1997 E320 MB Starts, then shuts down when put in reverse

[old]

My 97 e320 MB automatic starts but shuts down when put into reverse... and now when put into drive as well. Prior to this it was at times shaking when at a stoplight for a long period of time (it never shut down on me, but I was giving it gas the few times it did it so as not to stall out). It would start every time first thing in the morning, but sometimes later in the day it would take a few times of turning the key and putting my foot on the gas to get it going. I don't know if all of these are related but thought the more info the better. Any clues?

[MAVA]

Welcome to the forum,

Now, I will say have you pulled any codes? can you? Since you cannot move the car it is time to get physical..

The easiest thing is to look at the transmission computer, and I have a process I would take below. Now, it is possible this problem you are having is the result of a shorted part along the wiring of transmission. This transmission is an all electronic transmission, so the speculation could be you ran over something, and it got kicked-up cut the wiring into the transmission, or a shift solenoid shorted out(or opened). Their is a test process to test the solenoids for a resistance value.

Now the pressure regulating solenoid, and valve is the heart to this transmission. You lose this function you get nothing. You can lose a shift solenoid or over drive solenoid. You will get something. I find these 90's Mercedes cars are losing these solenoids. These solenoids may check-out with a ohm meter, but the solenoid may lose it's magnetic properties, and not work. The Pressure regulation solenoid is always oscillating between 1000 to 2000 cycles per minute, so it receives constant wear

Now, the last thing as anyone here will say. Is the fluid current(a few years old), transmission filter current? and do you have the testing dipstick to check the level?

A) I would disconnect the battery.

B) Open up the Computer Coffin

C) Un plug to two skinny black connectors on the computer module next to the one with fuses(that is the transmission computer)

D) Look at the connectors and the terminals. Are they shiny, or see traces of oil?

E) If you see oil, remove the transmission computer, and put it upside down on the connector end on a oil pan. The oil coming out is transmission fluid. Let it drain for a hour.

F) Open the module, The shell has a glue joint on each side at the center of the module holding the case to the main board. Just use a flat screw driver, and pry in between. It will pop when the glue joint breaks. You may need to use two screw drivers at the same time to remove the case.

G) you'll need to get some Spray contact cleaner, and paper towles to soak-up the oil. My take a dozen applications to clean by spraying and blot cleaning.

H) How does the board look like? Burned. The one part that fails is the can looking part on edge that is 1/4" diameter x 1/2". The part blisters from the bottom rubber, or the top of the can...

I'm arm-chairing it from my position, but all transmissions do not have a silver bullet for a single fix. They require patience, troubleshooting, and testing. If you do not want to do that, then you will pay through the nose...

I have some literature that may help you with testing, but it is too large to post here. Here is something to help..Let me know if you want the document, or throw in the towel and let someone else figure it out...

Best of luck,

Martin