How bout posting the name/address/phone of the powder coating outfit you are using.

For Engatwork,
 

Ask and you shall receive:

For the Exhaust manifold:

J&D Performance Coatings
(904) 879-1803
Callahan, Florida.

For the powder coating:

PowderTech Plus
(904) 269-1719
Orange Park, Florida

Update (again):
 

I just got the head back from the machine shop. It looks good. I will be installing it this P.M. Any final advice?
I did bite the bullet and purchase the sealer from MB $22 for 50 ml.:eek:
It better work!
Wish me luck!

First major problem!
 

I decided to change the guide rails. Now, I am stuck. I can not remove the the belt pulley since I do not have the the crakshaft/ring gear holding lock. Can I used something else? I do not want to break anything. I will post on a separate post for immediate answer.
This is job 03-3420 on the CD.

J. H.

I haven't looked up the service task you mentioned in your last post, so my reply my be useless, but if you're trying to loosen a pulley by turning a center bolt counter-clockwise, a strap wrench wrapped around the pulley might work.

Sears gets $10 - $20 for them - forget the exact price.

From the earlier posts about the $22 sealant, I'm guessing you'd prefer not to spend $100 or so for a one-time-use flywheel lock, but I'll offer a nickel's worth of free advise. When I did the same job on my 1986 (a full description elsewhere) I tried improvising wedging a piece of angle iron through the access hole. Ultimately it did work, but the forces are tremendous, and I busted a half moon out of the edge of the aluminum casing. I wish I'd spent the $100. The strap wrench is no-risk, but I don't think it will be strong enough. That puppy is reaaaaaaly torqued on there. The only way I would improvise is if you literally take the time to *fabricate* a tool. Don't just jam something in there.

Good luck.

Can you make a similar tool? Seems like you can use a block of wood and a big screwdriver. I don't know if it'll hold 300Nm putting it back, though.

Sixto
95 S420
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

Would this decision be based on some damage to the rail? After putting the pin back in, I noticed a small piece of the rail waving in the breeze at me. About 3/8" triangle. (bad picture after pulling it off the rest of the rail attached ) I re-installed the cover and plan to run it.

I might change my mind after hearing some feedback, but it does not appear to have the potential of making a material impact on the operation of the system.

This decision was influenced greatly by a suggestion that I pull the A/C condenser to get the 250ft/lb impact wrench in there to remove that bolt.

It seems like the guide is fed from the sprocket in a straight shot so there is no load on the guide at that point, just a chain sliding through. Besides, it looks like what broke is the plastic 'thing' that fits over the guide, not the guide itself. I can't imagine that the plastic 'thing' takes any load to begin with. It's easy to call from where I am. It all depends on your level of comfort... and what the techs say.

Sixto
95 S420
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

DON'T USE ANY ABRASIVES INCLUDING SCOTCH BRITE OR SCOTCH BRITE TYPE WHEELS TO CLEAN PISTON TOPS OR GASKET SURFACES!!!!!!!!

This abrasive will get in the engine and destroy it in short order. To get the carbon off simply use a hardwood stick or some such and scrape it off. To clean the head mating surface, use a scraper. What makes a great head surface scraper is a large mill file ground off at an angle on the end. Not ground to a point like a chisel, but simply ground on one edge.

Use a scraper very carefully to ensure that you don't gouge or slip into a cylinder wall.

The surface cleaning products that are sold for use in a drill should NEVER be used on internal engine parts. The grit from these things is as if you poured sand in your oil.

Good luck,

The bolt is out!
 

It took a breaker bar with a flat piece of metal wedge in there. 300Nm is a lot of force, I just hope I can put it back in with the same technique. Other than that, pretty straight forward.
I am cleaning all this parts before they go back in. Since the rails are out, I am going to get the head back on before the guides go back in and I also going to use the same sealer for the bottom and the top timing cover. Any problems with that? Tips?

That is the way I took it; does not seem to be under load unless the tensioner gives way, and then I have worse problems than the guide.

I am back from a long weekend out of town!
 

Today, Neumann came along and helped me put the head back on. I was expecting a lot of problems but, he took the front and took the rear of the head. I was surprised how easy it went back in. We went with 70Nm and 90 + 90 degrees. The Elring head gasket also had those figures in their instructions for torquing the head down. So...70 Nm it was.
We also put the intake and gasket back in place.
Tomorrow, I start reassembly of the front end of the engine. I do not want to rush it at this point.
Any tips?

Glad it's going good so far , one tip that you probably already know about is to make sure any rubber gasket contact surface is verrrrrrry clean , to ensure no leaks.I use rubbing alcohol on a Q-tip to clean the head surface where the cam cover sits . Good luck.

Question for Larry Bible...
 

I pretty much skipped the pistons except as you describe; a stick to knock the carbon off (except for #1, which i cleaned about the same as the top of the block.

For the block top, I started with a cup-shaped wirebrush on a cordless drill, and for the material remaining, I used a 3M synthetic pad (I am guessing it is polycarbonate) on the same drill. Definately not scotchbrite, and no listed grit level.

I did not see any fesable way to tape off the holes in the top of the block, and would like opinions on my proposed method to insure no particulate material will clog the radiator.

Sunday, I boiled a pair of panty hose, and determined they would not melt at 212º. I plan to put a double layer of these in the radiator intake hose and run the car for about 20 miles (until it reaches and maintains operating temp); then after it cools, remove the hose along with any captured particulate material.

Other than than causing some gossip at a small-town WalMart on Saturday night, does anyone see any reason why this will not work?

I keep finding additional subsystems which need attention, and seem to break one fastener on each (the last one was the snap ring which holds the coolant level sensor), but it looks like this weekend I will try out what has turned into a 20-30hr service.

By the way, can anyone identify the use for those copper washers that came in the gasket set?

I am done!
 

Looking back, it was not as hard of a job as I though it would be. However, when I was in the middle of it, I wanted to quit more than one time.
The valve job is not hard at all. If you also change the chain rails, that is another story...:eek:
Today, I took the car for a spin and to reach operating temperature to seal the head gasket. NO oil leaks...so far!
Only one main concern, there is one bolt on the right side of the lower front chain rail guide cover that would not tighten like the rest of them. I do not know if I stripped it or broke it. I left it alone. It has the now famous MB sealer around it. Only time would tell...
:rolleyes:
I will develop the pictures and see if I can post them here somehow.
;)

Blast from the past...
 

After a 300 mile trip, oil is leaking from the head gasket. I do not have the CD anymore so I can not remember the marking for TDC. Does anyone have the marking or job 01-4150? As soon as I get parts and some time, I will do the job and take pictures for the benefit of the forum...

01-4150 .pdf
 

Here ya go JH. Let me know if you need any other docs. G'luck with the job. ;)

Link

Thanks Paul.
 

I shall return...

I am still waiting for parts but,
 

I started to disassemble the engine for the head gasket exchange. I removed everything needed to lift the head, including the guide rail pin. However, I have not removed the head bolts yet. What I am doing different this time is that I am going to leave the exhaust manifold attached to the head. I am still debating if I should get a pulley in my garage or just lift the engine with two guys lefting the head with a breaker bar across the engine (like I did last time... The only thing I found wrong so far is a broken gasket (o ring) around the orange suppresor housing. I hope MB sells this separately. I am taking pictures which I will post when I am done. I can not find Loctite 5900 anywhere. I may have to buy the expensive (but excelent) MB sealant. I did not have any leaks from the upper timing cover after the previous head gasket exchange. I will update as I move along...

I managed it without a lift. I'm not a big or strong guy. But I was careful not to overstretch myself and got a mate to help me with removal and installation of the head. I also used two bits of nylon webbing so I could sling the head through the rear lifting eye and front water inlet.
In 2004 when I replaced the head gasket I had a sore back for a few days. This time (last week) I didn't have any aches.
Work smart! If I had a chain block or lift, I'd use it though! I kept the exhaust manifolds on this time. I found it easier to handle the head with them on.

(Update) Head is off...
 

So far so good. I am taking my time to complete the job because I have been busy with other projects and some family matters. However, the only change so far, from my original plan has been removing the front exhaust manifold. It was stuck to the exhaust pipe so I decided just to remove it before the removal of the head. The rear stayed in place. I am taking a lot of pictures which I will post when I am done. If everything falls into place, I will have some time this coming weekend and I should be completing the job then.

I am not completely done but,
 

here are some pictures...

Some more...
 

pictures...

More...
 

The famous guide rail pin and a "home made puller".

Some more...
 

pictures.

Great looking engine Hidalgo.

I also have mine off right now too :D
Got a thread a few down.

That thread in the timing chain had me baffled for a while until I used a bolt and sprocket to get it out. I messed up about 3 different sets of Torx keys that I had on the 3 bolts attached!! Finally got it out though.