NAKED ENGINE! (W124 Engine cover missing)
 

I just realized that my lower engine covering is mssing (1992 300E) and has been for at least a couple years.

Is this something I should replace, or is it just cosmetic?

According to the parts CD it's called an "Anti-noise Capsule" (part 5 in photo) which suggests a purpose, though the engine doesn't seem noisy. Unless it's for air noise at speed.

Also, are there really SIXTEEN screws and anchors (parts 14 and 17 in photo) to attach it? That's what comes up by default but I only see six holes in the photo.

Also, is the "Boot" (part 23 in the photo) part of the cover, and if so where does it attach?

Thanks much...

The shield does provide some coefficent of drag lowering properties and will take the hit from road debris. For roads with serious obstacles, I think MB also made a metal skid plate.

I bought my 300E at almost 80,000 miles and it was missing at that point. Although they are worthwhile to have in place, I have never chased one down and put on.

Had it been on the car when I bought it, I would have hung onto it and kept it in place.

Good luck,

Bought my 93 with 72K on it...those pieces don't look familiar to me at all! :confused:

I have US version '92 300E 2.6 and the boot cover/ plastic belly pan/ splash guard is indeed in place.

Based upon closer observation of the belly pan while it was off recently for cleaning:

>it does exhibit noticable scars from road warrior debris

>it does appear to have design channeling that may well aide in cooling (air flow) and under car aerodynamics

>it does appear to assist keeping the engine bay and lower engine compartment free of dirty/ grimy nasties you may encounter in day to day use

-fad

PS- my '94 E500 also has this belly pan

Thanks for the replies, sounds like a lot of engine nudity out there! Mine was bought at around 85K too, so the covers apparently die young.

I did notice on the parts CD that the original part is obsolete, maybe it had cracking problems or something. There is a new replacement part number.

fad, do you know if the "boot" material (part 23) is part of your shield? Does it slip over the front edge or something? Also do you recall how many screws are used to attach the cover?

My 91 300E has the part #5 and it is attached by the parts #14 and #17 in photo. There are six of each. The #14 is pushed into the subframe, like a clip really. Easy to do. The panel itself is sealed in the front by #23 which is really a rubber molding of sorts. It keeps air from catching the leading edge.

Why would you want this on your car in the first place? Because it does lower noise (originally installed to meet the tough Swiss noise standards) and it does have the benefit of improving airflow through your engine compartment. Some say it helps prevent heat rising and heat collection in the engine compartment by creating an encapsulation that moves the air specifically from the front of the car to exit area below the firewall. Here in N. California, the summers can get into the 100s. The 300E continues to amaze me in how well it handles the heat with the AC on AND how well this car is in terms of reliability- now with 210k miles. It makes me wonder if the lower panel does contribute to this by moving the hot air away from the engine compartment.

Almost every new car and truck now include this or similiar covers-shaving any aero drag yields improvement in MPGs. Yesterday evening I was helping a neighbor with her full-size Chevy pickup, a 2001 model I believe. She was loosing coolant and I looked under the truck in the front to see if there were any leaks. It also had this underside engine cover. I was amazed.

The panel does improve areodynamics of the underside of the car. Air running under the car buffets against tie-rods, cross members, oil pans etc. True that maybe more appreciated on the Autobahn at 100+ MPH speeds than here in the U.S.

Also, depending on where you live and what you drive through, it does keep road crap off components such as the alternator etc.

As a lot of people have reported, it isn't seemingly a critical part but if my car didn't have one, I'd put it on. Often the part #5 can be found at a junk yard for less than $50. The parts #14 and #17 and #23 can be order from a dealer for my guess, less than $30.

Hope this helps, keep us posted.
Haasman

Thanks again -- gotta love this forum! :) Guess I'll replace mine.

Haasman, I'm curious when you say lower noise, are you referring to engine noise? So is it quieter even at rest?

I'm just back from scooting around under my car and found a total of eight mounting holes -- four are along the front but two appear to have never been used. I'm missing anchors in a couple and the other anchors aren't looking good. So it sounds like six is the magic number. I didn't want to get too many as the CD lists a screw/anchor at $1.35 each. :eek:

According to the CD (a few years old), retail is about $15 total for the screws, anchors and 1 meter of boot material. The shield itself is $93.

A junk yard part isn't a good option for me as there are virtually no MBs near where I live. And I'd wonder how long a junkyard shield would last, given the experience of others here.

I'll check with Phil at PartShop to get actual quotes and post back here for those who might be interested.

Yes, quieter engine noise even at rest which to me is very quiet. The Swiss have been very strict on noise. There were major issues with diesels because of this.

If you decide to go the used parts way and need a junk yard recommendation, I have a friend who might be able to help. Email me.

Haasman

Also, this Friday evening I could take some pictures of the 300E and post them to see what it looks like.

It would have to be then because my daughter is using the camera until then. Let me know.

Haasman

Hassman, thanks but I've already ordered 'em. Phil at PartsShop echoed SP0CK's comment about the junk yards... he said they usually throw them out even if they do get them because they're nasty and dirty.

Here's the damage for those interested...

Those OE sheet metal screws in their fancy plastic bags sure are spendy.... I wonder how much an MB would cost to assembly if you ordered all the parts separately? :)

By the way, the reason I found out my shield was missing is because I was considering this Engine Diaper Kit... anybody tried it, or something similar?

Looks like all is handled- and Qs answered.

Mine does have boot (as you have ordered) and is attached with 4 (#8 or #9mm bolts)

the e500 has 6 mounting bolts as illustrated in your initial pic

best regards
-fad

Benzwood

BTW the engine diaper picture shows where the bolts go when attaching the panel.

Haasman

Engine Splash Pan
 

I have an '88 260e and a '92 300e 2.6 (like yours). Both cars have the spash pans still intact but for some reason MBZ did not make the oil drain plug accessible on the '92 design. Every time I change the oil in the car I have to take the splash pan off. I suspect this is why a lot of cars are missing the pans. I also suspect this is why a lot of owners are topsiding their oil changes.

My '88 model has a little cutout in the pan to access the oil drain plug and I wish the '92 had the same.

John

John,

why not compare the two and cut one out?

Haasman

Angry Swiss neighbors, obviously. :)

The Fumoto valve with the 'nipple' works well for this. You can attach a drain hose that runs past the shield, and leave it there.

Removing the shield is not that tough, but does require jacking up the front for decent access to the fasteners. The Fumoto is a great time saver in this regard. Anything to speed up a chore as frequent as oil changes pays big dividends over time.

https://ssl2.adhost.com/fumotovalve/...ics/N-Plug.gif

My '91 300E has a cover which is attached with four screws. I've been removing this thing for 12 years w/o jacking the car up. Before that, I was able to remove the cover on my '84 190D for 17 years w/o jacking the car up.

The 190D required that the front cover be installed because it provided a shield to keep air from tearing off the rear cover. The same thing with my 300E.

The cover protects the oil pan from damage. There has been more than one occasion that the cover has saved me from an expensive and inconvenient accident.

I can't believe anyone would discard these covers because they are too lazy to deal with them. If I can deal with them at my age and size, others shouldn't have an excuse not to:D

Ok, I admit one CAN remove the cover without jacking, but it is not a pleasant activity IMHO...

It isn't pleasant to get under the 300E w/o jacking it up but I'm a glutton for punishment:)

I still plan to make a hinged "trap door" for mine.. Should be fast, and easy... And useful..:D

Bet the quickie lube places always have a pile of them out back. Try getting one there!

jay3000

When you have complete the hinged "trap door" post how you have done it.

I have also thought about creating such a door. One consideration that I have pondered is enough area for the oil to pour out of without contacting the sides of the opening and creating a mess.

What would you use for the hinges and for a latch?

Keep us posted,

Haasman

I'm always amazed with what some people do. That includes taking a Mercedes to a Jiffy Lube :rolleyes:

BTW, the BMW E39 series has a trap door in the engine cover to permit draining oil. I suppose other models have it as well.

It's still in the thinking stages. I will have to REALLY take a look to see if it's practical, but I planned to use a couple of small brass hinges, and a small exterior cabinet latch (not sure how to describe it) that I have laying around from a boat.. You just squeeze the latch, and it opens...At first glance, it looked pretty easy..

LOL, csnow. :)

I too wonder about a cutout, it seems like it'd have to be pretty big, almost to the point of defeating the purpose.

The Fumato valve thing looks interesting, assuming it doesn't fail at an inopportune time. But you'd still have to be able to access the valve, wouldn't that require a hole in the shield as well

I've also thought about a topsider in the past, maybe I'll get one now. Comments on them seem to be split vehemently for and against, which means it's probably fine. :)

required that the front cover be installed because it provided a shield to keep air from tearing off the rear cover

Uh... there's a rear cover??

So I got the shipment from Partshop today, all prepared to revel in new-parts karma...

Note that the rubber boot comes with the shield, so you don't have to buy it separately, like I did. :(

Also note that there are only 4 holes on this cover. Hmm... well, there were two versions for my model year so I wasn't worried (other than buying a couple extra of those really expensive but nice socket head sheet metal screws :)). I bought the part specified for my VIN and Phil at PartsShop verified it.

Alas, when I went to put it on my car it doesn't fit. The rear will fit perfectly, the front will basically fit, but they won't both fit at the same time. The cover seems to be a half-inch or inch too long, in overall length and between the front/rear screw holes. If I were to cram it in there it'd be bowing out dramatically.

Looking on the parts CD some more, I noticed that the cover I received looks suspiciously like the front cover in this drawing... which is for a DIESEL engine. But the part number isn't the same.

Anybody have any ideas?

(I called Phil at parts shop but he's out early at the dentist, grr... he's supposed to be at our beck and call, not have a life! :))

Benzwood

Geesh, nothing more aggrivating than getting the wrong parts!

I looked at the image above, and then on the previous page and I do so that they are not the same. The "diaper" is much more like what is on the bottom of my 91 300E.

Want some good news? When you get the correct panel you will get to use all of those "really expensive but nice socket head sheet metal screws".


Haasman


Look at the diaper .....

Are you talking about your '91 300E? I'd think that should be the same as mine, and the parts CD lists them the same.

Here's the interesting bit from the CD:

Original part:

124 520 88 23 ANTINOISE CAPSULE

Replaced by:

124 520 41 24 ANTINOISE CAPSULE (up to ident #B 747339)
124 524 15 30 PANELLING (from ident #B 747340)

I'm not sure what the difference is, but my chassis # is less than 747339 so I got the first one. I would presume yours would be less than that too being a year earlier.

I got the correct part number shipped too, but it sure doesn't look like the drawing on the CD. Sometimes they don't exactly, but I dunno...

If you're under your car sometime I'd be curious to know the distance between the front and rear (or middle, in your case) screw holes. I don't think my front end is smashed in an inch, but... :)

The 91's vin number is: WDBEA30D7MB315572

It is available now but I will try and mesure for you and if possible send you a photo.

The front section with the "molding" does require a bit of snugging up against the front lower section spoiler.

Haasman

With that VIN our cars should take the same part according to the CD. Any measurements would be great!

I just measured mine... the distance on my car from front to middle holes is 50cm on both driver and passenger side. The distance on the part I received is 52cm.

The distance between the front two holes is 37cm and between the two middle holes is 48cm, both of which match the part.

So it's fine except for being 2cm too long.


Rear holes are not applicable to the part I have, but for comparison... the distance between middle and rear holes on my car is 42cm (drivers side) and 41cm (passenger side).

The distance between the two rear holes is 56cm.

My car doesn't have any screw anchors in the rear two holes, so I don't know if those holes were never used or if the anchors fell out at some point.

On a picture might make more sense... a part with these distances (cm) between holes is what I need for my car:


EDIT: Rear measurements are wrong... should be 31 and 32, not 41 and 42.

Well, Phil at PartsShop ran my VIN# past the dealer. The dealer confirmed that my part is correct, and said the front mounts were adjustable.

Something is amiss, because here is a photo of one of my front mounting brackets... there are two separate holes (circled in photo) to choose from to mount a screw anchor in, but that's a left-right adjustment, not front-back.

There is no way to adjust front-back unless your adjustment tool is a sledgehammer. The bracket is welded to the bumper frame. I considered the possibility that my bumper or just the brackets had been mashed rearward 2 cm in my car's previous life, but there are no signs that I can see of that, and if that were the case then I don't see how the bracket would align where it's attached to the radiator (though the radiator was replaced by the previous owner).

haasman, did you have a chance to take any measurements on your car, or does anyone else have an idea what's wrong here?

Still waiting to hear back from Phil/Partshop/MB dealer... thought I'd bump this to the top in a shameless attempt to get Haasman to measure his part for me. :)

Hey! Watch it! This is a family site...

First nudity, now this!

I just realized that my car is missing its cover!! There are still pieces of the cover under mu car, the previous owner must have sacrificed it. Now I see the reason why it is so easy to work under my cars engine, there no cover!!

Well at least my engine stays cooler!

Sorry for some reason I didn't subscribe ..... never the less here are the crude measurements for the 300E's pan. I had to do this quickly on my back in the 100F sunlight-

Front- mounting hole to mounting hole= 14.5"

Back- mounting hole to mounting hole= 19"

Front to back- mounting hole to mounting hole= 21.5"

The pan doesn't have the rear section so only front and rear mounting holes and bolts.

Haasman

LOL, csnow. :p

Thanks haasman! That's interesting... converting your measurements to cm it sounds like you have the same side-side as me, but your front-back is 54-55 cm to my 50 cm. And the part I received is 52 cm. So I don't have a winner either way.

Still waiting to hear back from Phil at PartsShop, I'll e-mail him again tomorrow.

For a minute there, I thought no one got my joke.
Happens to me all the time...

At long last... resolution to the saga.

Phil had the MB dealer send me a replacement "wrong" part, one for a later model, part 124 524 15 30. It is a 6-hole part as shown.

This part fit MUCH better, the middle and rear holes fit perfectly, and the front edge of the part fit behind the lower bumper cover (unlike previously), but the front holes STILL did not line up.

A side note: This part (unlike the previous) did not come with the rubber gasket attached. Luckily I had ordered the gasket separately before.

After much deliberation about what to do about the front holes from ignoring it (the middle screws probably would keep it from popping out) to drilling/tapping the mounting bracket for new screws (which I didn't want to do because then requires multiple tools to remove the cover)... I finally decided to do it "right" and relocate the anchor holes.

I fashioned little brackets to hold mounting anchors, and screwed the brackets onto existing mounting anchors... see photo.

The brackets were mounted with some other sheet metal screws and the official MB screws are what is accessible from outside. I also had to drill and paint relief holes in the original mounting brackets to allow the MB screw to poke through.

Ahh... clothed at last.

By the way, I have noticed absolutely no difference in engine or wind noise, doh!

But presumably there is some MPG improvement from better aerodynamics. Which should pay off in a couple decades.

And in the meantime I feel more complete. :)

Mine fell off tonight!
 

As i was driving home, I heard a scraping of plastic sound and looked underneath the front end. Sure enough, the engine cover was dangling off. It still so cold around here, I put my 94 E320 in the garage. I'll take it off tomorrow...damn, just another thing to mess with in this cold.

Mine is gone too!!!
 

After my last service I found mine was missing too. I confronted the shop and they denied removing it at this service but I know that they did it as it was there before because I had removed it and cleaned it. No one else has touched the car. They have lost a customer over it for sure. I will never deal with them again. I can't believe that they think they have to right to decide to remove something like that.

That shop is EuroImports in Scottsdale AZ. Just a warning to those in the Phoenix area.

NEVER WILL I USE THEM AGAIN!!!!!

I noticed this part because I recently found a part of black plastic panel hanging loose.

I looked underside about two months ago. Nothing was hanging loose.
I went to a shop one months ago for lubrication service.

But I have no evidence to decide who broke it.
It might be broken when the car went through uneven ground.

Where can I order this part?
 

[FONT=Comic Sans MS]124 520 41 24, Engine Cover Sheild, mine met the fate of a large piece of tire on 495 today, pulled the baby up on the sidewalk to remove the remains ..

I still have mine on my 300SE (w126) after almost 200,000, and aside from a large hole in the center, it's doing fine. Although I am quite sick of removing it every time I change my oil.

Clean is good
 

I am amazed how clean my motor is at 10-years old. I owned the car for 8 years and I never cleaned the engine compartment, but it is really very clean in there. I think it must have something to do with that cover under the motor and I think keeping the engine clean must contribute to the longevity of these cars.

It is so clean in there
http://forums.mbnz.org/gallery/pics/...00371734AM.jpg

Anyone know if my car had a cover? I have not seen a part # or any listed in a parts chart. The car is a 1990 420SEL.