I changed my rear shocks at 240K km (150k miles), the shocks were completely gone, press the old shock, it compresses but it takes forever to rebound, this can not be detected with the rebound test when shocks are in the car, I would definitely replace shock at that mileage.

I used Bilstein comforts. The sports are too firm for my taste. I think Bilstein makes the OEMs, no?

Anyway, my car did sit just a bit higher with the new shocks.

Not too hard a job.

I went with the comfort shocks as well and enjoy the ride.

OF COURSE THE SHOCKS WILL BE WEAK AT THIS MILEAGE! I should have been more clear. My four P's in the case of this car would be to disconnect a shock or two. That's the only way to test them.

In the old days on domestic cars, shocks didn't last long and they were cheap, so you just replaced them. A set of Bilstiens (OEM equivalent shocks) cost over $300 these days. For that reason I stand by my suggestion to diagnose before you just start throwing money at the car.

It absolutely amazes me that there are people that think that the diagnosis for one vehicle automatically applies to another.

Have a great day,

Tonight my car has hit the 179,000 mark! In my service records it shows that i have not had my shocks or struts replaced.. What will i notice in the ride of my car when i replace these parts? Is it possible that these parts are still in good working order after nealry 180k of driving??

I agree with Larry!

You really got to assess the suspension. My W123 was great except it had worn-out brake rod supports which is rare for a W123.

I know the end-links are $7-10 each and ussually don't last too long. But, I would either have a MB familar suspension person make a suggestion or rebuild most of it.

I've done complete re-works and replaced all the rubber parts and it does make a HUGE difference on a 10-15 year old car. But I'm not into just throwing money at it. You might get away really cheap=0)

Michael

Sachs made mine. A lot of people assume that Bilstein makes all the shocks for Mercedes and BMWs but not necessarily so.

Yep,

Not too many bright orange shocks under benzs... Just look. I think Finchle and Sachs was quite common. I put them on my W123 and they were fine after 100k miles. I figured 175,000 miles was pretty darn good for the orginals.


Micahel

How much of a job is it to do the struts aall around the car? does the whole brake assmbley have to come off the car? any special tools? Any little tips of not to do's? Also does the car need to be re aligned for any reason after the replacement?

I have recently gone thru your exact scenario on my 300E w/ 145 on the clock. Read thru the attched thread which highlights the HD Bilstein dilemma, installation etc.. I feel they are the best feeling strut out there, especially if you are comparing to a BMW. I also did Sportline Swaybars front/rear, and now the entire package is great. Not to stiff at all, just rigth. Good luck.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-performance-paddock/78393-struts-hds-do-they-really-raise-car.html?highlight=bilstein+hds

FQ

Can anyone list all suspension parts AND bushing that could be replaced that affect/improve ride? I have gone over all of my service history since I have owned the car at 44K and hardly none have been replaced. I have 158k on it now and would like to "freshen up" everthing all at once.

I would like to do this along with new shock/struts (Bilsteins or OEM?) and H&R springs (for lowering.)

Other parts that have been replaced are:

1/04 drag link (tie rod)
7/99 idle arm bushing and steering arm bushing
7/98 rt front wheel bearing was replaced but lft front was repacked only.

That is it.

I am also considering 500E front and rear swaybars.

For tires and wheels, its AMG monoblock II 17X7.5 ET 35 with Michelin 17/ 205/ 17s

But of course, if you experts have sone other suggestions for this set up please throw them in.

Thanks,


Duron

I would try asking a shop forum member called gsxr.

That guy has all the info on suspension info for W124's.

I think he also has charts on this stuff that will blow your mind.

duron,

Unless completely worn out to a point of rattling, no replacement suspension parts will have anything to do with ride except shocks. Even worn ball joints, control arm bushings, etc, if replaced will have no effect.

The 500E bars are QUITE stiff. The sportline bars and springs would accomplish the lowering and stiffening and are very well priced at your dealer. I have a list of all the part numbers if you would like it.

Since you are considering this, you need to know and make mental note of the shock differences. When you go to the shorter springs, you MUST use the correct shocks. The sportline shocks will work and also the Bilstien Sport shocks are designed for the shorter travel suspension. Don't use Bilstien heavy duty or comfort with the short springs. They are too long and not valved for the short travel.

One other recommendation. Don't mix bars. Use a front and rear pair that work well together. You REALLY need to pay attention to the rear bar you put on because it is a BIG job to snake it in. You have to disconnect the subframe mounts and lower the ENTIRE suspension to get the rear bar in place. Been there, done that. If you're not equipped to do this safely, pay to have it done. It would be dangerous without the right equipment.

Suginami,

When are you in Dallas this month. I hope to finish the project I'm working on this week and might be available to run over there the evening you're in town.

Have a great day,

I am arriving late in the evening on Monday, March 29.

I will be in meetings all day on Tuesday, and have that evening available for dinner.

We could invite others and meet at another steak house if you'd like.

Here's the thread where freestyler replaced all the bushings on his 124...


http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/49246-w124-getting-all-new-bushings-control-arms.html