Changing Steering Damper on '95 C280

[David C Klasse]

Where to start, and end!? I need all the help I can get.

[MikeTangas]

Start under the car.

See the drag link? That's the long piece that basically connects the left and right front wheels. Coming off the drag link is a sideways shock, the other end is bolted to the front sub frame. I think the bolts at each end are 19mm bolts. Unbolt, remove old damper, place new damper in the slots and tighten the bolts. I couldn't find any torque values for the damper bolts, so I just torqued em to about 2 grunts to be sure they didn't come loose.

Finish by crawling out from under the car.

Much easier if you use a set of drive on ramps. Gives plenty of room to work, but not enough to swing a cat.

[David C Klasse]

Mike,
Thank you so much for the info. I am going to buy some ramps (have needed them for some time) tomorrow. I will change the oil while I am under there...
I will let you know how it goes.
Thanks again, I really appreciate it.

[MBenzNL]

Maybe you already answered this post, but...



The picture above is taken from the bottom side of my car. The black plate with the rusty scratches is the steel carter protection under my engine. The higher gray plate is the isolation plate under the transmission box. The steering damper is situated above the front side of the trans isolation plate. You need 2 wrenches #17...

greetingz,

[MikeTangas]

Mbenz,

Thanks for the reminder on the under plate. I forgot that David's probably still has one. I also remembered at work today that the bolts are 17mm, not 19's like I thought.

Ok, so add a couple minutes to the work time for removal and install of the under plate.

[David C Klasse]

I didn't even need to remove the undercarriage to get to it. But I did anyway to change the oil.
Well I was unsuccessful at both!!!
I bought ramps and all and was all ready, but I couldn't remove the damn bolts!! I must have tightened the oil plug bolt way too tight last time, and I could not get those bolts off for the steering damper if my life depended on it! I really hurt my leg in doing so also. I strained it right at my upper thigh, real minor, but it's so sore. ARGH! I sprayed some teflon on there, so I will try it again tonight. Wish me luck!!! If not, I will just have the mechanic do it tomorrow while I'm at work.

[MikeTangas]

Uhmmm David...

Greens, spinach, Wheaties.....a longer breaker bar.



Sometimes them ol bolts just get a tad stubborn. A shot of penetrating oil and an over night sit, should help on the steering damper bolts. As for the oil drain plug, be sure to replace that copper washer at every oil change. If you don't, or forget to install the washer, you stand a good chance of having the drain plug sieze to the pan. Try using a 6 point socket (to minimized the chance of rounding the head) and a long breaker, if that doesn't work you may have to use a little heat.

[David C Klasse]

I was cleaning out my trunk, and I cam across the tire lug nut remover tool (whatever it's called) and I thought it might fit for the damper bolts. Well it did, and I got the old one off and the new one on. But when I was driving up onto the ramps, they slid and boom my grill went into the gym thing that's in my garage. I pushed the thing forward about a foot, and it's HEAVY. But my car was fine!! So no worries, a real scare though.
Anyway, I went and drove the car after putting on the new damper, and it drove wonderfully. It is about 80% better. There is still a very slight vibration at about 60, but nothing to worry about. Good buy and VERY easy to change.
And BTW, I asked my mechanic, and he did balance the tires when he put the new ones on a few thousand miles ago.
As for the oil plug bolt, maybe that's why I have such a hard time getting it off?? I have only been able to change it once, every other time, I strip it and have to take it in for them to remove it and put a new one on.
Anyway, thanks a bunch for the help.

[jjrodger]

Interested to hear that changing the steering damper made so much difference. Would you mind explaining just how different it is?

I do a lot of driving on rough roads (very poorly maintained over here) which are covered with potholes and so on. I wonder whether I should have mine replaced, although I have no problems with my steering? How often should the steering damper be changed?

[David C Klasse]

I believe someone said it should be changed every 50 thousand miles, or 80 thousand kilometers.
As for the difference, vibration is down a noticeable amt (80% or so). Also, I have not yet really had the chance to drive it all that much to see how it does over potholes and the like, but I did go out tonight and it did seem smoother over bumps and such, not that much, but still smoother.
The old damper was worn and I could pull it and push it very easily, whereas the new one I had to put some effort into pushing and pulling it. It probably has never been changed on my car.
Definilty worth it. Only costs $25 dollars and super easy to replace; only 2 bolts. I suggest it.

[jjrodger]

David,

Thankls for the info. As my car is coming up to 50k miles I think I'll get it changed at the next service. I'd do it myself but it would invalidate my warranty. Still, don't think it'll cost much at the dealership and they've offered me a free service after leaving a spanner in the works last time!

[David C Klasse]

JJRodger,
Yes, definitly worth it for such a low price.
And what is a "spanner" ?? Do you mean a scanner?? They left one in your engine?

[jjrodger]

A wrench!

This was a 10 inch, chrome vandium ratchet extension. It was left sitting on top of the engine!!

I noticed when cleaning the car some 5 days after the service, as I wiped down the engine bay I dragged it out with my cloth. Worrying, especially as 24 hours earlier I had wound the car up to about 110mph. Imagine if that had fallen into the pulleys.

I've still got it; they can have it back when I get my free service.

[David C Klasse]

Oh My, yes that would have been terrible, I could only imagine!!! They risked your life and only give you a free service??!!! Just Kidding, atleast they give you that. Glad to hear nothing bad happened!! How did your car drive at 110 mph? I drove it at 120 the other day, and that was scary. I think 110 is perfect for high speed, SOMEWHAT safe driving for the C. Runs great at that speed though.

[jjrodger]

It's all right at 110. I've had it up to 120 and it was fine at that speed too. Really 100 is best for my car, it starts to run out of puff much above that. I've got the sports suspension which lowers the car by 20mm. This probably enhances high speed stability, too. I was on a very well made stretch of road on both occasions: that helps more than anything!

I know there is a top speed thread somewhere, but my best is an indicated 160 in an Audi A8 4.2 quattro; my dad's BMW 728 would do 145, his 996 is just getting started at 130 but he's quite precious about it, and my mum's SLK230 will do 140 with the roof down... The SLK is an unpleasant car at high speeds, it's handling is very pointy, perhaps because of the short wheelbase and wide track.

What's the S420 like? and what is your mum's Porsche?