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#1
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Going to change rotors, what else should I do since they're off?
I'm going to change the rotors soon and since they're going to be off is there anything that I should do in that area? Maybe bearings or something?
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1992 Mercedes-Benz 400E 2002 Mercedes-Benz ML500 |
#2
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On a 124 you won't get into the bearings when replacing the rotors. Unless you want to, of course.
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Steve Brotherton Continental Imports Gainesville FL Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1 33 years MB technician |
#3
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If it were my car, I would check the wheel bearing adjustment and pack if it hadn't been done in a while.
I always take the opportunity when in that area to look around carefully at the tie-rod ends, the ball joints, the control arm bushngs, the sway bar bushings, the steering dampener, the shocks and if possible the top strut (big rubber mount at the top). It goes without saying that I would of course check the pads and the pad sensors. Overall, this is one of those times where one can get up close and personal with the suspension and other parts. It is the opportunity to check for leaks, unusual wear items etc. It is also why some people will always remove the under tray and drain their oil instead of suctioning it out. Haasman
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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold '95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex '93 190E 2.6-Wrecked '91 300E-Went to Ex '65 911 Coupe (#302580) |
#4
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Im looking in on this thread from the uk. when you talk about rotors do you mean the discs
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#5
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Yes.
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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold '95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex '93 190E 2.6-Wrecked '91 300E-Went to Ex '65 911 Coupe (#302580) |
#6
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Here's all the stuff that I'm going to do:
1) Change oil and filter 2) Change rear diff. fluid 3) Change power steering fluid and filter 4) Change transmission fluid and filter, also in the torque converter 5) Change air filter 6) Change cabin filter 7) Change spark plugs (cap and rotors replaced recently) 8) Change brake fluid, pads, rotors, master cylinder 9) Change fuel filter 10) Adjust parking brake I will take a look at everything to make sure that it's all ok. I'll search on the bearings and see what to look for and how to work on them.
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1992 Mercedes-Benz 400E 2002 Mercedes-Benz ML500 |
#7
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Your car doesn't have a cabin filter.
They were only equipped on 1994-1995 W124's.
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Paul S. 2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior. 79,200 miles. 1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron". |
#8
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Quote:
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1992 Mercedes-Benz 400E 2002 Mercedes-Benz ML500 |
#9
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Quote:
I've never heard of a recirculating filter....
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Paul S. 2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior. 79,200 miles. 1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron". |
#10
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Quote:
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1992 Mercedes-Benz 400E 2002 Mercedes-Benz ML500 |
#11
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When changing the calipers the MB CD's say to replace the self locking bolts. I was reading another post and it was suggested that the bolts can be reused by cleaning them and putting loctite on them.
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1992 Mercedes-Benz 400E 2002 Mercedes-Benz ML500 |
#12
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It is recommended to use new bolts. The new ones have what is called micro-encapsulated beads of a material similiar to loctite.
I have been using Loctite on the old bolts after careful inspection and not finding any problems. I will replace the bolts the next pad change though, since they have been reused several times. Haasman
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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold '95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex '93 190E 2.6-Wrecked '91 300E-Went to Ex '65 911 Coupe (#302580) |
#13
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W123 had this factory "locktite" as well? Perhaps why I had so much grief getting the bolts off yesterday(to un-stick the parking brake adjuster, ugh)?
Not to question a Mercedes recomendation, but, replace the bolts? The ones on the 300D were substantial parts, I can't imagine a failure. I'd re-locktite them and pronounce it good I think. Something I'm missing?
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One more Radar Lover gone... 1982 VW Caddy diesel 406K 1.9L AAZ 1994 E320 195K |
#14
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Replacing rotors/discs
I've got a 400E and was faced with a $400.00 price to replace my rotors and I thought I'd see if I could do them myself and I stumbled on this website.
Can a fairly adept do-it-yourselfer with normal tools (such as me) replace the rotors? Any websites with instructions, etc.? Thanks a bunch, Bob |
#15
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OEM pads come with new bolts -- they are the ones that hold the sliding side to the pins and bushings, not the caliper mounting bolts. You don't have to remove the mounting bolts to change the rotor, just swing the caliper up out of the way. Very nice. You only have to remove one bolt per side -- sliding part then swings up out of the way to reveal pads.
Make sure you get the antirattle spring UNDER the caliper, not with one side sticking up through, they squeal and clank otherwise. Rotors are held on by lug bolts and a hex socket screw, so you only have to remove the screw to change them. They may (will) be stuck, though. Clean hub completely of rust and crud before installing new ones, make sure you get the cosmoline off the rotors, and use some antiseize between hub and rotor so that the next time the won't be rusted on. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
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