, 10:22 PM
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Nothing to it...

Just be careful pulling it off. Yepending on which side, you have to move stuff out of the way to get it off. Be careful not to overtorque the bolts putting them back, and might be smart to replace the crush nuts that hold it down if they are shot.

The gaskets don't cost much. Would be a good time to check out the chain and rails while you are at it. Do a forum search on timing chain replacement and there is a great pictoral on chain replacement on a 560 sel (sames setup as the 560sl, just different body style.) If you are uncomfortable doing the work yourself, might be wise to have a MB mechanic show you the chain stretch and such. Should be about a $100 job. Try to get them to walk you through it so you'll understand what they are talking about.

Good luck.

J. Boggs
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  #3  
Old 02-28-2003, 11:03 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Mountain Island Lake, Charlotte NC
Posts: 376
Thanks J for your suggestions. I recently had the timing belt changed so I'm probably good to go with that. Would/should the mechanic have replaced the valve cover gasket when they did the timing chain?
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Rob Armstrong, Charlotte, NC
Mountain Island Lake
RobAinCLTNC@hotmail.com

2004 VW Passat GLS TDI-50k
2006 Honda Odyssey EX-L 7k
FOR SALE 1991 300TE 228k

2003 Subaru Outback 57k Silver/Black-SOLD
2005 C230K 18k Pewter/Grey-SOLD
1997 E420 108k Black/Grey-SOLD
1986 560sl 200k Black/Palimino-SOLD
1985 300sd 340k-SOLD
1979 240d 170k-SOLD
2000 Volvo V70XC-POS couldn't sell fast enough
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  #4  
Old 03-01-2003, 01:16 AM
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Location: So. Cal
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Yes, new valve cover seals should have been part of the job. They are soft and pliable when new, but become hard and brittle with age. I've read that if the seals have been on for 3 months and the cover is pulled, use a new seal.

When I did the timing chain on the 4.5 last weekend I used new seals. The old seals had been on for almost two years, were still pliable but had a definite indentation from the head, even after being off for a day.

Passenger side cover is a piece of cake, just the four bolts (10mm). Driver's side requires removal of the brake booster vacuum line and the fuel lines from the fuel cooler to the fuel distributor, plus the four bolts.
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  #5  
Old 03-01-2003, 03:36 AM
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PRIOR to removing the covers . . . sight along the LOWER length of the valve covers above the exhaust manifolds to see if the VALVE COVERS are WARPED . . .

These covers are NOTORIOUS for WARPING when HOT and straightening back out AFTER cooling down . . .

Check when HOT . . . If you see a WARP . . . REPLACE BOTH COVERS . . .

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