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#1
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Help removing water pump pulley
I started the replacement for my belt tensioner following instructions from this forum. I've removed the fan shroud, fan/clutch and power steering pulley. Unfortunately I've gotten stuck at the water pump pulley removal.
I've removed the 3 13mm bolts from the front of the pulley. I then tried to tap off the pulley (as I did with the PS pulley) and it won't budge. I'm fearful of using too much force to remove the pulley for fear of damaging the pulley, bearings or shaft. Are there any other bolts to remove? Do I need to use a puller? Does it need to come off at all? Thanks in advance. 1987 300E |
#2
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Well I managed to get it done. After looking at a picture of a water pump I figured it out myself. Hope I don't have to do the tensioner for another 140,000 miles.
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#3
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You don't want to do the water pump either -- you are just about ready to find a way to get the four bolts out right now!
Took me 6 hours start to finish, including a tensioner and belt replacement. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#4
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Quote:
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'92 190E 1.8 |
#5
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I'm just curious. Why did you take off the water pump pulley?
Have a great day, |
#6
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If question above is for me then answer is my timing chain broke and I want to get the bits from the bottom of the chain cover cos crankshaft would not turn 360 degrees so assumed that bits are causing it to get stuck halfway. No sign of broken sprocket but I'll soon see when I get the chain cover off.
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'92 190E 1.8 Last edited by junar; 04-02-2004 at 08:00 AM. |
#7
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From what I recall the pulley was preventing access to the lower right hand bolt on the belt tensioner, preventing its removal. putting the pulleys back on and aligning things properly was another nightmare but now everyhting seems to be running good as new.
The only thing I'm worried about now is that, now that the rattling from the tensioner is gone, I can hear a whirring sound from the water pump. Hope its normal as the tensioner has been bad for a few years so I have no idea what the front end is supposed to sound like. From what I've read here failures to the water pump are pretty obvious as they leak when broken. I do have a slow coolant leak (about 500mL every 3000 miles, evaporation maybe?) Oh well I'll keep my fingers crossed. Next on my list of repairs: 1) Keyless entry 2) Climate Control Unit cleaning (Defrost button has to be pushed HARD to get it to work) 3) Cruise control (no function at all) 4) Passenger side visor (retainer at hinge has cracked, plastic piece with 2 screws) That should keep me busy for the summer. Man I love this car, pleasure to work on, pleasure to drive. All possible because of this forum! |
#8
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If the water pump is leaking, the coolant will drip off the oil pan about half way back, not from the pump itself.
Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#9
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Evaporation is not the cause of your coolant usage. MB coolant will leave a white residue where it's leaking. Carefully inspect around the engine and the auxiliary water pump for leaks.
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Fred Hoelzle |
#10
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There seems to be a white resisue in several places but that could be from the work I've done (changed thermostat, changed auxilliary water pump) I'm gonna clean up under the hood once the weather decides to warm up here in Toronto. I'll probably then be able to see the source of the leak.
A couple of the coolant hoses seem rather soft as they are approaching 9 years old now (all changed with a water pump at that time). I 've never noticed any leaks on the ground, so it must be a slow leak but with summer coming you can never be too careful. Sean |
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