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#1
12-30-2005, 09:52 AM
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How to read codes with LED on 95 140
I finally understood how to read/build the home-made check engine LED switch. Many thanks to JimF, Arthur Dalton, and others who posted. However, I am not able to get any reading from the LED switch. Here is what I did:
Connected pin 1 (-) Connected pin 3 (+) Connected pin 19 Turn on ignition Push switch for 3 sec The LED light would only turn on/off whenever I push the switch, there are no blinks. What did I do wrong? The car is a 95 S320 with 38 pin diagnostic connector. Jack 
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#3
12-30-2005, 11:37 AM
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You are doing the steps correctly. Make sure the ignition is not in the ACCESSORY position, it must be in the RUN position. In other words, all dash caution lights should be on. Are you sure your test pins are making good contact with the 38 pin connector? Are you sure you built the tester correctly?
__________________
1995 S600, 1 of 618 (sold) "Speed is just a question of money...how fast you wanna go?" LONG LIVE THE W140! Visit my Web Page at www.v12uberalles.com
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#4
12-30-2005, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
"J1" = Pin 3 --> +12V "J3" = Pin 1 --> Gnd "J2" = Pin 19 --> Diag Module connection. Is the ignition swtich set to "position 2"?? Try 'pushing' the sw for 5 - 6 secs
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#5
12-30-2005, 02:41 PM
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Thank you for the replies. I think the test pin have made contact, it is the same pin I used for the ground and 12v. Is there a spec for the wire thickness. I used some lite ga wires from computer (wires from CD player to sound card).
I tried it again: Key turn to number 2 position (all dash lights are on) Press the switch for 6 sec Test LED would turn on and off as I press the switch It acted that I am getting power to the test LED, but did not cycle to turn the LED to blink. Jack
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#7
12-31-2005, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
So far, we 'know' that the J1 to J3 paths is good since when you push the RS 'momentary' switch the LED lights. Now try this test: With the connections in place, take the "J2" end and touch it to GND; the LED should light. I have a feeling it won't??? If not, do some t/s to see what's wrong; 'fuse'???
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#8
12-31-2005, 09:09 PM
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It worked
Thank you for everyone's replies. I rebuilt the LED kit with 18GA themostate wires.
The problem was I did not know how it works, how to pess the light. This time, I hold the switch a little longer. I got 5 or 6 blinks (I am not sure), because on my third try, I only got one blinks. I will have to wait for the CE light to return. Based on JimF's fault table: 5 blinks is EGR inoperative (bad valve or plug tube) 6 blinks is idle speed control inoperative. I don't know what it mean, the car have little over 100k miles. It run perfect, the idle is good. Jack
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#9
12-31-2005, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
The "DTC" that could dent your new year is the "ISC Faulty", #6. If you want to see what MAY (probably) happen, read MENU#24 about the saga of my "ISC faulty" DTC. That's how the infamous ETA failure starts. Or the other corollary, equally as bad, is a bad wiring harness. Right now, just reset all of the codes and see what happens. The reset procedure is in MENU#2 in "Erasing DTC Memory". Last edited by JimF; 12-31-2005 at 10:06 PM.
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