Have a 1986 300SDL. Can't open the trunk. All other locks function fine. When I push the button the lid moves up about 1/8" but no farther. Vacume is o.k.. No emergecy lever under the back seat on this model. Nothing in the trunk to hang up on. HELP !!!!

Forgive me if this sounds obvious, but did you try to use the key in the lock, turning counterclockwise 1/8 turn, pushing slightly *down* on the trunklid while simultaneously pushing in the plunger? Then try to lift the trunklid.

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Robert W. Roe
1984 300SD 167K mi

Yes I did. Using the Master Key. As I mentioned,It raises about 1/8" as if it's going to open, all the sounds and clicking are right, then hangs up. If I could see a diagram of the locking mechanism, I could probably figure it out. It's like it got confused during the unlocking cycle.

Not sure how you'd get to the mechanism with the trunk being closed and locked.

You may have done this already but while pushing the button, pull firmly on the trunk lid. My wife jammed a cloth bag (she saves 3 cents at he grocery store) in the latch and it closed OK but acted exactly as you are describing when trying to open the trunk. I put a firm grip on it and it opened right up!!

If anybody has any ideas as to how the heck to get into the trunk from some other location I'd sure like to know other than with an acetelyn torch. Also, tried to turn key and lift up but to no avail. The key turns and the latch unlocks, I can hear it. It would be nice to find a solution as I don't think I am the first in the annuls of over 100 years of German automotive history to have this problem. And rest assured, you guys are going to have this problem at some point or another. HELP

I did e-mail this, but I have seen this where the diaphram fails in the dead bolt and the trunk will not open. I have had luck with striking the lock with a dead blow plastic hammer while pulling up. If not, UH OH.

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Benzmac:
1981 280GE SWB
1987 16V
ASE CERTIFIED MASTER AUTO TECHNICIAN
SERVICE MANAGER FOR 14 BAY FACILITY
MERCEDES SPECIALIST 8 YRS
PARTNER IN MERCEDESSHOP.COM

I think your right. Apparently there is a sliding rod that is part of the
locking system. Since when the lock button is pushed, the lid raises slightly,
but hangs up on the sliding rod. Also, there is no way to bypass this system.
Older models must have had the same problem as there use to be an emergency pull
ring under the back seat but not on my 86 model. What a *****. I'll try the
hammer route but I don't hold any hopes as, if it is the rod, its operation
seems to be activated by the vacuum circuit and if the linkage is damaged or
broke hammering on the lock button won't have much of an effect. Whats' the
"hard route" ?? A torch ???

I don't know if this applies in your situation, but...sometimes if you remove the upper section of the back seat, there is a fiberboard panel in the middle of the seat support sheetmetal than can be pushed into the trunk. Had a Volvo with this don't know about Mercedes, but it won't hurt to look. The kicker is the opening was a really tight fit for an adult, so if you do have one, you'll need a small adult (try Wal-Mart), or a really intelligent,mechanically inclined child to get in there. Seriously, if you can get 1/8 of an inch, try a piece of paper and see if you can feel if part of the locking mechanism is still engaged on the latch. If your paper will not pass the area of the lock, then you could try the old credit card in the door trick. A reasonably thick piece of plastic. You'll have to push and wiggle it around, but who knows, maybe you'll get lucky. Otherwise, you may have to get the lock cylinder either drilled or pulled out with a slide hammer. Either way, this doesn't sound like fun. Hope any of this helps you.

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Jeff L
1987 300e
1989 300e

Some of you may not know what the dead bolt is. W123 and the early w126 do not have the dead bolt. Since the lid is 1/8 open, I agree with Benzmac that the latch is clear but it is held up by a dead bolt. The dead bolt is located 2 or 3 inches to the left of the latch.

If it is the dead bolt that is causing the problem, I think, one can drill a small hole some where on top or behind the license plate and insert a pick or a small screw driver to move the dead bolt. Now, the problems are where exactly to drill and how to move the pick to unlock it. You will have to look at another 300SDL to find out. Maybe, after you look at another car, you decide this method is not doable. This is just my thought based on the methods used by locksmith opening safe and combination locks. I have never heard of any one using this method to open a trunk before. Dealer or locksmith may have other ways to open it. It is just my theory waiting to be tested (at your own risk). After it is successfully done, seal the small hole with proxy glue and touch up paint.

The fuel tank is behind the rear seat. I do not think it is possible to got into the trunk from there.

Wish you good luck.

David



[This message has been edited by be459 (edited 01-29-2000).]

Here is an idea that may work and not cost too much. If you can get the trunk a little open then why not slide a hacksaw blade in there and saw off the latch part(or maybe even get to it with a wrench, I think 3 screws hold it on), then you could open the trunk and replace the defective deadbolt and all you would have to to is get a new latch, sounds better than drilling a hole in the body(yikes). What do you think?

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Bart
1987 300SDL-T
1985 190E 2.3-16
1984 280GE Cabrio
1978 240D
1957 220S(running one day, I hope!)

This sounds like a good idea. Just remember, the dead bolt is usually off to one side and not the one in the middle..

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Benzmac:
1981 280GE SWB
1987 16V
ASE CERTIFIED MASTER AUTO TECHNICIAN
SERVICE MANAGER FOR 14 BAY FACILITY
MERCEDES SPECIALIST 8 YRS
PARTNER IN MERCEDESSHOP.COM

Going through the back seat not an option. MBZ puts the fuel tank their. I liked the credit card option untill I looked at another MBZ. The latch is inset into the trunk lip and so is the sliding bolt which is in fact, just to the left of the latch. The mating parts on the trunk lid are major fixed hunks of forged metal that engage the latch and sliding dead bolt when the trunk is slammed shut. No movable parts on the lid itself. Look at any MBZ trunk lock to see what I mean. "Engineered like no other car in the world" Boy ain't that the truth. Drilling sounds plausable but targeting the correct location is going to be tough. Giving some serious thought to giving the Dealership a wack at it. Last resort....

Alan, I've seen some locksmiths do some pretty incredible (and nondamaging) things with MB. Would suggest you make a few phone calls to root out who is the best. My Benz dealer introduced me to a great locksmith that solved a different (security) problem for me. Just my 2cents worth. Good luck! Usually if you can meet them somehwere on another job they won't charge you to take a look.

J.R.
1980 450SEL
1986 280GE

Clearly, the diaphram has a defect in it. This hole is excessively large for the amount and quality of vacuum normally available from the car's system to act on the diaphram sufficient to move the deadbolt. Perhaps if you apply more of a harder vacuum to the vacuum line running to the deadbolt you will be able to establish enough of a gradient across the diaphram to move the deadbolt.

One suggestion I have is to find someone in the HVAC business kind enough to indulge this sort of experimenting. HVAC people use vacuum pumps capable of pulling a reasonably hard vacuum (several Torr) at a flow rate of several liters per minute. Perhaps this would displace enough air from the vacuum side of the diaphram to move the deadbolt. Good luck.