![]() |
|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
No heat during medium fan and high fan
For some reason, I have no heat in my 300 SEL when I put the blower on medium fan or high fan. I do get some kind of heat when the blower is on low fan. The tech replaced the “heat pump” and I told that there is now warm heat, but still not like it is supposed to. Any ideas?
Cold in NC, mattsuzie ![]() |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Most likely poor flow through the heater core, but the cause must be determined on site.
Check the coolant level -- low coolant will airlock the heater core. Also check to make sure the aux coolant pump is working to move coolant through the heater core -- if it's burned out, flow will be slow. A stuck monovalve will do the same thing, although they usually stick open. A bad CC unit may do this too, getting "stuck" on full AC. Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks. Coolant level good. A new heater pump was installed.
According to tech, pretty good heat now comes out of the "defrosters", but no heat still when touching the button for the other controls. The tech ordered another part that is to arrive today, do not know what part it is. I am not totally sure about the monovalve and the CC unit. Will update. Thanks again. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
The tech determined that it was the "heater core". Even after the new pump, the downstream does not heat up as much, only in the defrost mode.
So now I only have acceptable heat in the defrost mode. Heard it costs over a $1000 to put in a new heater core. |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Monovalve
$40 part, cheapest diagnosis there is...Not to mention that what you describe really sounds like a monovalve!
__________________
****************************** 1971 Porsche 911 Targa RSR rep. 1968 BMW R60/2 1981 BMW R80GS-PD, dual plugs, 1000cc jugs, 10 gal "Gaston" tank. 1982 BMW R80GS-PD, duplicate of above. 1988 Neoplan/Mercedes 40' Bus 2002 SLK32 AMG 2013 Smart Electric |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
he put in a new monovalve
the core is more like $120, but he said it is a day worth of labor because you have to take out the dashboard. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Yup, if the heater core is plugged, it isn't going to give you good heat at high fan speed.
However, if it gets hot in defrost and not other modes, it's probably the PBCU, not the heater core. Hot water has to go through the core to get heat in defrost, too! That doesn't mean the core is good, though -- if the outlet hose is still only warm in defrost, it's plugged, and it's a real pain to replace. Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
You are correct about the defrost mode, but the tech said that in defrost mode a valve opens a full 100% and inside air is recirculated.
With the control unit, when choosing the other options, a valve does not open the full 100% , but some value less, and air from the outside is utilized. Something like that. Therefore, heat in the defrost mode is very warm, but heat in the other modes are just ok warm. It apprears that the control is working, just not flow in the core. Thanks. |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|