I fix one thing and another one is ready, I am telling you if I didnt have this forum, I would sell this car.

But, I love Mercedes, what can I say, it saved my life once, driving from Germany to Prague. Long story... Any other car beside BMW, I think it would of been a disaster..

Anyway, here is a problem just discovered, I came home logged on the net and looking for answer from the wise one's.

I changed my thermostat and water ran down the thermostat hole, I stuck a hose in the resorvoir, while car running and flushed out more water. Water was puring from the T-stat housing. Water was sprinkling slightly around the engine..more like MIST.

I Installed the T-stat and refilled and wiped the engine.

ALSO, I opened the airfilter to inspect and put the cover back on.

I took the car for drive, 50 Miles.. no problem.

I think maybe the problem below has nothing to do with the above situation, I dont know it could be, that's why I am asking for suggestions.

After driving for 50 miles as mentioned above , I came home, then after 2 hours took the car for drive again HERE is the problem.


1. Car felt loss of acceleration when taking off from stop or around low speed.
2. Car seemed to give a LITTLE jerk.. (Transmission)
3. No loss of acceleration at high speed 40-50 mph ( I think)
4. car seemed to miss VERY VERY little, when I started FIRST at idle and park, it went away after few minutes.
5. NOW THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON, on display and on the side of the display.

Went to Autozone and they read the codes: 4 Codes
p0173
p0170
p0730
p0700

Codes, were reset, however, the loss of acceleration comes and goes.

I came home and pulled out the codes, and saw the following:

P0173 Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 2)
P0170 Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 1)
P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio
P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction

Now, I am stuck.
I think p0173 and p0170 could be many thing, but MOST cases it is MASS air sensor. Few cases Vacuum Leak.

A. HOW DO I CHECK VACCUM LEAK?

Now, what about the p0730 and p0700, again all 4 codes came at the same time.

Autozone reset the code, car has 1/2 tank of gas and the CAP is on tight.

No Check Engine Light since than, it has been 2 hours and I drove the car 15 miles and shut off the car and restarted 2 times, since the code reset. But the car still loses on acceleration, and rarely very minor jerk on the transmission.

Maybe changing air flow MASS will take care of all 4, but I am worried about the p0730, p0700.

Thanks in advance, Since,I have very little knowledge about the Mercedes, this forum has helped me out a lot.

Thanks in Advance.

I guess my out of town trip is off...

Here is an update, maybe this might help in solving the problem. I know someone has the answer to the 4 codes.

I went to the car and I was looking at MASS, I discovered the big 5-6 " Tube or whatever it is called (Air Filter to Intake Manifold) is disengaged from the part that is going back towards the engine intake 3-4 inches just before it makes a right turn.
------- Rear Engine intake Snug fit to the engine, But can be pulled
-------
l l
l l
l l <----tube DISENGAGED just touching it loosely no clamp no fit
l l end of the Mass sensor Clamped good
llll Mass Air sensor
l l Clamp and fited good
l l
-----
l l Air Filter box
-----
Below is the explanation:

So..from the Air filter to Mass it is snug fit with a clamps, the 2nd end Mass part is also connected well.

**Problem is, I dont know if this is the way it supposed to be.. but that part after MASS is just touching the other part which continues to the engine 3-4 inches before it make a right turn towards the intake is Loose nothing connecting the two it is just touching it, if you touch it you can see inside Both pieces have ARROW impression <---- pointing to the 2 tubes ----><-----.... . I think it should have some sort of clamp, I tried to put the rubber into the other piece to make a connection, but it wont go in.. **

**further down the engine where it connect to the engine, I noticed I can turn that piece, I dont know if there is also a clamp in the back of the engine. I can even pull it out. However, it is inside and a snug fit. But it can be pulled out by hand.**

If you take the engine MB LOGO plastic piece off you will see what i am talking about in the back rear intake manifold.

Any suggestion, before I head out to the dealer? And start changing MASS, p0173, p0170... and p0700 p0730 code (transmission)

Could all this be realted to the part not being connected for all 4 code, or this is just another seperate thing..


Thanks again.

If you look at the arrow I made top left, thats where it is seperated, rubber part meeting hard Plastic, no clamps no coupling, I dont know if it is missing anything or is supposed to go into the plastic..tried putting in th eplastic..wont go inside it. Just touching freely both pieces.

Attached Thumbnails

 

I had a real hard time understanding the posts, but the hose you talk about is broken and needs to be replaced. The clamp is not reusable and when apart it is broken.

It will definitely cause the P0170 and P0173 codes.

__________________
Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician

Thanks Steve and Inspector..
I know Steve, I was trying to pain the picture, sorry if I have confused you.

Anyway, I dont think this part is broken where there is seperation, reason is this, one side tube is Rubber and other sider is Hard Plastic.. I dont think they are going to MOLD the different material.

There aew maybe a clamp or a connector.. Going to the dealer and tell him Part #A1121410082 (Rubber Tube) is disengaged to the PLASTIC Tube. going towards the engine .what makes them 2 connect?

THANKS AGAIN.. Steve, I feel better on your comment..

NOW SHOULD I GO BUY AIR MASS, I have to order it today, for tommorow delivery??? I know I have to fix the leak, but I think MASS could be bad also, I am jumping the gun here..

Thanks
Will post further..

<
>>

I think it slips over the outside of the plastic intake tube, not inside..then there should be a clamp..OR...
If it has alignment arrows , it may also have to be turned to
insert the two together and then be turned til the arrows line up to lock it.. [ meaning there are lock tabs that have to be lined up before the two will mate correctly , then turned to lock...these may be inside and you can't see them]
What model is it ???

If the connection involved a plastic clamping ring then the fact it is apart menas it is BROKEN. If it has a metal worm gear clamp then it can be reassembled.

In all these posts there is no mention of model so I can't look the part up specifically but on many of the v6 and v8 applications the rubber accordian/flexible portion is manufacturered to the hard plastic with a plastic band that when broken is not replacable separately. If you can get the two pieces back together and sealed (I used duct tape on the first one I saw till I could get the new part which came assembled) I would clear the codes readapt and wait. If that hose was apart it makes the air mass meter useless as the air doesn't pass through it.

__________________
Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician

STEVE,
You are VERY correct about the assembly of the hose, I bought a new part #112-140-03-12 2014 List $74 My cost $48, this tube connects to Air intake Manifold comes around and connect to the rear part of the MASS. It was about 3 feet long.

I was confused as to how the rubber and plastic connects, as you mentioned, I took the old one out and inspected and I saw the black metal band, I guess they insert this rubber tube in and then put the band in with heat.

I decided to change the whole thing, it was an inexpensive part, also I bolted the tube to the engine. My old unit had the bolt missing.

Reset the code, and car runs perfect. I drove the car for 40 miles and no light. Yesterday without fixing this I resetted the code and light came on after 10 miles of driving.

I hope lights stays off, otherwise I may need Mass Sensor.

Steve.. in your post 2 back you mentioned the tranny code and you were CERTAIN this caused it. No one else could figure this out. THANKS

By the was Steve, you wrote in the earler post my problem was hard to understand the way I explained it. It was my fault. Also, I totally forgot to mention the make and model... (1998 W210)

Just a tip for someone who is reading this.. be careful when opening the air filter box. I have seen people bending and twisting, and inspect the connection.

I just thought of something.

Since the code came on mentioned earlier 170 173, and i fixed the tube and reset the code, I read somewhere the fuel trim bank need to be reset by the dealer...

Is this correct or it will automatical reset itself???

Thanks

It will eventually relearn itself. Sometimes if the correction is too great for the previous condition the problem when corrected will leave the car corrected the wrong way. This can sometimes set new codes before the thing relearns.

With your model, it will be mostly relearned in a 10 miles mixed city/highway mile drive. It will be totally relearned within anothe 10 miles. If no codes are set and it runs well forget about it.

__________________
Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician

Thanks again.

I hope it re learn quickly. I was just wondering if it is not set will it damage something. But you are saying it should learn itself with 20 miles of driving.

Thanks again. I feel lot better.

spoke too soon

This what happened.


Thanks for all of your input. I got a problem, please help if you can.

1. I changed the Air Intake hose as you know already from the forum above. I reset the code. Drove for 12 miles light stayed off, came home, then left home and drove for 7.6 miles so the total of 19.6 miles and the light came on again.

2. went to Auto zone had the code read, this time only 1 code as opposed to yesterday's 4 code. 1 code was p0107.

3. reset the code and drove for 24 miles, no check engine light.

I remember Steve telling me something within 20 miles it should reset (trim bank 1). Maybe the light came on within 20 miles earlier after replacing the tube is normal?

Or do you think, I should go ahead and order the MASS Sensor.

Car does have very Slight pickup from 0 mph to accelerate.

I will wait for your answer, than order MASS sensor if necessary.

Thanks a million, you all have been very helpful.

This is an update from my last post (above)

Drove 109 miles afternoon and night, Mixed driving, highway and local. LIGHT did Not come on.

It appears to drive normal. Based on your expertise, you think the light came on after fixing the intake tube was just mass was being reset?

When intake was apart light came on, Reset while broken, light came on within 20 miles.

When I changed the intake tube and drove for 19 miles Light came on.
Reset the light again (2nd time since fixing the tube) drove 109 miles no light. Is it fixed?

Thanks

I wouldn't worry about it if it now stays off. I looked up the code P0107 and it doesn't exist for M112 or M113 engines.

If the numbers were inverted and it really was a P0170 then the only way to analyze the problem is to see the adaptation numbers.

__________________
Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician