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#1
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Dash out - Any suggestions?
I am changing the interior from Palomino to Black. I have the Dash (and everything else) removed from my 87 300SDL w/252k miles. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I should reaplace now while it is easier?
I have already replaced the ignition switch. Any ideas of how long those pink vacuum actuators for the vents should last? I saw that someone replaced their A/C expansion valve with some effort. Should I hit that one while I am in here? Thanks! |
#2
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Having replaced the heater core on the 190e this past summer, I know how much work you are doing!
---> Replace all the vacuum actuators <-- It would be a shame to have to do all that work again to after discovering one of the vacuum actuators started to leak. Haasman
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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold '95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex '93 190E 2.6-Wrecked '91 300E-Went to Ex '65 911 Coupe (#302580) |
#3
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There was info on this site that lead you to another site where a guy sold replacement diaphrams for the actuators for around $5-$10 each. I think that would be good insurance since you already have everything out.
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#4
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Yikes! That looks worse than the 124 when I had the dash out.
Both GSXR and I are thumbs down on the replacement diaphrams for rebuilding the vacuum actuators. Dave doesn't like them because the rebuilt actuator does not have the full range of movement. I don't like them because the pink plastic casing will be brittle and difficult to disassemble and reassemble without cracking. I tried rebuilding the actuators on my 124 and had problems with broken plastic tabs and the actuator bodies coming apart because the brittle plastic wouldn't hold together again. I recommend replacing all the actuators which require dash removal. Any that can be replaced with lesser effort - such as just pulling the glove box - can be left alone. Most likely all your two-stage actuators have the small lift diaphram failed. - JimY |
#5
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How about a new evaporator.
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1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi. |
#6
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Not much else...everyone else already mentioned specific climate control components that are deeply buried within! Don't know if you have a cabin filter, but go ahead and swap out for a new one.
I would check the soundness of electrical harnesses, relays, and grounding points...those are hard to trace when a problem occurs and you can only look at a portion of the circuitry when everything is assembled. Spray electrical contact cleaner on all fusible links upon reassembly. Look for any signs of corrosion or fluid leaks, either due to coolant, rainwater, or in the case of electrics, dirt and age. And stock up on LOTS of beer!
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2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle 2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car 2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver 2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car |
#7
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Quote:
Unless you're married to MY wife.
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2007 C 230 Sport. |
#8
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I would change the heater box elements and at least CLEAN the evap. 126 evaps aren't known to fail very often but they can get very dirty over time and reduce cooling capacity.
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Brian Toscano |
#9
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Are you sure you really want a black interior? It gets pretty hot in Virginia in the summer.
Oh, clean the dirt and dust out as well. Replace the blower motor? Where is that sucker anyway?
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Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. |
#10
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You don't want the generic replacement diaphrams!
You won't get full-travel on these cars using them. That comes from a friend that used G Murphy's replacement diaphrams in his W124. Yes, if the vacuum pods are original- I'd replace the ones which you cannot reach with the dash in... at least test them all for leaks. While difficult, I think you can reach most of them. Michael
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Michael McGuire 83 300d 01 vw A4 TDI 66 Chevy Corsa 68 GMC V6 w/oD 86 300E |
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