Would you use STP to temporarily fix oil burning?
 

My car burns oil right now, quite a bit actually, like a quart every 500 miles or so in the city (lots and lots of stop & go, no non-stop stretches longer than a mile usually, no trip during school longer than 3 miles, lots of engine braking) because of worn valve seals. I have heard lots about putting STP Oil Treatment in an engine to cure this, but want to make sure that I wont hurt the engine first.

PLEASE DONT TELL ME TO GET THIS FIXED. I KNOW IT NEEDS IT, BUT I HAVE OTHER THINGS TO DO AND TO GET FIXED FIRST.

Like:

• New timing chain: current one 146k or so, replacement costs $~500 tax included.
• Entirely new exhaust system. Delivered phonebooks rurally and ripped off both mufflers, and screwed up the exhaust manifold. Needs everything from the manifold back to the rear bumper. Has reduced ground clearance from 5" to about 1.5" because of straight piping. $1000 to fix.
• A tune up. $120 or so.
• God only knows what else. Lets hope its cheap.

If you're burning oil, just put more oil in. STP won't mend the seals. You could try using the heaviest oil reccomended for your engine, but basically, you're not going to do much.

The old Jaguar XK engine had an official oil consumption of 100 miles per pint!

The regular blue-bottle STP Oil Treatment will not hurt your engine, and it will help to reduce oil consumption a little.

I run STP with every oil change and think its good stuff. Try getting a little on your fingers sometime and you'll see how slick it is - I credit it for giving me 350k miles on a GM 2.8-liter engine without any engine work, and still going.

Ken300D

What about some of the oils formulated for older engines? They are specifically advertised to swell the seals just a bit to reduce oil burning. This could buy you some time before you fix it permanently.

I once re-built an engine that had seen regular use of STP, what a mess:eek:

Short term may be okey and I think there is better stuff for reducing oil usage.

Have you checked the cost of replacing the valve guide seals? It usually is pretty inexpensive.

Even if it were to work, I would not risk screwing up the bottom end for the sake of not having to change the valve guide seals right now. It will create more problems for you in the long run.

While this is not a MB, an engine is an engine. I have been running Castrol high mileage 10w-30 in my Toyota for the past 10k miles. When I first got the car it would let out a nice cloud of blue smoke on start up because of worn valve seals. I switched to this oil thinking it a snake oil but it worked! No more blue smoke on start up and reduced oil consumption. I know they have this oil in 10W-40 and 20W-50 weights; I'd give it a try.

Hi-mi oils worth a try
 

I ran Valvoline 10w-40 hi-mi in my '83 Delta 88 winter beater (sold to a friend). It used maybe a 1 qt/3500 mi, but when I switched to the hi-mi oil, never used a drop --

My latest winter beater (Grand Marquis) uses 1qt/500 miles, but mainly due to bad valve cover gaskets.

I know it does smoke due to valve stem seals (typical 302), so after I redo the valve cover gaskets, I'll give the hi-mi oil and try.

Valvoline also has this high mileage oil and really works. Surprised me too.

I dont call the price of my first car inexpensive. Its about ~$600 with tax.:eek: :(

I use a diesel formula -- I read somewhere meeting certain diesel specifications (Caterpillar, I think) requires low consumption properties. I use Shell Rotella Dino 10/40.

I have also had good results with Lubro Moly Motor Oil Saver.

http://www.etyproducts.com/lm%202020%20-%20motor%20oil%20saver%20+%20pic.htm

Here at the FastLane:

Vehicle: 1983 Mercedes Benz 380SEL
Part: Valve Stem Seal Kit
2 per engine
Fits Engine: 028838-

A8069-26467 Valve Stem Seal Kit $9.40

Plus valve cover gaskets.

This is just the seals, not the guides, labor shouldn't be $580.

OR

I'll do it for $500

:D

I recommend you look into fixing it yourself if you are able. I understand you may not have the resources to fix your problem right now, but unfortunately there is no free lunch. As a DIY project, it will not be expensive.

If you care to keep the car for the long-term, then you should prioritize and fix the problem correctly when you are able to.

It is another story if your car is just temporary and you don't care about keeping it in perfect running order. If this is the case, throw whatever you want in there if you think it will fix the problem.

My mechanical opinion is that you may very well hurt the engine by putting an STP oil additive in. I think you are aware of this otherwise you would have not asked the question. If anyone could throw a bottle of magic into the engine and pronounce the problem resolved, there would be many mechanics unable to feed their families.

STP Oil Treatment or similar products such as Valvoline SynPower Oil Treatment, Maxlife Oil Treatment etc. should not cause any problem for your car. In fact, the 2 major ingredients in these oil additives are very well-known anti-wear and viscosity improver additives. The anti-wear additive is ZDDP (zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate) and the viscosity improver stuff is Olefin Paraffin.

Many oils have a low concentration of ZDDP to provide anti-wear protection, but the above-mentioned oil treatments have higher ZDDP doses. ZDDP is not only an excellent anti-wear additive, but also a very effective oxidation inhibitor. Olefin Paraffin helps to increase the oil viscosity index, which gives these oil treatment a thick consistency.

ZDDP is not crappy stuff like the disguised chlorinated paraffin molecules, or PTFE stuff used in other snake oil additives such as Duralube, Prolong, Zmax, Slick 50 etc. Under high temperature and stress, chloride ions will be created from chlorinated paraffin. As you know, chlorine is a halogen element (which means "salt-generating" by reacting with metals), so its chloride ions are extremely reactive and corrosive, especially in contact with engine metal.

One pitfall of ZDDP is that it is somewhat corrosive to silver alloy crankshaft bearings. However, I think all modern cars do not use silver alloy at all.

Also, I have had good experience with Valvoline Maxlife stuff, including Maxlife engine oil and Maxlife ATF Dexron III/Mercon.
They work like a charm, by dramatically reducing oil leaks and smooth out auto transmission shifts.

Eric

How could it damage the engine? Remember is it sold as an OIL ADDITIVE. Might work, might not. Damage is HIGHLY unlikely. If it were ruining engines ya think the company would pull it off the shelves? Gets mighty expensive replacing engines all the time cause your product ruined it.
FYI: STP = Stay Together Please!